Prof_Finesser

Yea I know the wiring would be fine just want to use I got. This was my first built engine and it blowing got me beat down just want to have it running right again but hopefully I can find a non vct head so I don’t have to do any of this lol.

Is there something wrong with using tomei? I’ve heard the tomei usa are fake parts. Reason why I don’t want to make vct work is one gotta make a plug for the solenoid get the vct cam gear. I rather just use the stuff I already have. I made 450 on 17psi full boost at 4K. I’m satisfied with that it’s a street car and sometimes hit the track for drift. If I’m really wanting to decrease the lag I’ll go to a smaller rear housing as I have an extra or even cam gears.

I can use a rb25det HG that’s what was on it before and sealed fine. Yes I was gonna get it tuned again. For my springs I have a super tech kit on my non vct head I can use the retainers but I have to use different springs. As for the vct I don’t want it as i have rb20 tomei cams and are different I rather just delete it all together and not have to buy a new intake cam.

I forgot to ask as for deleting vct I’ll be plugging the solenoid but what about the vct feed from where the restrictor from the block would be. Weld the hole on the head shut? Or would it be fine just leaving it alone?

Yes still hydro and ok thanks for the information very helpful so I don’t have to source a new block and ok even if it doesn’t work I’ll just have the tuner change it to no iacv.

Hello again so I blew my motor long story short one of the cams journals wasn’t getting oil and the cam stopped rotating and jumped timing on exhaust side. It’s a built r32 rb25de+t non vct so my questions are. 1. Can a r33 rb25det s1 head work on my r32 rb25de non vct block I still want to use it because forged internals. My r32 rb25 head is toast and I can’t find anyone with one. 2. Will my non vct parts work on the vct head which are cam gears, gear back plate, front gear cover, cas, cas bracket, and cams (rb20 tomei 256 cams). I will be deleting the vct because I don’t feel like it lol also I reached my hp goal on the dyno before it blew. 3.Last question I know I’ll have to switch up my manifold and fuel rail because no vct head is very similar to rb20 and ik vct head is different but I want to make sure that tps, water sensors, and idle air control valve connectors will be the same. I’ve read tps and water sensors should be the same just don’t know about the idle air control. I don’t want to have to modify my harness.

Thanks dude you comment on a lot of my post I appreciate it. This was my first built engine so a lot of firsts for me.

Ok thanks and I’ll try to get better pics tomorrow.

So I got my engine tuned after a fresh rebuild and made 450 which is where it’s supposed to make but I took off the oil filter (after break in and dyno session) and it has a lot of metal in the filter there wasn’t very much metal on the drain plug. Just the normal fuzz black. Oil looked good no glittery stuff. But just want to see what y’all think If it’s normal and should I just run it and check it in the next oil change.

Looking for a non vct head the ones that came out of the r32gts25s not r33. I know s1 heads will fit and work but I don’t want to switch up my intake setup and valve springs setup. I will trade s1 head if you’d like. I’m located in the states California.

I have no idea honestly Im gonna call him tomorrow and see what he can do I have a rb25 S1 head that will work on my rb25de block but I dont want to switch up my intake and fuel system also having to buy new springs for the s1 head

no not yet we both thought maybe something got in the oil hole because the journal that went had zero oil in it all the others ex and in sides were good and oily hoping to have it repaired but i doubt it

RB25DE NON VCT CP PISTONS 9:1 TOMEI PON CAMS 256 8.50 ID 1050X TRUST TD06-20RX 10CM 450 WHP ON 17PSI HUB DYNO

Dropped off head at machine shop he told me probably going to need valves and a new head core. If anyone has a RB25de non vct head please let me know.

Combustion chambers look to be in good condition as well

So good news and bad head is off. Good news engine is turning again forwards continuously and pistons have very small mark on the top where valves hit it does catch a finger nail going to still ask machinist if it’s ok to run I think they will be ok. On to the bad I took the exhaust cam off because the exhaust valves where the only on the pistons and it seems like my first cam cap (closest to timing gear) was eating into the camshaft and end up stopping it all the valves have the marks in picture.

Yea I’ll let u know what happens hoping that I can still use my pistons and just rebuild the head

That was the first thing I checked lol thought it happened to me

Yea ima just take the head off tomorrow

I just realized something I’m at TDC and my intake cam is at the timing mark the horizontal mark and my exhaust cam is at like 7-8 o’clock position not even close to the timing mark. I’ve timed these engines about 5 times now and always do it the same line up the 3 marks crank and two cam. How tf have my cam spun that far off. I’m gonna check all the timing system tomorrow

Wont it not hold pressure during leak down though?

I think ur right cylinder 2 has some valve looking marks on the bore scope

Even with the starter it wouldn’t turn because when it first died I thought it was just a fling and tried starting it