shortyboy

Got the yeshla-d trigger kit working on link ecu. On the RB25 Neo, you need to remove cam cover inserts, so that trigger mount plate sits flush with cam cover. Wiring, white on sensor goes to sensor ground ( black ) and black on sensor goes to trigger 1 ( red ).Then you need to make sure you gap it correctly with/without shim. I needed a shim as sensor was touching trigger wheel a bit. Smallest shim at 1.15 was too thick, so I filed it down to get 0.98mm, trigger scope showed good wave form. Used these settings to get started, then used timing gun to fine tune. I got an offset of 93.

any update on the yelsha-d trigger setup? Looking to get one for my neo on link g4x

Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks

Thanks for the tips. I was able to get it in but got cut up by the brake line retainers. lol. Got at ATR43SS-2 and its tight in there. I bought a Mamba GT30 oil/water line kit, turbo outlet studs, turbo to manifold studs and exhaust manifold studs. Shipping was quick from Taiwan to Hawaii and quality is good. I needed to trim the lower right turbo to manifold stud and grind the turbine housing a bit to fit the bolt and tool. When installing banjo and lines to turbo, I needed to tighten line on bajo first and then install onto turbo, because theres no way to fit a 19mm wrench to install the lines onto turbo. Now, I need to find a fabricator or fabricate my own 4 inch turbo inlet pipe.

Im in the process of swapping out turbos for a Hypergear ATR43SS-2. I bought a water/oil line kit from Mamba, for Garret GT30, according to Tao. All fittings fit properly, except for the water return line. It has a -AN fitting to hose barb. From what I see, I need to remove hardline and install hose barb fitting to rubber line behind the head. I located the rubber line but is there an easier way to gain access without taking valve cover or intake manifold off?

Thank you for explaining. Makes more sense now. I saw that diagram but wasnt sure if the MAC solenoid would use the same plumbing. So I just did what the stock looked like. Ill get that fixed. I even saw this image As for MAP sensor, When I place vacuum line from MAP to stock location vac reference ( port by BOV flange ) the car runs like crap. I think the port is clogged or something, cause when I moved the MAP line to plenum and connected the BOV to that line, I get compressor surge. This is why I moved MAP vacuum line to plenum where BOV is. Where can I T the MAP vacuum? Sources Ive read said to let MAP vacuum be its own and not to T.

I was able to complete installation of the G4X ecu. I needed to reroute MAP vacuum signal from stock location to where BOV is connected on the intake plenum. Has anyone needed to do the same? When I connect vac port by the BOV flange to my HKS BOV, it doesnt work and I get flutter. I would to get BOV working, where would it be best to T in? Or would it best for me to move MAP vac line and T into FPR? Secondly, I installed a MAC 3 port boost solenoid and wanted to know if i routed it correctly. I place two lines from stock boost solenoid and placed it on ports 1 and 2, leaving 3 vented. The T for wastegate and boost source on compressor elbow is on port 2, and port 1 is connected to turbo inlet intake pipe. Please see attached pictures. Ill upload ecu config later today. Thanks in advance.

Will do thank you

R34 GTT and stock ECU. I have a link ECU waiting to be installed.

I just did the R35 coil pack conversion with Hitachi coils. Now I'm getting TCS, slip and cel lights on. Car runs great and better than before on factory coil packs. Has anyone else ran into this issue?

Doesnt sound as bad as some of the videos Ive seen on youtube. Ill wait a bit then. Didnt do much research on which belt to use tbh. I just bought the first water pump timing belt kit I saw. Thanks a bunch

Thread bump as mine is making a similar sound. Changed water pump, cam and crank seals, gates racing belt, idle and tension bearings, tension spring, new crank gear/washer/bolt. On a cold engine the sound isn't as loud but warmed up it whines alot. All searching here points to a tight belt, can this be done without draining coolant and removing radiator? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the input. Just saw the diff available locally and was wondering how much effort needed to fit. Since I was looking to add an lsd. s14 diffs would be easier to source than s15 in Hawaii. Car has abs.

Hello, new user here and new owner of a '98 ER34 4 door. Located in Hawaii. I've tried searching the web but only found some old info on 350z diff swaps. I see that GKTech offers diff conversion bushings for S/R chassis to 350/370z diff. The main reason Im looking to swap is because in 5th gear, going 110-120km or 60-70mph, rpm is at 3k or more. I believe the gtt manual diff ratio is 4.11. The diff that is available locally to me is a 370z diff w/lsd, so ratio is 3.6 ( need to check if auto or manual). Has anyone performed this swap? Do the stock axles bolt on? I know I need to drill diff flange to match driveshaft. Thanks in advance

Adapters came in. Got them from Caold Technology in Australia. 20mm in the front and 15mm in the rear. Front looks like it could take another 5mm. Work Mesiter S1 3P 18x9.5 and 18x10.5 +49. Coilovers are Blitz, may go lower a bit but the exhaust is already scraping alot of driveways. 😂