Wazmond

not a gtr though, a ford falcon wagon, but had a light metal rattle sound on light throttle aswell, sounded like it was coming from the motor/trans. Turned out to be the starter not retracting back properly and just freeplaying. Could be it? May not. Just thought i'd share.

I got tools but nothing special, your typical <100 piece toolset ahaha Though, I've never touched CV's before, and dont want to f*ck it up either... I've never taken my car to a shop before (I usually do everything myself or ask the ole man for help) so appreciate the advice on that, will probably stay away even more now. Regardless, any recommendations? Planning on going to the suspension shop in Rydalmere sometime soon after fitting the coilovers & cv's too for a good alignment.

Hey lads, going to be removing the front CV's from the stagea (1999, series 2 rs4 auto), as the inner boots are shot on both, and since I'll be replacing the coilovers to a new/ish set of bilsteins, thank you SK, might as well do this too while I'm at it. Ive left this for way too long, atleast a year now, but no sounds yet so I think the joint is still okay. Anyhows, I am looking for a decent shop in Sydney who is decent, and wont charge an arm and a leg for it. Any recommendations? cheers TIA

So everytime the car is changing momentum, say you were going forward, and then you brake, itll do the creaking and then wont happen when you brake again while still going forward. but once you put it into reverse and then you brake itll creak, but wont creak any more after while still reversing. And then again, when you go back to forward and the first time you brake, itll creak. ( note will only happen the first time you brake when traveling a direction ). Wont happen, when youre going up speed bumps or hitting a pothole etc. Sound comes from Front left area. I'm unsure as to what might be causing this sound so if anyone has any suggestions please. Ive got a set of R34 GTT brakes that I will be installing soon too. (and disregard the gutter rashes, from previous owner(s)... ) Otherwise, it has a shot set of Tein Coilovers, original bushings except poly on tension rods. Car has 138k kms. Video reference :

Hey man, instead of www.skylinesaustralia.com/blah blah change the domain to sau.com.au/blah blah and it should work

Im in Sydney, if the price and the condition is right, I'll be open to travel a fair bit. Thanks

Suspension really is complicated.... All these considerations are making me over think it all. Again. I reckon I'll wait for SK's response on his coilovers, and go from there. Though if I go MCA, I'll have to decide on whether the extra $600 (voston comforts $1890, mca pro comfort is $2490) is worth it. Just something soft and comfy, yet firm enough when required at the track or a casual old pac drive for a pie... Otherwise, anyone have experience with SuperPro bushings? Needing to replace the bushings on the suspension department... Will probably keep the oem uppercontrol arms etc, and just replace the bushings.

Yeah, they mentioned that its not worth upgrading from the stock sway bar due to how their coilovers are set up. Still learning more about the suspension etc, but with Garys approach of lower spring rates and controlling roll with bars and obviously improved dampers, wouldnt that be like softer ride and more roll but with the sway bar, it keeps the roll to a minimum/lower amount? Where as MCA's approach of stronger springs, and dampers adjusted for the springs, wouldnt that be a harder ride (against bumps, going straight etc) and less roll, and the stock sway bar does its thing but the coilovers does the majority of the work? Its a daily so im in favor of a softer ride while normally driving but keeping the roll to a minimum while turning etc. Or am I getting my idea of suspension completely wrong? I was looking at the Pro Comfort, it has the price hike of it being the MCA Pro series ( extra $400, total $2490 ). Ive read people saying the blue/red/gold series(and the blues being more favorable from the past threads) but what would those be nowadays? What was the drive difference between the BC golds and the MCA Blues you got?

Would they fit the series 2 awd auto? Assuming theyre still in decent shape, how much are you asking for (including fronts)? Not in a rush to get them as im using the TEINS they came with, just a rough ride. Yeah, considering I cant afford a very nice set of coilovers, im thinkin Voston Comforts (Sent MCA an email, and theyre saying Voston Sports though but 13/8KG I reckon would be too stiff). In that price range, was considering the BC-BR RS( rubber mount, not pillowball). not sure of spring rates yet, but my thoughts so far.

So currently im running a set of TEIN Lowdown spec, freestyle master, Superflex Wagons (long name i know aha) Numbers on it are GRN78-11931, WGNC34-F, 1F017. Probably wont really matter the numbers. Anyhows, had my car driven by me pops earlier today on Old Pacific Hwy, to get an idea of what to do regarding suspension. Final verdict was shocks needs a rebuild/replacing, control arm bushings are worn out, and better tyres (currently running winrun r330 215/50/17 for now). Just wondering whether I should get the teins rebuilt etc or go for the bilstein setup (will mainly be street driven and may may may-be get tracked). As for bushings, just deciding on whether to replace the stock control arms etc with adjustables , or to just replace the bushings with most likely polyurethane on the ole stock arms etc.

