Wazmond

Horrible choice of text color...

Apologies... thought i had outlined it... Cheers for the response, I'll get a nipple sorted out for this.

I noticed theres piping between the A/C and the stock intake piping(just before the crossover). What has people done for this? Should i be creating a nipple for the pipe?

Apologies, while id like to put the MAF as close to the TB and relocate the recirc, this may be too much work. Will most likely end up just putting it on the original AFM spot ( onto/next to the airbox ). Was going through nistune, found a pretty nifty doc on this. Nistune MAF Notes. Also, i was looking through the bay, and there seems to be a tube/line connected from the A/C to the intercooler piping ( Between the smic and the recirc), what does this do as the crossover fmic piping doesnt have any connection? plumbing? not sure what you call it but the nipple thing ahah. Also, been reading up more about crossover fmic in regards to the legality of having the hole drilled for the piping, this would most likely need to be engineered right?

Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?

So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right? Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?

@Dose Pipe Sutututu I read your replies RE: R35 GTR MAFs, any ideal spots to put on? Obviously will need the adapter plate. Will be having a cross over intercooler fitted shortly, would putting it a bit before the TB be okay?

A question for tuning awd, is it possible to disable the AWD? The stagea is an EA/T AWD, Toshi had said on a GTR, he was able to disable it and make it 2wd. Just wanted to double check if this was possible

Was planning on getting an R35 MAF and the adapter, should this be okay? Also any idea where I could get my hands on an intake pipe?

Update 24/01/2025: Bought a GReddy/Trust Intercooler (crossflow spec-LS) that was meant for a R33 GTST $871 AUD shipped, and a GReddy Profec boost controller $483 AUD, both brand new from Japan. Being honest, I would've thought the intercooler kit was discontinued but I guess not yet. Decided due to funds + time, I'll stick with a nistune on this stock-ish setup ( stock turbo set to probably 10-12psi ) and have it run cleaner ( suspect the 3" turbo back etc has sh*tted on my economy ) for my trip down south soon for the WSBK. Hopefully I can get it all installed and tuned by then. As for who I am getting it tuned with, I will be going with Toshi, (not hearing back from DVS so scratch that). There is also Birrong Auto but not sure if they do nistune installations and if they even tune it... Otherwise, anyone know where I can get my hands on an aluminium intake/suction pipe for an RB25DET NEO?

Just a thought, but instead of restricting, is it possible to do like an "up for review" kind of thing? Where say someone who's not an admin/mod tags, it would require approval for it to actually tag? User posts with a 'tag' > Admin/Mod Reviews > Approves tag > Tag now exists kinda thing? Just came across this thread so Im not too sure if Im straying off topic or not but forgive me if i am...

What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice? Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?

Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?

Hey lads, reviving an old thread. As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm). The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in. Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads

Remember seeing a R32 GTR ( or could be GTS-T ) parked collecting dust near Yokohama. was parked there the whole time I was in Japan for ( 1.5years ), and looking at maps, still there... Wonder if the owner wouldve sold it, if an offer had been made....

not a gtr though, a ford falcon wagon, but had a light metal rattle sound on light throttle aswell, sounded like it was coming from the motor/trans. Turned out to be the starter not retracting back properly and just freeplaying. Could be it? May not. Just thought i'd share.

I got tools but nothing special, your typical <100 piece toolset ahaha Though, I've never touched CV's before, and dont want to f*ck it up either... I've never taken my car to a shop before (I usually do everything myself or ask the ole man for help) so appreciate the advice on that, will probably stay away even more now. Regardless, any recommendations? Planning on going to the suspension shop in Rydalmere sometime soon after fitting the coilovers & cv's too for a good alignment.

Hey lads, going to be removing the front CV's from the stagea (1999, series 2 rs4 auto), as the inner boots are shot on both, and since I'll be replacing the coilovers to a new/ish set of bilsteins, thank you SK, might as well do this too while I'm at it. Ive left this for way too long, atleast a year now, but no sounds yet so I think the joint is still okay. Anyhows, I am looking for a decent shop in Sydney who is decent, and wont charge an arm and a leg for it. Any recommendations? cheers TIA

So everytime the car is changing momentum, say you were going forward, and then you brake, itll do the creaking and then wont happen when you brake again while still going forward. but once you put it into reverse and then you brake itll creak, but wont creak any more after while still reversing. And then again, when you go back to forward and the first time you brake, itll creak. ( note will only happen the first time you brake when traveling a direction ). Wont happen, when youre going up speed bumps or hitting a pothole etc. Sound comes from Front left area. I'm unsure as to what might be causing this sound so if anyone has any suggestions please. Ive got a set of R34 GTT brakes that I will be installing soon too. (and disregard the gutter rashes, from previous owner(s)... ) Otherwise, it has a shot set of Tein Coilovers, original bushings except poly on tension rods. Car has 138k kms. Video reference :

Hey man, instead of www.skylinesaustralia.com/blah blah change the domain to sau.com.au/blah blah and it should work

Im in Sydney, if the price and the condition is right, I'll be open to travel a fair bit. Thanks

Suspension really is complicated.... All these considerations are making me over think it all. Again. I reckon I'll wait for SK's response on his coilovers, and go from there. Though if I go MCA, I'll have to decide on whether the extra $600 (voston comforts $1890, mca pro comfort is $2490) is worth it. Just something soft and comfy, yet firm enough when required at the track or a casual old pac drive for a pie... Otherwise, anyone have experience with SuperPro bushings? Needing to replace the bushings on the suspension department... Will probably keep the oem uppercontrol arms etc, and just replace the bushings.

Yeah, they mentioned that its not worth upgrading from the stock sway bar due to how their coilovers are set up. Still learning more about the suspension etc, but with Garys approach of lower spring rates and controlling roll with bars and obviously improved dampers, wouldnt that be like softer ride and more roll but with the sway bar, it keeps the roll to a minimum/lower amount? Where as MCA's approach of stronger springs, and dampers adjusted for the springs, wouldnt that be a harder ride (against bumps, going straight etc) and less roll, and the stock sway bar does its thing but the coilovers does the majority of the work? Its a daily so im in favor of a softer ride while normally driving but keeping the roll to a minimum while turning etc. Or am I getting my idea of suspension completely wrong? I was looking at the Pro Comfort, it has the price hike of it being the MCA Pro series ( extra $400, total $2490 ). Ive read people saying the blue/red/gold series(and the blues being more favorable from the past threads) but what would those be nowadays? What was the drive difference between the BC golds and the MCA Blues you got?

Would they fit the series 2 awd auto? Assuming theyre still in decent shape, how much are you asking for (including fronts)? Not in a rush to get them as im using the TEINS they came with, just a rough ride. Yeah, considering I cant afford a very nice set of coilovers, im thinkin Voston Comforts (Sent MCA an email, and theyre saying Voston Sports though but 13/8KG I reckon would be too stiff). In that price range, was considering the BC-BR RS( rubber mount, not pillowball). not sure of spring rates yet, but my thoughts so far.