T.Krol

So you all advice to change out the Ross kit?

Hi, Well I have no idea what the cause might be. Whenever the oil is above 70c and intake temps are above 24-26c I have no trigger issues at all. But when the outside temp is low and intake temps are under 20c and engine oil doesnt come above 62-66c (external oil cooler) I have the trigger issues. My tuner checked the map and there are no engine oil temp restrictions on power delivery/rpm targets. Anybody any idea what else could cause this? Feel free to check the mapfile here above. Thanks.

Yes trigger errors indeed. Non the less here is the map file. Perhaps someone can see something suspicious. Thanks for the help so far. R32 GTR T.Krol G4+ (trigger issue).pclr

If he can that would be awesome ofcourse. I really have no clue what causes it at this point. Id rather pin point it myself with the help of you guys before I drop it off at a shop and they have to spend hours searching..

Well an update. The air gaps looked very very close and perfect. Ran the car a bit. Still had the issue. Was about to turn around but decided to do one more 2nd to end 3rd pull. No trigger cuts. Look at the oil temp was around 72c. I have an oil cooler (no AC) behind the intercooler. So oil temps take long time to get up. Did 10 more pulls 2nd to 4th, no cuts. Would it be possible the engine limit/speed is limited by certain oil temps below 70c? Makes it even harder to put my finger on the issue. Problem seems to go away when the car is good on temperature.

Threads at 2 of the 3 locations where you attach the cam trigger cap are not very good anymore. At least not with the bolts (believe m10) that were in there now. One bolt was already loose and when putting the cap back in, I couldn't get a 2nd bolt in. So now I'm stuck with 1 bolt. Can imagine that at high revs this could cause vibrations in the ross cap and thus the cam tooth giving a wrong signal to the sensor. Tomorrow just looking for slightly longer m10 bolts. Air gap of the crank looked very close and oke. Hope this would fix the issue quit easily but I am not sure.

How can you determine the cam sensor air gap with the Ross kit? Since the sensor is attached to the closed 'cap' over the cam gearing? I a new to this so please bear that in mind:).

Great. I asked the question there as well.

Great thank you. I will be checking this and see if this has fixed the issue.

Hi, Thanks for the reply. You mean the air gap between the crank sensor and the wheel, just to be sure? I read that it should be 1 to max 2mm for both the crank as for the cam sensor. Thanks.

Link to Data-log Link G4+ ECU: https://1drv.ms/u/s!An_ML36HZBw-hhz3uvNXSiDLCIZp Hi, I am having hard boost or fuel cuts at around 6k RPM. First I thought it was due to overboosting (boost cut). But on checking the data log with my tuner we noticed that the trigger kit was having a malfunction during pulls. Boost or fuel is cut very hard. RPM gauge in the car really flips hard bounces back and forward. Red engine light pop-ups. In the data log you see the ECU measures engine speeds of 35k+. So the trigger/crank sensors are having some hard time for some reason. I have a built engine and head with a full Ross trigger kit. Hope someone can assist or has experience with this issue and what the possible cause(s) can be.

Reservoir was almost at max level without ign on. Topped it off but did a lil too much. I am 8-10mm above max level. Tried to put the ign on and see what it did but it stayed at that level. Is that allright to run the car with a little over max? Havnt turned the car on yet to check the level.

Allright. Will try that. Lets hope it all stays in one piece before I install the upgraded hose/connectors.

Thanks guys. Can you simply add fluid to the reservoir or do you need to bleed the system afterwards?

Thank you. I did read that the clunk noise can have many different causes. I guess the car needs to go in the air to figure that one out. I did go ahead and ordered this product: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/collections/nissan-skyline-r32gt-r/products/fpg-bnr32-attesa-high-pressure-hose-replacement-with-optional-pressure-sensor-adapter-fpg-116?variant=42829932724402. Since I am quit sure that the leak is coming from the Attesa hose. Also it might be leaking at the Atessa pump above the read diff, since I do get a bit of oil leaking from the right side area of the rear-diff, also red colored oil. Is it harmful to drive every now and then with the car with this small leak?

Hi, if had the car for around 3000km now. Since the last 750km the transfer case started to leak. I have degreased it a few times and after a drive the drips are already hanging under the case. It’s red of color so I am sure it is ATF fluid. The case or gearbox has not been removed. I did change the gearbox oil to redline to get rid of a grind in fourth, but thats it. What are the most common causes of these cases to start leaking? Also when shifting I feel the car does a hard clunk even when letting the clutch get up slowly. Its like something gets a snap due to getting power from the engine. If that makes sense. Hope someone can narrow it down for me. Can’t get the car in the air to verify more. Would need to go to a shop for that. cheers!