Hafidel36

I ended up going 18x10+0 in the rears and 18x9,5+15 in the fronts. Fit absolutely perfect!

She came back from the bodyshop, very happy with the results! She's on JR12 wheels, powdercoated in bronze satingloss. Couldnt put the front Z tune lip because of the height, might have to tweak the coilovers a bit because it did look good on there!

I had the same issue. Those are all linked to one fuse by the lower driver fusebox. I believe its a 10A but it is written on the fuse box cover in japanese.

Well it wasn't necessarily going cheap. Just wasn't sure the key was the issue as it has never worked since I got the car. Ordered a new key now, found one in the UK so a lot closer to me! Will keep everyone posted if it works!

Thanks so much @soviet_merlin! Key looks very good indeed, quite pricey for a replica to be fair though! But good that you mentioned the signal analyser, haven't even thought about that to see if the key works. Might check when I get the car back! I did buy a general key with FOB on the same frequency from AliExpress but that didn't work as well. Will keep you posted!

@Kinkstaah The bodykit is coming along very nicely! The guy working on it definitely determines the end result, so I am very happy I brought it to a professional. He got the gaps and fitment just right. The front gap is being fiberglassed before going of to the filler booth to get everything smooth and even nicer! Also managed to get my hands on a nice set of a Brembo brake kit from a 350Z! So the GTST brakes will be taken off again. I had the CD009 box fitted, but noticed a grind while going into 3rd gear. Hoped it would wear off as the box was sitting on the shelf for a few years. But I also managed to source another CD009 gearbox so I am thinking of exchanging the box again while I get the first CD checked over. Anyone advise on how to properly diagnose a gearbox? Clutch kit (PMC motorsport kit) feels very heavy to, so might getting everything inspected!

Nice! The JDM community in the Netherlands is pretty active. You will feel more than welcome I'm sure :D! Make sure you bring along a sh*tload of special parts to bribe us. 😂

Thanks Kinkstaah, will do just that. I was hoping to get some theory behind it and start looking for some good deals! But the best idea is to just be patient I guess.. Thanks!

Hello all, I have brought my R34 to the bodyshop to get the Z-Tune bodykit fitted. This also includes the rear overfenders. My wheel situation always was a bit rough so was wondering what theoretically would be the best option. I was running 18", 8,5J ET35 all around with 20mm spacers in the back and 5 mm spacers in the front. (from memory, the car is at the bodyshop so can't verify) It was pretty tight as the car was also lowered, but I also noticed the fenders being rolled to make this fit. Now I don't really know how much wider the overfenders will make the car, but I believe it's around 50 mm per side in the back and 20 mm per side in the front. I am not so familiar with all these calculations so I was hoping someone could verify some numbers and advise on what kind of wheel numbers I should be looking at to get a correct fitment without spacers (or as minimal as possible). I would like to keep 18". I don't think I can compare it with a GT-R because I don't think the track width is the same.

Update 4: Fitted a oil catch can with an open air vent. Ordered the wrong hose connections though so need adapters for the valve cover breathers. Does anyone know what the original diameter is?

Update 3: 3d scanned the dash to fit a custom screen on the MFD location. Got it engineered and will be 3d printing it and hope to get a nice wrap to get the same finish as the original dash. This will be a nice custom solution for all types of displays

Update 2: Fitted R33 GTST brake set all around. Not yet the full big brake setup I wanted, but got a very good deal on them and they are much nicer than the original GT brake. Calipers painted in metallic gold.

Update 1: Fitted the CD009 6speed gearbox with a PMC Motorsport adapter set and clutch kit. Lots of modifications were needed, but install done by the tuner. Also removed the Nissan ECU and now running completely on ECUMASTER ECU. Shifter fork got pushed way back, so am thinking of a solution to get it centered again. WhatsApp Video 2023-10-26 at 12.11.43 (1).mp4

I understand! It does have shrouds in them, just very dark ones. Will get a better pic later on

Hello all, While manual swapping my R34 to a CD009 box, i found out my 2nd hand master cylinder is leaking. As the original R34 master cylinder is nowhere to be found in the Netherlands I came across a small match with the S14 master cylinder which is on stock here (and 3 times cheaper): R34 : 30610-AA10A S14 : 30610-74f91 They look pretty much identical, but can't check the lengths and internals. Does anyone know if these are interchangeable?

I also checked my FOB, and it was DISGUSTING! I had some great hope the cleanup would be enough to get it working again, but unfortunately I'm afraid it was too much for the board. It looks like it got dipped in cola or something. After cleanup it still didn't work, but I am a little bit more certain the FOB is the culprit here. But great advice! Had no idea the IP rating was in the negatives on these keys.

What do you mean? Do you have a photo?

Thank you all, I will try to clean the board firstly and alternatively try to get a different FOB. Will let you guys know the result. Car is now off the get manual swapped 🥰

@Predator1 the engine runs extremely smooth and apart from the tune to get the power to around 320 bhp and the future plans to get it to 450 I don't really have any other wishes. I'm no extreme speedfreak on the roads and want it to be as reliable and fun as possible. But the engine is most definitely also on the list as mentioned above. I already purchased the bodykit and started assembly on the front. It is a cheap aftermarket bodykit so the fitment was absolutely hideous. I will be bringing the whole lot to a bodyshop for fitting, aligning and modifying to get it spot on:

Thanks Duncan, Does someone know what frequency the remote is on? I have a bazillion remotes lying around for work and I can try to use another remote. Should the remote be giving some indicator like a light eg.?

Hello, so my first of (hopefully not too) many issues I hope to solve with your help. My remote door unlocking/locking does not function. I have tried the method described HERE and the car goes in programming mode, but then simply doesn't respond to any buttons. I have replaced the battery in the sender. This is the key I have. Came with the car, but I do not know if this is the original one. Where do I start diagnosing the potential issue? Is it with the receiver, actuator or remote and how? I opened the opened the doorcard and this is the actuator in the driver door: Thanks a lot!

Hello fellow enthousiasts, I would like to introduce myself as a newbie. My name is Hafid and I am from the Hague, The Netherlands. I am 34 years old and recently the proud owner of a white Nissan Skyline R34 GT+T auto from 2000. As a daily I drive a 2018 GLC220d. This is my first JDM machine, I did have a few European project cars before, though. I don't want to say the car was neglected, but many upgrades were done on a budget and my goal is to get it in great condition and complete. My plans are as follow: - Manual swap with a CD009 6 speed transmission (planned next week) - Z-tune bodykit for a GT-R look - Wrap or paint to gunmetal grey - Big brake kit 350z or 370z - Complete the turbo conversion. Currently the power is limited to approx 250 bhp due to the gearbox not being able to cope. When manual converted, retune to approx 320 bhp. Hopefully with some future upgrades, get to around 450bhp. The little things I want to do or are missing - Install a tablet on the MFD location displaying ECU stats - Watercool the turbo (no idea why it is not yet cooled) - Missing the washer reservoir (due to FMIC placement) Currently missing the reservoir - Some nice seats - Install cat or extra muffler. Currently it's obnoxiously loud (screamer pipe) - Oil catch can - Horn was not working, aftermarket steering wheel. Clockspring was missing, recently bought I am not really a streetracer or in extreme need for speed but I do want to take it on the track every now and then. To be fair, most of the upgrades are for the looks because from my perspective the R34 still is one of the most beautifull cars ever. Hope to receive and give some good tips from the forum!