Wazmond

Yeah, they mentioned that its not worth upgrading from the stock sway bar due to how their coilovers are set up. Still learning more about the suspension etc, but with Garys approach of lower spring rates and controlling roll with bars and obviously improved dampers, wouldnt that be like softer ride and more roll but with the sway bar, it keeps the roll to a minimum/lower amount? Where as MCA's approach of stronger springs, and dampers adjusted for the springs, wouldnt that be a harder ride (against bumps, going straight etc) and less roll, and the stock sway bar does its thing but the coilovers does the majority of the work? Its a daily so im in favor of a softer ride while normally driving but keeping the roll to a minimum while turning etc. Or am I getting my idea of suspension completely wrong? I was looking at the Pro Comfort, it has the price hike of it being the MCA Pro series ( extra $400, total $2490 ). Ive read people saying the blue/red/gold series(and the blues being more favorable from the past threads) but what would those be nowadays? What was the drive difference between the BC golds and the MCA Blues you got?

Would they fit the series 2 awd auto? Assuming theyre still in decent shape, how much are you asking for (including fronts)? Not in a rush to get them as im using the TEINS they came with, just a rough ride. Yeah, considering I cant afford a very nice set of coilovers, im thinkin Voston Comforts (Sent MCA an email, and theyre saying Voston Sports though but 13/8KG I reckon would be too stiff). In that price range, was considering the BC-BR RS( rubber mount, not pillowball). not sure of spring rates yet, but my thoughts so far.

So currently im running a set of TEIN Lowdown spec, freestyle master, Superflex Wagons (long name i know aha) Numbers on it are GRN78-11931, WGNC34-F, 1F017. Probably wont really matter the numbers. Anyhows, had my car driven by me pops earlier today on Old Pacific Hwy, to get an idea of what to do regarding suspension. Final verdict was shocks needs a rebuild/replacing, control arm bushings are worn out, and better tyres (currently running winrun r330 215/50/17 for now). Just wondering whether I should get the teins rebuilt etc or go for the bilstein setup (will mainly be street driven and may may may-be get tracked). As for bushings, just deciding on whether to replace the stock control arms etc with adjustables , or to just replace the bushings with most likely polyurethane on the ole stock arms etc.

Nevermind, just figured out all you had to do was make it sau.com.au/_______ instead of skylinesaustralia.com.... Small brain moments...

Hey is there a way to access information that was on skylinesaustralia.com? Or has all the information etc moved here?

okay thank you thank you ahahha

Hey I've got a Hyper Hot InaZma? some voltage stabiliser, thats hooked up when i bought the car. Any idea what the pros/cons of this is and whether its worth keeping?

Im doing around 18L/100km, Sydney traffic... I take that as its ass?

Hey lads, thanks for the replies. Im still yet to decide on which ecu to go with (heavily considering nistune still due to its price), but for tuning, ill leave it to the pros. Ive read and heard decent/good things about 'performance academies' and it being a good place to start learning so Ill have a look at them first before touching anything on the ecu's (if it does need touching atleast..) Otherwise just to confirm, I 'dont need' a wideband do I? The tuning shop uses their own wideband etc when tuning? And having your own wideband is mainly for your own datalogging or use? I bought an AEM wideband a while ago, it was faulty though, but Ive got an new LSU4.9 in the garage sitting there...

So what youre saying is, a nistune would require extensive dyno'ing etc to even get remotely close to driving like factory, where as a LINK would do the same with ease? If I go link, it would most likely be tuned by myself, learning from scratch. Where as Nistune, would be tuned probably by a shop. But to be honest, as much as Id like the huge capabilty of the LINK, still debating on LINK + Self tune (no experience at all) vs nistune + tuned by a shop.. Actually while ont his topic, just want to check pricing/requirements. Link / Haltech ECU $2000-$2500 Wideband (Got a brand new LSU4.9 in the garage, just gotta get a gauge/controller?) FMIC $700? (probably blitz) NISTUNE Nistune installation <$500 Tune <$1000 FMIC $700 (blitz?) R35 MAF ~$350?

Y'know what, after reading a topic on a 360kw build using a nistune (who ended up going LINK), im now considering a LINK over a nistune. The engine protection alone would probably be worth it. And id like to learn to tune so would be nice to have that safe guard. Which means i probably wont need a boost controller then, or the R35 MAF. Becoming a bit of a blog now but oh wells. As mentioned previously, the goal is around 300kw, for a daily driver. Will be looking at fitting a highflow turbo or similar (something that doesnt require downpipes, manifolds etc to be changed out) when the current stock gives out or the money for it is there.

