IXMandalorianXI

Hello all, Need some major help, doing a ton of research this weekend, and hoping someone can help me. Situation: Today I was flushing my brakes with denatured alcohol to remove Silicone DOT 5 with intent to replace it with Glycol DOT 4. I was using a pressure bleeder to one-man bleed. I have GT-R Brembo brakes with the two bleeder valves on top. The bleed started off well. I bled both the rear calipers without much trouble and pushed out the old brake fluid until only alcohol was coming out. However, when I went to bleed my front-passenger caliper, I got nothing, no fluid. To make matter worse, my pressure bleeder just stopped working and would not hold pressure. I borrowed a compressed air vacuum bleeder from the shop and tried that, but sttill nothing. My passenger-front caliper will not bleed. no fluid, nothing. I tried with the vacuum bleeder, and only managed to extract the fluid that was in the caliper. After that, nothing. I tried with the two-person bleed method, still nothing. The other three calipers will bleed, but this one will not. Additionally, there appears to be no pressure building up in the brake pedal. Even when starting the car. We can get a small amount of pressure, but not very much. Any advice? And thoughts? Any experience? I'm going through forum posts and YouTube videos. Im at a dead-end right now. Could it be air trapped in the ABS? Could it be a problem with the master cylinder? Thank you in advance.

New rotors and pads have arrived! Just bought a bleeding pressure system, some denatured alcohol, some cheap DOT 4 to flush and some high quality DOT 4 for the final fill. Got a 4-day weekend this weekend and access to a lift. This thread took me from being extremely nervous and willing to pay someone to do this for me to feeling confident in doing this correctly myself. Thank you everyone for the advice and information!

UPDATE: Did some googling and turns out these pressure kits with (mostly) universal caps are easy enough to find online. This looks like a simple enough process, just need patience and to take my time to do it right. In the long run, I'd rather have DOT 4 in here than DOT 5, I think.

Many thanks for the detailed instructions! As far as I know, the r33 doesn't have ABS, so that should simplify things a bit. What do you use to pump pressure into the system? Just a pump with an adapter cap for the reservoir?

Thank you! That puts me much more at ease and I feel a bit more confident making my purchase. I'm really unsure. On the one hand, this stuff isn't purple (see picture), the factory cap says to use DOT 3, and upon messaging the previous owner, he "thinks" but does not for sure remember putting DOT 4 in. On the other hand, the extracted brake fluid does not mix with water (see picture), and at the suggestion of another forum post, I rubbed some of the extracted fluid between my thumb and finger, the extracted stuff felt slick (which I was told indicates silicone), DOT 4 by comparison does not (has a grainy feel to it). I have also read that DOT 5 can change color to yellowish over time. I keep wanting to second guess myself, because as you have said, it's rare to find silicone-based brake fluid out in the wild, but the more I think on it, the more I think DOT 5 is what I have. I agree, and that makes sense, my concern, is what happens if I have silicone in my system and want to replace it with glycol. I read that an alcohol flush does the trick, but others have said that you have to replace every hose, the master cylinder, etc, etc, every part, because if any remnant of silicone remains, it can destroy your braking system. I am fairly confident they are GT-R Brembos, as they were listed as such when I purchased the car, but regardless I agree it's a good idea to do some measurements before I commit.

Hello all, I have a 1996 Skyline r33 GTS-T. This question is a two-parter. Firstly, and more simply, my r33 has GT-R Brembo Brakes. I am buying new pads and rotors. Can I correctly assume that any GTR-Brake/Rotor that was originally compatible with the r33 is going to be the same shape/size, regardless of the model? By that I mean, without knowing exactly what GT-R model these Brembo brakes came from, I can safely buy r33 GT-R sized brake pads and rotors and should be fairly safe in them fitting correctly? My second question is a bit more complex. I do not know if the previous owner put in Glycol-based brake fluid (DOT 4) or Silicone-based brake fluid (DOT 5). I did a test, by extracting some fluid from the reservoir and adding water. The brake fluid and water DID NOT mix, implying it is Silicone-based, but also the brake-fluid isn't purple, which is really throwing me for a loop. So, to be absolutely safe, I've decided instead just carry out a full fluid flush and replace with Glycol-based, especially since I am putting new pads and rotors on anyways. However, I am uncertain as to what the best method would be. I have read that I should use denatured alcohol (methylated spirits) to push the original brake fluid out, then use cheap DOT 3 to flush the system, then put in my proper high quality DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 brake fluid of choice. Is this correct? I've never done this before and want to make sure this is a proper method. I've also read that I should use compressed air to fully flush out the denatured alcohol, but I'm sure I understand how that works? Would I just hook up an air compressor pump to the brake fluid reservoir and open all the bleeder valves? I appreciate any/all advice, links and sources, and information you can provide. Thank you

Oh, after some googling and rereading, you meant subframe bushing, not that the subframe itself was making noises. That makes more sense.

Thank you for the reply and information! The car has been well take care of best I can tell. Only 52,000 miles, a fresh paint job and receipts and paper trails for a lot of mods and inspection passes. Could you elaborate on "subframe clinking?" That sounds rather worrisome. Bushings less so and makes sense. Whiteline is a company I know well and will def look at their kit. Thank you. It looks like the last owner used Fuchs Titan Race Pro R 15W-50 full Synthetic. The UK can be really cold or really warm. I figured an all season oil would be a safe bet. The car seems pretty much full bolt on plus an upgraded turbo, clutch, coilpacks, coilovers, all tuned on a G4+. Seems to have been done properly. It really was a unique find. Last owner had to trade in for a family car Ive been told. Not much I want to mod beside quality of life, mostly maintain and restoration.

Hello all, I've just bought myself a previously modified/tuned 1996 Skyline r33 GTS-T and I'm already loving this car. I come from the Subaru WRX world so my knowlege on these engines is nonexistent. However, I've been told this forum is *the* place to go for information on these cars. Good news is I already have a tuner (the same tuner who originally tuned this car a few years ago) and at least a general idea of how turbo cars work, haha. First thing I want to do it change all the fluids and filters. I'm searching these forums and online, but looks like Mahle Knecht or Mann are both good oil filters and Im happy to see Motul be highly recommended for oil as that was my goto with the Subaru. It looks like 10w-30 is a safe bet, but I see other suggestions floating around too so Im not sure what weight to go with. I figure I cant go wrong with genuine Nissan coolant. The transmission fluid was changed a year and a half ago, but I'd feel better swapping it out and same with a full brake fluid flush likely motul on both if available. She def needs some work. Some boot rust to tackle before it gets bad, some weird clunking probably from the suspension, and some mystery switches that I think mess with the turbo or tune. Any other advice or "check this" or "make sure this is good" before I get too deep into this car is appreciated. She is going to the tuner first thing this week for a full checkup.