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LjB123

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  1. LjB123
    Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter? TIA
  2. LjB123
    Thanks. So crank is the same, stroke and everything is the same? Im getting crank collar installed anyway I have heard this internet myth as well, but ive had a few unopened Neos as well and no long nose crank. Supposedly it may have been a series 2 thing? The ones I had were from series 1’s. No idea haha
  3. LjB123
    Thanks heaps. So basically, bare block, very very similar. And cranks are the same
  4. LjB123
    Hello. Was wondering if the RB25 crank shafts were same/similar across the range? What are the differences? I couldn’t find a definitive answer, and have a Neo series motor and needed a new crank. I can find plenty for sale but obviously want to make sure there isnt any difference between one from say an R33, and my current one Also out of curiosity, is there a difference between the RB25DET blocks themselves from an R34 and R33?
  5. LjB123
    Ah understood. I cant find anywhere that sells just the actuator, just the whole unit itself with the gear unfortunately. Not cheap either
  6. LjB123
    Ah ok so best bet is replace the cam gear? I do have a spare low km engine with one on it. Will try replacing it with that
  7. LjB123
    As in the solenoid? I disconnected it and still makes the noise unfortunately. The solenoid works as it should, unplugged and when 12v is applied it clicks open and closed
  8. LjB123
    Freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo, all done by the one shop except for the machining, so the reassembly/rebuild, bed in on the dyno, and final tune. So far have done just under 1000kms since getting it back, and then this tick started happening. Was a bit quieter the other day when it started, took it to the shop to have a look, was told it was likely the VCT gear had shit itself because of where the tick was situated, and to take it home, i drove home cautiously and havent driven it since, but started it up today and it was suddenly louder and more rattly. The shop is taking it back later this week to see what the go is, has anyone else had a ticking like this? Sounds like its in the head, the spun bearing it had before getting rebuilt was a deeper knock and definitely down in the bottom if the engine, different to this, its alot higher pitched Thanks in advance people! IMG_0302.mov
  9. LjB123
    Did you get gauges? If so were they stock ones? I purchased a new dash loom for my GTT and supposedly the loom came from another GTT, but the connector on the loom that used to plug into the 6 pin triple gauge harness connector (left in picture), is now an 8 pin connector on the loom (right in picture), and the only conclusion i could come to was the dash loom i got was from a R34 with a pop up screen?
  10. LjB123
    Hey guys. So bit of back story to understand where I’m at. So had to install a new dash harness as I shorted something and fried some of the old loom, easiest way to sort it was get a new loom and install it. Now my car was auto, manual converted by a previous owner, and they installed a manual cluster, left the auto loom. New loom is from a R34 GTT manual car, and pretty much everything plugs up, except for the plug for the triple gauge cluster off the loom. The photo shows the two plugs in question. On the left is the plug for the triple gauge harness, on the right is an 8 pin plug that comes off the new loom. There is no other possible plug that could be for the triple gauge. The ONLY thing we can work out is the previous car had one of those pop up TV’s, and this connector is for that. Does anyone have a photo or can take a photo of the plug for the harness for the tv unit? Theres also some other random plugs on the loom down near the radio on the new loom that could have been for the TV controls that are under the climate control unit maybe? Any help would be greatly greatly appreciated!
  11. LjB123
    Yeah ive looked into those. I saw one guy who made his adjustable so he could fine tune it, but theyre a decent amount of work to get right and they only do one particular range of frequencies. I feel like if youre not worried about losing some overall volume in your exhaust (like me) and want an easy solution, slap a decent muffler in and that should do it, as a muffler should take out more of a frequency range but also you lose some of the volume, which is fine for me
  12. LjB123
    Yeah i get what you mean. Mine thought i wouldnt mind being a bit quieter overall as well as have the drone taken out is more what i was trying to say. Im going to start with a mid muffler, and go from there
  13. LjB123
    Thanks mate!
  14. LjB123
    Yeah great. Just got off the phone with SP, and will see about getting one of their mufflers to weld in in the next month or two. For me the varex is to get me out of the driveway, down the road and thats it. It stays open 99% of the time driving as it does definitely run rich with it closed as you said, and restricts the boost build up. Thanks for your help
  15. LjB123
    Cheers. I more want it quieter with the varex open. I only have the varex closed when i start up and roll out the driveway to keep everyone happy on days i take the car to work at 5 AM or come home late. So just a mod muffler will do tge trick? Something like that would require a retune hey?