Nevermind, just figured out all you had to do was make it sau.com.au/_______ instead of skylinesaustralia.com.... Small brain moments...

Hey is there a way to access information that was on skylinesaustralia.com? Or has all the information etc moved here?

okay thank you thank you ahahha

Hey I've got a Hyper Hot InaZma? some voltage stabiliser, thats hooked up when i bought the car. Any idea what the pros/cons of this is and whether its worth keeping?

Im doing around 18L/100km, Sydney traffic... I take that as its ass?

Hey lads, thanks for the replies. Im still yet to decide on which ecu to go with (heavily considering nistune still due to its price), but for tuning, ill leave it to the pros. Ive read and heard decent/good things about 'performance academies' and it being a good place to start learning so Ill have a look at them first before touching anything on the ecu's (if it does need touching atleast..) Otherwise just to confirm, I 'dont need' a wideband do I? The tuning shop uses their own wideband etc when tuning? And having your own wideband is mainly for your own datalogging or use? I bought an AEM wideband a while ago, it was faulty though, but Ive got an new LSU4.9 in the garage sitting there...

So what youre saying is, a nistune would require extensive dyno'ing etc to even get remotely close to driving like factory, where as a LINK would do the same with ease? If I go link, it would most likely be tuned by myself, learning from scratch. Where as Nistune, would be tuned probably by a shop. But to be honest, as much as Id like the huge capabilty of the LINK, still debating on LINK + Self tune (no experience at all) vs nistune + tuned by a shop.. Actually while ont his topic, just want to check pricing/requirements. Link / Haltech ECU $2000-$2500 Wideband (Got a brand new LSU4.9 in the garage, just gotta get a gauge/controller?) FMIC $700? (probably blitz) NISTUNE Nistune installation <$500 Tune <$1000 FMIC $700 (blitz?) R35 MAF ~$350?

Y'know what, after reading a topic on a 360kw build using a nistune (who ended up going LINK), im now considering a LINK over a nistune. The engine protection alone would probably be worth it. And id like to learn to tune so would be nice to have that safe guard. Which means i probably wont need a boost controller then, or the R35 MAF. Becoming a bit of a blog now but oh wells. As mentioned previously, the goal is around 300kw, for a daily driver. Will be looking at fitting a highflow turbo or similar (something that doesnt require downpipes, manifolds etc to be changed out) when the current stock gives out or the money for it is there.

Nah, im after the more newer looking, one with the OLED display

ahh gotchya, I dont have nistune installed yet, still debating on who to go to for install + tune. Im a sucker for jap brand mods, dunno why, but either way, will look at getting a profec soon. HKS evc is a bit too expensive for me... Havent researched on this yet, but I wonder if anyones relocated the horns and i think the trans cooler? to a different location. Though moving transcooler might not be beneficial if its in traffic (which in Syd, is impossible to avoid) And upgrade the ac condenser fan to a more thinner/slimmer one. Maybe then, there'd be more clearance for a FMIC, without having to cut the REO. Again, havent done ANY research so please dont roast me for 'use the search feature'

Thats unfortunate. Would yous know of any kits etc that wouldnt require the reo being cut? or possibly even changing the reo to a different model? Like to an R33 GTR/260RS for more room? Otherwise, what is this FP2 software and how does it become upgraded? is it some paywall or like a physical thing?

Hey sorry to revive this thread but just wanted to ask some more questions. 1, FMIC. Im still debating between the brands... Whether the blitz is worth the extra $300 ish over the cooling pro etc. (from the countless searches, i havent really been able to see a definite answer on this... Some claim cooling pro can do 300kw+, and some says its restrictive compared to the blitz). If anyones got either of em, did it require cutting on the front REO? Or possibly finding a smaller intercooler and get some custom piping as a return flow. 2, boost controller, a user wrote that nistune will be able to control boost. Just wanted to double check that before pulling the trigger on a greddy profec... Thanks.

Ive sent a message to you via dms

Just bringing up an old post, but you wouldnt by anychance still have the intercooler would ya?

Ooh hectic, thats a way to save some money. Was looking at a greddy profec. Looks good too, espec over my std boost turbosmart boost gauge.