Tim32

OK thanks for that, I'll do some probing on the weekend and clean up that wiring mess a bit, your hypothesis sounds logical, so I'll start there. Really appreciate the advice. 👍

HAHA yeah its been quite the experience sorting out the wiring, I had an auto electrician come and do some cleanup under the dash. Its a work in progress.

Here's some pics, ECU is stock. thanks again.

Hey guys, thanks for the replies! (We are noobs so sorry if some of this seems obvious or is completely wrong) @joshuaho96 I did go looking for the FPCM (after googling) but it's an old drift car so I think that has been bypassed already, the fuel pump is wired directly to the battery. @MBS206 OK I'll double check vacuum lines. I'm just looking at the FPR gauge, shows around 40PSI while priming and idle, until instant drop to 0, not even a slow drop, like instant.

Hey guys, I did a smoke test this week chasing vacuum leaks and found two leaks which I fixed up... Now having a weird issue where it starts and at idle after a few seconds the fuel pressure suddenly goes to 0 and stalls.. if I blip the throttle, it will regain pressure and keep going though. I put a new fuel filter on and drained the old fuel and put new fuel in but maybe thats stirred up some crap in the fuel tank and blocked the intake or something??? Any other ideas? FPR stuffed? EDIT: Also, when it stalls, the pump primes and pressure goes back up and it starts again as per normal and happens all over again.

So with an aftermarket ECU it gets tuned to handle the BOV? and why doesn't an aftermarket ECU use the MAF sensor? Do they all not use the MAF? Do they just have everything programmed into the ECU?

Yeah vents to atmosphere... So the issue I think is that the stock ECU isn't accounting for the loss of air and effectively it's a vacuum leak, so it will run rich and foul plugs etc?? is that right?

OK, update time. We finally got it fired up and running!!!!!! We think it was a combination of things but having 4 unhealthy spark plugs was definitely not helping. 😆 Yes, probably should have started there. Once we fired it up, it's having the same issue as what the guy said it was having, where if its idling its OK, and revving is OK but once you rev it and then let it idle again, it stalls.... I did a bit of digging here and came across some robust discussions about after market BOVs with stock ECUs being trouble... which this has, so probably thats where I'm going to start. Really just wanted to say thank you to everyone who posted here suggesting things and helping me out, really appreciate it and its great to be always thinking when I run into trouble there's a place we can come to get some great insights, so thanks everyone.

Thanks guys, yeah @morboost we pulled the cover and checked the timing, looked OK? see pics attached. The wires going to the CAS have been spliced open, guessing someone was checking with multimeters at some point, also the connector doesn't feel great when pushing it in, no click and looks a bit shabby. Is there a proper way to remove and reinstall the CAS, does it need to be TDC or something? or just as long as the spline matches up its all good??? It actually fired up and ran for about 5 seconds (terribly) then stopped. Now nothing again, just cranking.

OK, some positive news, I pulled the CAS and turned it by hand and the injectors pulsed. When I put it back in and cranked, it tried to start, so now its spluttering trying to start, but still no start.... Previously its just been cranking and no spluttering. Could it be the timing is out or the sensor is stuffed?

OK so we've kicked the can down the road a little bit more this weekend. Turns out there is no injector pulse either, the tacho doesn't move when cranking. One of the green relays was a bit sus near the ECU so Im going to replace that this week. We tried a couple different ignitors, we're getting 12v at the coil plugs, but no spark. So thinking maybe CAS??? There is power to the CAS. EDIT: I ran a fault code check using the jumper wire and engine light flash method, and it came back with 55... which is No Malfunction??

@GTSBoy Thank you so much for that detailed explanation, that is really helpful!!! Makes me realise how much more I don't know Here's the last frame of the video which shows his test results (attached)... I don't get any readings doing what he did. The only resistance reading I get is when I bridge two pins on B > E... ie. B (Pin 1 + Pin 2) > E... I have an auto electrician coming on the weekend again, so i'll get him to run some tests on it, I am very much out of my comfort zone. Really appreciate your time to explain it clearly.

OK got the new ECU today, hooked it up, and still crank and no spark. So managed to get a different (second hand) ignitor module.. still no spark. However, I tested the new ignitor module using this guy's youtube video as a guide and I couldn't detect any resistance from any of the pins so it could be a dud also?? I couldnt get any resistance readings from any of the pins on the old one also... Maybe Im doing it wrong? Ugh.

OK here's the MAF, I am assuming this is the original??? Thanks @Duncan I'll double check that earth. Sounds like Splitfire coils are definitely next on the list.

Thanks so much, that's good to know, they'll probably be the next thing to replace by the sounds of it. Thanks a lot for the detailed info and taking the time, really appreciate it.