Nah, im after the more newer looking, one with the OLED display

ahh gotchya, I dont have nistune installed yet, still debating on who to go to for install + tune. Im a sucker for jap brand mods, dunno why, but either way, will look at getting a profec soon. HKS evc is a bit too expensive for me... Havent researched on this yet, but I wonder if anyones relocated the horns and i think the trans cooler? to a different location. Though moving transcooler might not be beneficial if its in traffic (which in Syd, is impossible to avoid) And upgrade the ac condenser fan to a more thinner/slimmer one. Maybe then, there'd be more clearance for a FMIC, without having to cut the REO. Again, havent done ANY research so please dont roast me for 'use the search feature'

Thats unfortunate. Would yous know of any kits etc that wouldnt require the reo being cut? or possibly even changing the reo to a different model? Like to an R33 GTR/260RS for more room? Otherwise, what is this FP2 software and how does it become upgraded? is it some paywall or like a physical thing?

Hey sorry to revive this thread but just wanted to ask some more questions. 1, FMIC. Im still debating between the brands... Whether the blitz is worth the extra $300 ish over the cooling pro etc. (from the countless searches, i havent really been able to see a definite answer on this... Some claim cooling pro can do 300kw+, and some says its restrictive compared to the blitz). If anyones got either of em, did it require cutting on the front REO? Or possibly finding a smaller intercooler and get some custom piping as a return flow. 2, boost controller, a user wrote that nistune will be able to control boost. Just wanted to double check that before pulling the trigger on a greddy profec... Thanks.

Ive sent a message to you via dms

Just bringing up an old post, but you wouldnt by anychance still have the intercooler would ya?

Ooh hectic, thats a way to save some money. Was looking at a greddy profec. Looks good too, espec over my std boost turbosmart boost gauge.

As per title. Looking to buy a FMIC Return flow that would fit a C34 Stagea. an EBC, nistune for RB25DET NEO TIA

Auto unfortunately, though despite manuals being more fun, and more 'manly,' its a daily driver, and autos... convenient... Anyhows, cant afford to dosh out 2k+ for an aftermarket ecu anyways either. Wanted to tune soon due to fuel costs and it feels a bit lacking in power too. Maybe associated with poor afr? Upon further thought though, I might just go for a return flow intercooler. Im not wanting to cut a piece of the REO or the chassis to fit the crossover piping and risk it being defected etc. End goal is just an OEM+ build. Appreciate the advice lads. To buy list, FMIC return flow, Boost controller, 3" hi flow cat, and a nistune! And then later down the road, hiflow turbo, afm, injectors and possibly coilpacks etc.

Ah gotchya. What was the mods of yours? With the R35 MAF, its an option you select on the software right? Which im assuming will change the maf 'parameters'? With it accordingly?. So would it be something you just install and select and just converts over, or would it require another tune? Understanding that the piping size on the MAF affects it too.

Okay ill go for cross flow. Is a fmic even worth it at this point? Or would the stock smic suffice You mentioned the afm has a limit of around 220kw, same as injectors. A completely stock motor with stock turbo, just turbo back wont hit 220kw will it? So considering that, i wont need to upgrade AFM/Injectors until a turbo upgrade right? thanks again

okay, ill go with a cross flow one too. What do you reckon in regards to the intake? Stay with the stock airbox and source the top cover + snorkel? or a airbox for the k&n pod filter?

Cheers for the response, for the intake side, im looking into a cooling pro FMIC kit, still debating on return flow or cross over. From what ive read, return flow seems to be good enough for 300kw too so not too sure which to go with aha. Other wise, im running the stock airbox, though the car didnt come with the top cover of the airbox + snorkel so its just held on by a metal cover/clamp. W/o the snorkel, its currently sucking in engine bay air so could be reducing economy through there too? Car also came with k&n pod filter too. Just debating on spending the $200~ on the SRI Alloy pod filter air box (to make it legal in NSW) or $100-$150 ish on the airbox + snorkel....

Hey lads, Sorry to add another thread, to this frequently asked question (couldnt find much on a mostly stock motor...) Ive got a S2 Stagea with the Rb25det NEO, mostly stock. Only thing done is 3" JJR bellmouth downpipe, 3" catco hiflow cat(its rattling so due for replacement soon), kakimoto catback Walbro 255lph and i think thats about it... Fuel economy is ass, doing around 18L/100 (150km half tank in Syd), and just looking to do a nistune to hopefully get it a bit better. End goal is probably a hiflow turbo, to get to <300kw. Just wondering if I need to do anything before the nistune like upgrading to R35AFM, or injectors etc? TIA