  16. LjB123
    Hey guys. So my R34 GTT has a custom 3.5” exhaust (done by previous owner) with a high flowing cat, and then just a Varex cannon muffler on the back. The car does drone alot and is really loud even on highway driving just cruising, as you can imagine due to the Varex muffler basically being a straight through with the valve open. As much as i love a loud RB, it can be a bit much with no other muffling in line and just driving casually. I wanted to lower the volume output on the exhaust a bit, as well as remove the drone (probably a way to do both at once), and was going to do it all myself as I am a fabricator and have done exhaust work in the past, so the fab work isnt my issue, im just not sure on the right product or type of product to use to get the job done, and i doubt an exhaust shop would be wanting to help me as they wont be making any money from helping me, unless they supplied the product? Anyway any help or guidance in best way to approach this would be awesome Thanks in advance
  17. LjB123
    Do you happen to remember the specs on your rims?
  18. LjB123
    Well as I will have both S1 and S2 front parts i will see what works best out of the two. Im not fussed if i need to drill extra holes, and im a big fan of Nutserts/rivet nuts and a nice painted dome head bolt as a way to hold stuff in place where plastic clips have broken and are hard to source new ones
  19. LjB123
    Awesome to know. I have a Series 1, and When pulling my front bumper off for the first time i realised my reo/crash bar was a bit worse for wear, and was going to try pick up a better one soon just so i can replace it. Someone is selling a full series 2 front bar and brackets for a decent price, so was going to probably reuse my brackets and install the new second hand reo/crash bar. I also have a genuine Altia body kit to do up, spray and put on, and not sure if that will use the series 1 or series 2 brackets for the front bumper, so having both will be handy, and knowing i can drill holes out to make stuff fit between series is also handy to know!
  20. LjB123
    Thanks for this, exactly what i needed to know - sent from the future
  21. LjB123
    Yeah not sure. I sourced another relay no problem, its definitely a relay according to Nissan parts, they used those specific relays on a bunch if cars around that time, but my two options are, find a behind dash wiring loom which is proving difficult, or get the current loom fixed up by the shop when they put my rebuilt engine back in, they are confident in their auto electrical abilities. Thing is my current loom has anti-theft stuff and GPS immobilisers wired into it so easiest option may be to just fix the current one to save ripping apart the immobiliser.
  22. LjB123
    Hey all. Had a bit of a scare today with my R34 GTT when i flicked on the tail/parker lights, and some wiring started going up in smoke under the dash. The fuse didnt blow, it just melted the casing of the fuse so must have been a crap fuse? Previous owner did alot of wiring, some of which is quite sub par and the fuse that melted was definitely newer than the other ones that were in the fuse box, but didnt seem that he touched the wires that mainly got melted. Anyway may need a small section of a new loom, is there lots of similarities between the turbo and non turbo looms especially for under the dash stuff? The wired that got friend go into a 6 pin relay under the dash. The non turbo ones are less than half the price here from a wrecker and all i would need it the section that got fried and any other wires that are affected. Thanks in advance
  23. LjB123
    So ive recently come across an issue on my R34, where no matter what i try do, the fuse pops for “tail lights” whenever i turn the “parker” light on at the indicator/light stalk. I cannot find anything wrong with wiring, and im still kind of unsure how to test continuity to find the issue as i don’t quite know how that circuit is wired. If i stick the multimeter into the earth of the parker on the driver side, i get continuity, on the passenger side i don’t. Putting it into the positive of both sides brings up nothing. I pulled apart the steering wheel surround and disconnected the plugs on the stalk and inspected them, seems all fine there. I cannot for the life of me work it out and its doing my head in, as im trying to get stuff sorted before the car goes off to get the engine back in while im away overseas from next week. I also have the very strange issue that i have been trying to work out for weeks now, when i turn the key to “ON” my dash night time lights, as well as ABS, Airbag and HICAS lights will come on, and stay on when i take the key out. Turbo timer is turned off, and also strangely, the tail lights stay on with it lit. Ive attached a video. Cannot work it out Any help would be greatly appreciated IMG_2901.mov
  24. LjB123
    Did you find the issue for yours?
  25. LjB123
    Bummer, i HATE electrical 😠
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