Prof_Finesser

I was going to but I really don’t think I need that for 450hp

Idk I really do trust my current machinist he’s built Ryan litterals rb but besides that I ended up buying a rb25det head took the valves and sold the core to one of the machinist customers

Yea your right but my machinist told me that Nissan and most Hondas have very good valves and are better then some aftermarket I trust him cuz he builds a lot of high hp engines

Hello recently took off my head r32 rb25de before a first start because there was metal shavings still in the head. I had a shop machine the head and didn't do it right I had my machinist that I trust disassembled it and looked it over. He found that the other shop painted the insides of the head and did a valve job that doesn't even seal. So in short I need new OEM rb25det valves so he can machine them to seal cuz if he were to machine the current ones they would be too thin. Even if you only have one set Ex or IN Ill buy. They have to be oem not machined or ground.

This was my first skyline I used to have a e36 m3 and getting this engine I did have to do some research about a couple things but not too much.

yea I know most people don't really build these so.

this is what I also found earlier in the day

On the Kelford and other spring website it says rb25(with NVCS) and they specifically have springs for rb20/rb25de(nonVCT) I went with the super tech valve spring kit for rb20. I believe the ones on supertech are for rb25de are for r33 rb25s with vct

Hello I had pulled the head off the rb25de from an r32 to check if oil was getting to the head and my buddy told me that these heads tend to float valves around 400whp so I decided that since the head was off again to get upgraded valve springs. I've read on another post that it would take rb20 valve springs but can anyone confirm? I'm going to be going with the super tech valve spring kit with retainers. They have a kit for rb20 and 25.

I took off the head and turned it over an no oil was coming out so I drilled it out to 1.5mm with grease so no shaving got in I turned it over again and it was the same as the video then I took some compressed air and sprayed it down to hole to see if something was stuck and then turned it over again which is the video just wondering if this is enough oil for the head? IMG_2566.MOV

that's what I was thinking gonna prime it again tomorrow and if I don't see oil well guess I get the take the head off

I wanted to make this post before I start my new built rb25 I have turned over the engine for about 5min and made oil pressure in the first 30sec 5.8bar or around 80psi and I was happy but I had the valve covers off and no oil was coming to the head. I have a n1 oil pump and for the block the rear feed is blocked and the front feed is 1mm. I'm thinking of just starting it cuz the starter only turns the engine about 300rpm but I wanted to make this before I dried up my head and trashed it. thanks

I got to it today and bought some rubber washers and it fixed it I did check the continuity first Duncan thank you guys for the info I kinda learned a lot from this about electrical stuff thanks.

Wasn't able to get to it today also have some washers coming tomorrow will update tomorrow

I checked it today the one prong had power and one didn't so I think its fine there or if your saying to check the ground that comes off the alternator both had no power.

yea both of my washer are gone i will get some tomorrow and try the new fuse

oh yea I'm dumb. I'm getting another fuse tomorrow and will check it after work I looked at it rn and the positive to the alt was pretty loose and the ground was good not sure if the pos being loose will make the fuse blow or not. In the diagram everything looks whats on mine. I read another forum on my ALT there is not rubber piece on the pos terminal do you think its grounding on the ALT since it touching? In the other forum he said he just put a rubber washer and it fixed the issue.

Yes I know there is that one but it doesn’t really have info on the main fuse 75a which I believe is not on the 33.

Lol I’m trying all I can find is the ones u posted

I checked it rn and no power is going to the alt. Doesn't the main fuse send power to it?

Yea I seen the post but its for a 33 not a 32.

I was working on the car last night finishing up a battery relocation and when I flipped my breaker my dash and most of the interior power was gone. So I searched the fuse boxes and found that the main fuse blew so I thought it was just a blue moon type of deal. I bought another one and it blew. Does anyone know what that fuse powers besides the interior fuse box its a 75a grey and clear top. I've read some forums but not much info but some said about it grounding off the alternator so I'll put some pics of the wiring on the ALT. This is on a new built engine so it hasn't been ran yet I'm almost done and very close to starting.

no issues its just a new built engine and wanted to see if it was an issue or not before starting

Really? Ok I’m just new to the skyline stuff and turbo stuff just wanted to make sure this is ok. Thank you