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LjB123

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    R34 GTT
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    Lachlan

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  1. Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter? TIA
  2. Thanks. So crank is the same, stroke and everything is the same? Im getting crank collar installed anyway I have heard this internet myth as well, but ive had a few unopened Neos as well and no long nose crank. Supposedly it may have been a series 2 thing? The ones I had were from series 1’s. No idea haha
  3. Thanks heaps. So basically, bare block, very very similar. And cranks are the same
  4. Hello. Was wondering if the RB25 crank shafts were same/similar across the range? What are the differences? I couldn’t find a definitive answer, and have a Neo series motor and needed a new crank. I can find plenty for sale but obviously want to make sure there isnt any difference between one from say an R33, and my current one Also out of curiosity, is there a difference between the RB25DET blocks themselves from an R34 and R33?
  5. Ah understood. I cant find anywhere that sells just the actuator, just the whole unit itself with the gear unfortunately. Not cheap either
  6. Ah ok so best bet is replace the cam gear? I do have a spare low km engine with one on it. Will try replacing it with that
  7. As in the solenoid? I disconnected it and still makes the noise unfortunately. The solenoid works as it should, unplugged and when 12v is applied it clicks open and closed
  8. Freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo, all done by the one shop except for the machining, so the reassembly/rebuild, bed in on the dyno, and final tune. So far have done just under 1000kms since getting it back, and then this tick started happening. Was a bit quieter the other day when it started, took it to the shop to have a look, was told it was likely the VCT gear had shit itself because of where the tick was situated, and to take it home, i drove home cautiously and havent driven it since, but started it up today and it was suddenly louder and more rattly. The shop is taking it back later this week to see what the go is, has anyone else had a ticking like this? Sounds like its in the head, the spun bearing it had before getting rebuilt was a deeper knock and definitely down in the bottom if the engine, different to this, its alot higher pitched Thanks in advance people! IMG_0302.mov
  9. Did you get gauges? If so were they stock ones? I purchased a new dash loom for my GTT and supposedly the loom came from another GTT, but the connector on the loom that used to plug into the 6 pin triple gauge harness connector (left in picture), is now an 8 pin connector on the loom (right in picture), and the only conclusion i could come to was the dash loom i got was from a R34 with a pop up screen?
  10. Hey guys. So bit of back story to understand where I’m at. So had to install a new dash harness as I shorted something and fried some of the old loom, easiest way to sort it was get a new loom and install it. Now my car was auto, manual converted by a previous owner, and they installed a manual cluster, left the auto loom. New loom is from a R34 GTT manual car, and pretty much everything plugs up, except for the plug for the triple gauge cluster off the loom. The photo shows the two plugs in question. On the left is the plug for the triple gauge harness, on the right is an 8 pin plug that comes off the new loom. There is no other possible plug that could be for the triple gauge. The ONLY thing we can work out is the previous car had one of those pop up TV’s, and this connector is for that. Does anyone have a photo or can take a photo of the plug for the harness for the tv unit? Theres also some other random plugs on the loom down near the radio on the new loom that could have been for the TV controls that are under the climate control unit maybe? Any help would be greatly greatly appreciated!
  11. Yeah ive looked into those. I saw one guy who made his adjustable so he could fine tune it, but theyre a decent amount of work to get right and they only do one particular range of frequencies. I feel like if youre not worried about losing some overall volume in your exhaust (like me) and want an easy solution, slap a decent muffler in and that should do it, as a muffler should take out more of a frequency range but also you lose some of the volume, which is fine for me
  12. Yeah i get what you mean. Mine thought i wouldnt mind being a bit quieter overall as well as have the drone taken out is more what i was trying to say. Im going to start with a mid muffler, and go from there
  13. Yeah great. Just got off the phone with SP, and will see about getting one of their mufflers to weld in in the next month or two. For me the varex is to get me out of the driveway, down the road and thats it. It stays open 99% of the time driving as it does definitely run rich with it closed as you said, and restricts the boost build up. Thanks for your help
  14. Cheers. I more want it quieter with the varex open. I only have the varex closed when i start up and roll out the driveway to keep everyone happy on days i take the car to work at 5 AM or come home late. So just a mod muffler will do tge trick? Something like that would require a retune hey?
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