dodo1410

Yeah I think overall I’m running the expected power I should be running for now and I’ll just enjoy it for the time being until I get some other parts. Thanks for the advice mate I appreciate it!

He didn’t provide that info to me but I think I’m on standard timing. And no we don’t have e85 on the petrol stations here but it’s widely available here from shops. I’m just planning on getting a better ecu before switching to e85

It’s 98

Stock cas right now not really in a rush to change it to the prp trigger kit unless necessary

I like the drag idea, and unfortunately I didn’t take a picture of the dyno sheet. I’ll try out my luck on the drag and see what I clock

My tuner said my timing is 12 on one bar of boost.

yeah your correct i meant it as a low reading dyno and not a “heavy dyno” that’s just the slang people said to me so I repeated it here

Stock intercooler and 0.83 housing, everybody I know with a gtr and running north of 20 psi has 8’s for plugs and for some reason my tuner refused to tune my car if I went to 8’s and said he’s not responsible for any damages that’ll happen. That freaked me out a bit and made me stay on my 7’s.

He limited my rpm because of some ptsd he had from a previous rb26 getting head starvation, and I’m located in Dubai using pump gas. We made more power running a bit more lean but for some reason my car did not like being that lean

Hello again, I have a 1991 r32 gtr that I’ve modified and dynod. The power it gave me was a bit disappointing with 533 wheel horsepower and 444nm torque on a dyno jet dyno. On a heavier dyno it would read to about 433 wheel horsepower. I say disappointing because it currently has : CP oversized 87mm pistons Eagle H beam rods Extended crank with the nitto collar stock oil pump (nitto on the way) stock sump (leask sump on the way) Garret G35-900 single turbo ^ With 26psi of boost (1.6 bar) 6boost v band manifold turbosmart 60mm external wastegate Brian crower 264 cams tomei gaskets all around arp head studs dual wallbro fuel pumps dw 1050cc injectors greddy radiator metal Intercooler pipes nismo thermostat offbrand fuel regulator (tomei regulator on the way) ngk 7’s spark plugs (tuner refused to tune with 8’s for my car) Running on a motec m800 I know that running on e85 and opening the rpm to around 8500 instead of my current 7200 will also boost my power yet will it increase a lot or just slight because people like cardoGTR and andrew Hawkin from motive were all running around 600 wheel horsepower on the same setup as mine. Any feedback on what I’m missing? thanks

I solved the issue, they disconnected the oem TPS and replaced it with a custom motec one, circled in yellow on the picture. They canceled that and put back the oem sensor which is circled in red, and added a motec wire to it to let the ecu read it. had another slight issue where my torque would engage even when cruising but that was just low Tyre pressure. The gtr is fully fixed now with no issues, thanks for all the help guys.

Hey, I unplugged the speed sensors and cleaned off some shavings on both sides and that still didn’t fix the issue, I’ll try something else and update you guys

Alright thanks a lot I’ll sit down with a few guys and start working on this, I really appreciate it Joshua

Can you guide me a bit on where to look so I can test out the input values. thanks.

I was told if the g sensor was faulty I would’ve gotten a 4wd warning light. But regardless I found 2 after market g sensors that I may also purchase just in case.

Hey Duncan, yeah the 4wd light works fine on ignition and turns off normally with all the other lights, and as for the motec wiring it’s spliced in. I’m going back to the shop to check the ecu pins as you’ve mentioned as that could be the culprit. thanks, I’ll keep you updated.

I have a 1991 r32 gtr, and ever since I dropped the engine for a rebuild I’ve been having an issue where the attessa would fully engage on reverse and on first gear on slow speeds. It’s been happening for a year and now I hear a locked diff clunk when it engages again. The car is on a motec m800 ecu with the stock ecu also plugged in. I already bled the attessa system and changed the front n rear diff oil. I also unplugged the hicas fuse from the trunk to check if that was the issue, and I’ve checked all the fuses and all are fine. I’ll link the video of the attessa engaging. If anyone has any suggestions on what to do next let me know please. IMG_2154.MOV