R32RB20

thank you I'll pull it out later today and have a look

My Rb20det (r32 skyline) starts as soon as the key turns but it's running rough and has no power or acceleration especially when climbing hills. I notice the following symptoms: - rev limiting (fuel cut) @ approx. 3000rpm sometimes lower on higher gears - idle is steady - when afm is removed doesnt go past 2500rpm - in neutral only revs up to 4500rpm - strong smell of fuel from exhaust - no change to engine when removing 1 or 2 ignition plugs - got a code 21 error and sometimes the exhaust temp sensor light will flash briefly THINGS I'VE DONE TO RESOLVE THIS: - replaced fuel pump (Walbro 255) but its really noisy. - replaced filter filter - cleaned afm with brake cleaner - changed ignition coils to r35 (vr38dett) - as per above removed coil ignitor - flushed oil and radiator, but both are leaking - checked compression, avg. 225psi each cylinder - sonic cleaned all fuel injectors (fixed one leaking and one with bad spray pattern) - fuel pressure approx. 40psi (aka 3kg/cm3) - replaced iridium plugs with copper and gapped to 0.8mm all stock, except 3inch turbo back exhaust, and ignition coils/igniter Any help is appreciated. thank you

how did you go?

Thank you for posting a follow up with the fix it really helps others when they are having the same problems

This happened to me, Its an easy fix. The control switch you use to turn on the lights have metal 'tags' inside that switch between the options on your knob. those tags wear out and can easily short. I bit the bullet and bought another light switch. unfortunately i had to buy the whole surround to get that switch hahaha

If you 100% know there is air coming out of the cam cover or crankcase then yeah it could be a hairline crack anywhere on the top end. if you cant afford to replace the whole thing you could add smoke to your intake to trace the leak then just replace the part that's leaking. you never know if could just be a valve? just make sure you clean it up properly afterwards

Hi Patrick, the good news is the oil pressure is only a symptom of much greater issues you are having. Like the other guys have said, since you're ripping it out you may as well rebuild and get a proper tune. wishing you all the best with it. please feel free to regularly keep us updated

I agree with the front half cut, it the best of both worlds especially if youre low on space. and remember whatever you dont use you can try sell worst case to a metal recycler. definitely take the advice on funds, if you cant afford it better to stop, otherwise it will be in the garage for a while. and definitely make sure you get as much of the rear loom as possible make it a lot easier to connect all the sensors the ecu needs. if you have the time label them quickly as you disconnect them. either way good luck

Hey @ChrisW434 did you end up changing the decel fuel cut? did it work? make sure you post what worked for you, it may help other currently or in the future

Hey @SeanR32GtSt did you manage to get it loose? if not try insert a flat head into the top portion of the split and use another flat head to work your way around the plug. they're really tight because they have a water seal gasket all the way around. Cheers

Thanks I've had a look at a few, there not cheap either. The only thing that's confusing is some sites say they need programmable ecu and others don't for the same product. Yeah I'm in Oz, Sydney in fact

Thanks, this is exactly the innovation I was looking for. Is there a "bolt on" pack for this swap or do I need to get into creative wiring?

Just pulled out the engine coil valley cover and had a brief test of the ignition cables. I found that the 3 rear (closer to the windshield) ignition cables didn't make a difference when pulled out as opposed to the outside (closer to the headlights) 3 ignition cables which made the car shakes more and nearly stop. My guess is either the ignition cables or distributor are faulty? How do i test the distributor? Further how do I know it's not the coil pack or spark plug?

Hi all, Are there any newer ignitor/distributors that we can use on an rb20det? I know we can get the original but the newer ones looks similar was wondering if anyone had given it a shot?

Haven't tested fuel pressure yet as I'm waiting for a fuel pressure kit to arrive. However I have further information which may help: 1. New Walbro fuel pump has a really loud whining, which wasn't present on the old pump (before it failed) 2. Exhuast smells rich

Where do I test fuel pressure from? The fuel filter?

Ok thanks

It rumbles like a boxer engine, the car shakes and on acceleration it initially struggles but then builds rpm consistently (all the while "rumbling")

My fuel pump died so i swapped for exact same model (Walbro 255). A few minutes after running new fuel pump my engine (RB20) suddenly started acting rough. After cycling on and off a few times the roughness is still there. I couldn't find anything related on the forum. If you have any ideas please throw them my way. Thank you ☺️

Hi I need your help. I just changed the fuel pump in my R32 rb20det, and took it for a drive. It was responding very well and then all of a sudden a few minutes into the drive it started to rumble. It pretty much sounds like a boxer engine now and the car shakes slightly. I need some ideas or areas of focus because I'm currently freaking out

Thank you ☺️

Ok sweet. I haven't owned the car nearly as long as you so I will take your advice thank you @GTSBoy @joshuaho96

Found it here: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259200-r32-indicator-flasher-relay/

Agree the stock rod will outlast the gas struts, but I've read elsewhere they are not very secure and can pop out if slightly nudged

Did you end up finding one? Or using an alternative?