33SOM

That's how its wired with the exception of the "red wire" being yellow/black in the 32r I have tried a narva and a bosch relay with no luck. Bypassing the relays it still wouldn't start..

Hi all, Rewiring my fuel pump with a relay to suit a Walbro 460l but have ran into some problems.. It's wired as follows On the relay terminal 30 goes to the battery via 8g wire Terminal 85 goes to the chassis Terminal 86 is from the old fuel pump wire (the side going to the fuel pump controller)((the trigger wire)) Terminal 87 is going to the fuel pumps positive wire. The pump is earthed directly to the chassis. Problem is the car turns over but won't fire. I can hear the fuel pump priming. It only runs when using the original positive wire on the pump I have tried using different relays Disconnecting the fuel pump controller I even ran a wire directly from the battery to the fuel pumps positive just to see if it would start... And it wouldn't The previous owner had wired the pumps earth directly to the body Any help appreciated!!

It's only just had a tune and ran fine afterwards for a couple minutes

Nistune

What I don't understand is why I can't pinpoint the missing cylinder via unplugging the coil packs 1 by 1.

Cheers for the replies. I should mention the issue started after it was assembled then went away. It had it's time on the dyno and has started playing up again. The motor probably has about 50kms on it. The Valve seats where cut. I'm using Tomei Type B springs. Timing is spot on. Going to try igniter and coils packs from a mate. Cheers

Hi all, Trying to find a misfire in my freshly rebuilt rb26. The car misfires from idle to 3000rpm ish (haven't taken it higher) What I have done to pinpoint the miss is Unplug each coil pack (the exhaust note changes with each one unpluged) Unplug each injector (same results as coil packs) New plugs New Crank angle sensor Compression test showed all 6 cylinders even (148psi) Sprayed carby cleaner around the place looking for vacuum leaks Injectors have just been professionally cleaned Unplugged the air flow meters. Car seems to idle smoother but misfires the same once I build revs up a little. Not sure where to go from here? Advice appreciated!!

A simple "it doesn't matter" is all I needed.... Just curious if doesn't matter then what's with the detailed chart?

Hence why I asked

Cheers for the lesson. Didn't realise that 1.1mm and 1.2mm where very close in size.. The reason I asked is cause the chart listed early stated 1.25mm for street, 1mm for drag/circut. I plan on doing all 3 of the above tasks and thought a 1.1mm was a good inbetween spot but wasn't sure if a 1.1mm restrictor would cause any issue's on the street. I have a 1.1mm and a 1.2mm sitting in front of me.

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1.1 or 1.2mm restrictor for an rb26 with some track/ drag/ street use?

Ah ok. I was happy with the $30 anyway. Plus free postage so all good

Hmm I got quoted $30 for an extra -10 up the top. Oh well as long as it works

Sorry my profile needed updating.. Car is a 32gtr. I have emailed Hi Octane and asked if they could put in another -10 outlet while its being made. Cheers

Engine is about to be built.

Is 2 lines from the sump to the catch can really needed? Surely the one drain line won't be full of oil all the time and would act as a vent? Edit: Also looking at this can unless someone can recommend a better can?

Ive bought 3 cars of Phil AKA PRIMO on here or Direct Imported Japan, each one was a great car. I can’t recommend him highly enough and he would be the only one I would buy from for future cars. He has been around for a long time.

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Pm replied Chindodood. Never received your email JDM?

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