Kip

On mine, it was on the driver's side of the car between the fusebox and the battery. It was different than the location on the GT-Rs. Mine is a different engine, I know, but it may help. The hose still had the telltale yellow line on it.

Thanks. That's helpful. Definitely easier to get ones for a Silvia. And this confirms my suspicions that they would work too.

Hi all, The lenses on my front bumper turn indicators are cracked. I've had limited luck looking up the part number, but the part is an Ichikoh 3323, except with clear lenses (not the stock amber). Is there some place to get replacement, clear lenses? Are these from the Nissan parts bin, but maybe a different model? It looks like the Silvia units are close, but I'm not convinced they'll work. Any help would be appreciated. -Kip

I'm struggling with a similar issue on an RB26. Make sure you know whether it's volume or resonance. Mine seemed louder when cruising compared to at idle. I downloaded a decibel meter for my phone. Take my less than scientific results with a couple grains of salt, but the decibels were the same at idle and at cruise. Mine seems to be a resonance problem. At 2500-3500 rpm, the sound is different and "louder" to my ear. I think it's vibration from the pipe, the car body, the floor or something creating tone. Anyway, consider that it may not be strictly a volume problem.

Yay. I'm the lucky one who got the bad LCD. Only 138,000km or so on this car. 🙄 On a non-Nissan car I have, similar issues were related to failing cold solder joints. At least with the Stag, I'm not losing my speedometer, odometer, gas gauge, and temp gauge. I guess I get to go into the dash at some point. I'm not overly concerned about it, but it's annoying. Seems to be happening more frequently in the past couple weeks too. Not sure if that's the summer heat causing hassles or the problem genuinely getting worse. Bleh.

Hi all, For my '98 260rs... The odometer LCD occasionally turns blank or gives me only the bottom half or top half of the numbers. It's intermittent, which leaves me to believe it's a dead solder or loose wire somewhere. The odometer itself works. When the screen comes back, kms have been added to the trip and overall meters. A couple questions: Is this a known issue with the Stagea? I didn't see it pop up in my quick search, but that could be my searching skills. How accessible is the LCD screen in the cluster? I'm hoping it's a remove and replace type situation versus cracking open the whole housing. I'm hoping you all can narrow some of my initial troubleshooting. Any experience or opinions would be helpful.

Yeah. Seeing the finish line must be quite the motivation. Good on you for sticking with it. Understood about the model choice. Also, totally get the challenge with sourcing parts. Based on your handle, I'm just a few hours south of you. All the little things I've bought so far come with $30 shipping, even if it's just stickers for the boot!

This is a good tip. Two things: Will a JASMA tag literally have the word "JASMA" on it? If not, what does it look like and is there a common place to find it on the exhaust? Nevermind. I found some images. Similar question for the restrictor. Is there a common place it would be located or some sort of indicator that can be seen from the outside? Do I have to drop the exhaust and look around until I stumble on it?

True. That's a total duh moment from me there.

Hi all, Getting ready to put standalone engine management on my 260RS followed by some dyno tuning. When I took a baseline on the dyno a month or so ago, my car wasn't in the library of car models for the dyno software. This is probably because I'm in the States and this car or the R33 were never officially here. We did a custom setup based on info found on this forum and other internet sites. One parameter that we totally SWAG'ed was drivetrain weight. For future use, does anyone have the drivetrain weight for an R33 (assuming it's the same for my car)? Even better, can anyone provide me the full parameters for proper setup on a Mustang dyno? Thanks in advance.

Thanks, Duncan. This is good info. The pipe is 3+" in diameter. I assume the cat is the biggest flow impediment right now. Then again, the fiberglass packing came shooting out of the car when I put it on the dyno, so I'm kind of de-catted at this point. I'm going to get under the car tomorrow to change the oil. I'm hoping I can scope out the downpipe and turbos.

