Prof_Finesser

I just got back from the parts store and got a bore scope as well gonna check them out

Yes and that’s what I think as well and yes the rotation is continuous

Hello again I just got my rb25 tuned yesterday made 450 forged internals and semi built head I went on a beer run and let the car warm up before I got on it and I did a small pull and then about a minute later the engine shut off. I towed it back to the house and been tearing into it today. It’s odd I cant turn the engine by hand to the right (intake to exhaust side) it has some wiggle then it stops and won’t turn any more but I can turn it to the left no problem. I did a leak down and all cylinders were in good condition. I’m so lost at this point. I checked cams in case they snapped and they are all good too. I think I’m going to pull the head off tomorrow just to see what’s going on because I don’t understand.

yes finally get to start it up and get on dyno

ok found the issue I told them before I had the harness made that the car was originally auto I talked to WS today and they had asked if the car was auto before and I said yeah. The parking switch needed to be jumped with a wire I did and now it starts. Thank you guys for the info though.

Ok so I tested the fuse and it’s fine it’s reading 10.8v when key is at start position but the signal spade wire is where I believe the issues is I tested it like you guys said it reads a very now voltage about .15v and it gets that power after the key is turned to acc and on mode the voltage doesn’t change when I put it all the way to start mode. Gojjg to try and see what it goes to on the harness.

I talked to WS they said I could either have a charge cable connecting the alt to the starter or the alt to the fuse box which I have it. The two wires shown are one from the alt to starter and the other is the ring terminal from the harness that says starter power. Theres no power wire shown. I asked him he said there should be in power wire from the battery, the ring terminal from the harness, and then finally the signal spade connector I have it set up like that currently. I'm just gonna test all the stuff Duncan said and will get back to yall.

Ok thanks a lot ill check it all in a couple hours too hot right now. What about the the ring terminal on the harness what would that be for it just says signal on it. It is also is positive while the key in on mode right before start

ok ill check that for the 12v and the starter wont run if its connected to battery because it needs a signal? Im not sure what u mean and i dont have drive shaft hooked up ATM

Ok I checked the fuse it’s good but I’ll check the rest in the morning thanks for the info gonna hopefully figure this out tomorrow I wanted to do a first start on this built rb but gonna have to wait

Yea I checked it’s at 12v but I’m not sure what else I can check?

Ok will try that tomorrow morning but wouldn’t it have 12v all the time because it’s connected to the battery in my case

I used a screwdriver to power the starter and it works fine just won’t go from the key

theres the spade signal from the main harness and another eyelet connector that supposed to be on the starter post that comes also from the main harness and then the 12v power from battery aswell

Hello again I'm having an issue with the starter not wanting to crank I have a wiring Specialties harness for r32 and I believe I have it set up right I have the signal and power from the battery going to the single post and then the start spade connector. I made sure I had 12v on the starter post and it does and Im not sure what else to do. I turn the key the only thing I hear is the injectors and fuel pump. Any info is appreciated. I put the install guide link https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9F33_M_GgENUHJyMnpaRlk1Yzg

Hello I just wanted to see and ask has anyone used DNJ lifters in their engine I needed new lifters and didnt want to go solid and so I bought vg30dett lifters from partsology I do have then in my rb25 right now but I havent started it yet it is a new build that is very close to being done and I just wanted to ask before I starting running it. Parts list if wanted https://partsology.com/products/lash-lifters-infiniti-nissan-j30-300zx-pulsar-nx-87-97-1-6l-3-0l-lif630-4 CP piston manly rods super tech valve spring tomei japan poncams td06-20rx 10cm

The 20rx is on the way hopefully post some dyno sheets soon hoping to get on the dyno in December or January engine is still at machine shop

Ok thx for the info I think I’m going to go with the regular rear turbine on the 20rx with a 10cm housing and if i don’t like the response I might go to a 8cm I would like to run the 25g just cuz it says powered by trust on it but too much lag lol

Thanks for that but I’ve heard that there’s not really a difference on dyno with L2 I seen one where two identical rb20s and the graphs were basically the same as they were running the same psi and same turner

I know there’s a so many turbos that are better but I do like how the old td06s are and how they sound mainly and I’m really going towards the 25g many ppl still use them in Japan and love them

I have a built bottom end semi built head trying to decide between these two and don’t really see any info on the 20rx I’ve seen some videos on them but not really much info. I want to be in the low 400whp range and be responsive I’ve been looking at some dyno sheets for the 25g but I do want the 8cm rear for response and I can’t find any it’s all 10cm. I wanted to see if anyone has some info about the 20rx and could get me to my goals also if anyone has sheets or know if I could run a 25g 8cm and be in the low 400s if not how bad is the lag for 10cm. Ik there’s better turbos for the same price but I’m in it for the sound and td06s are a classic. hks 264 no vct (de block and head) 8.5:1 greddy mani

yea im in the states so finding a wrecked one is kinda hard

well thx for the info gonna start cutting and make it look nice as i can

I got a cube short shifter for my r32 rb20 and I tried to install it and my trans seems to be out of place when I put in the rb20 i thought it looked a bit odd but I paid no attention to it cuz I had the stock shifter. Is there a way to move the trans/engine back if I remember correctly when I was doing the swap the bolt holes seem to be just the right size so it wouldn't. In the cube shifter kit it has a that plate and it won't sit right. I know my car manual swapped not sure if that has to do anything with it. Not sure what cross member I have.

I'm in the states California to be exact my machinist is still looking them over to make sure they are good if they aren't I'll let u know.