Been poking around on the new to me car. I've determined that I have a Kakimoto exhaust from at least the downpipe back (I haven't confirmed the downpipe yet). It has a catalytic converter. Other than the company branding on the exhaust tip, I can only find one other marking. Behind the cat and under the car is a plate that has the numbers "NF307FP" and "M11111". Unfortunately, the Kakimoto website is written in Japanese and my browser won't translate it. I found that Nengun sells the brand, but my exhaust doesn't look like their current offering. They do indicate that each pipe is custom made, but I assume that's more of an inventory control thing than some sort of special, vehicle specific tuning. Anyone have a guess about what I have here? I'm getting ready to throw some dollars at tuning this car, but want to make good decisions. No reason to throw out a perfectly good exhaust system, if this thing will equal a full custom build.

Congrats on the progress. That's got to feel good to get the build done/mostly done. Now that you're this deep into it, I'm curious if you'd do it again versus finding a 5MT from the get go?

Totally get that. But to be clear, I bought from RHD Specialties in Kent, WA, not JapaneseClassics. I'd recommend them, fwtw. After about 6 months of ownership, it's pretty clear there's been no general jackassery with my car. The engine is tight and reflective of the mileage shown on the odometer.

Too late to edit the previous post, so I'll post a correction. I was making .6 bar before the mod and .8 bar after. That's a 33% increase in boost, not 50%. Regardless, still a freebie.

News to me. I didn't run across any when I researched them.

Took longer than a weekend to get to it, but I finally took the time. The boost controller is in a different spot on the Stagea (between the battery and fuse box), but the hose with the yellow line was there. Sure enough, the restrictor was still in my car. Woot! 50% more boost for 20 mins and $0 USD ($0 AUD at current exchange rates 😜).

Based on the dyno results, the car already has some modifications (~269 kw at the crank). I need to find out to what extent, but assume some sort of ECU adjustment has been made previously. I'll have to check that out too. I will be changing out some of the exhaust (still running the cats, but blew out the fiberglass packing on the dyno), so I'm leaning towards a Haltech PnP approach. That's all dependent on what I find though.

Sorry. Typo. It's a 225/50r17. @joshuaho96 called it right. My bad.

Late to the party on this one, but responding anyway. Fellow 'murican here. I bought mine through RHD Specialties in Washington state. They specialize in JDM importing. They find good cars, bring them in, federalize them, and register them. For me, it was a matter of just taking all the Washington state paperwork and sale bill to the local BMV and registering it. Well, I needed a VIN check by the police, but that was it. I highly recommend RHD Specialties. Easy to work with. Enthusiasts. Good guys.

That's a good piece of info. I'll have some time this weekend to check it out. Don't even have to put it on a lift! 👍

I'm quoting the speed from the dyno. It's what's printed on the readout. My winter tires are 245/45r17. Stock size is 255/50r17. An online calculator tells me my tires are 5mm shorter than stock and requires 3 more revolutions per KM. I think your point is valid. The same calculator confirms that it introduces some error to the speedo. When my speedo reads 150kph, I'm actually doing 148.9kph. It doesn't make up the whole difference, but accounts for some of it. Speedometers can be impacted by so many different tire variables: amount of wear, tire pressure, size, etc. On most every car/van/truck I've owned, I have found that speedos read 2-3 mph (4.4 - 6.6 kph) higher than actual speed. Now knowing that the speed limiter is reading off the cluster, I have no doubt the clusters inaccuracy comes into play here. To @GTSBoy's point, It doesn't account for all of the "missing" 18 kph.

I'll ping the shop. See if they recall. It was only a couple hours ago, so the odds should be pretty good. If not, they took video of the runs for their website (Stagea's are rare in the States). If it's not edited too much, maybe it will give some indication of the gear they used. -Kip

Maybe. I haven't had a chance to dig into the engine bay. It didn't come with a mod sheet, so I need to go on a fact finding mission.

Based on the in dash meter, around 0.8 bar. Stock is 10 psi on this motor, yes? If so, I'm pretty much running stock boost. -Kip