Tim32

OK thanks for that, I'll do some probing on the weekend and clean up that wiring mess a bit, your hypothesis sounds logical, so I'll start there. Really appreciate the advice. 👍

HAHA yeah its been quite the experience sorting out the wiring, I had an auto electrician come and do some cleanup under the dash. Its a work in progress.

Here's some pics, ECU is stock. thanks again.

Hey guys, thanks for the replies! (We are noobs so sorry if some of this seems obvious or is completely wrong) @joshuaho96 I did go looking for the FPCM (after googling) but it's an old drift car so I think that has been bypassed already, the fuel pump is wired directly to the battery. @MBS206 OK I'll double check vacuum lines. I'm just looking at the FPR gauge, shows around 40PSI while priming and idle, until instant drop to 0, not even a slow drop, like instant.

Hey guys, I did a smoke test this week chasing vacuum leaks and found two leaks which I fixed up... Now having a weird issue where it starts and at idle after a few seconds the fuel pressure suddenly goes to 0 and stalls.. if I blip the throttle, it will regain pressure and keep going though. I put a new fuel filter on and drained the old fuel and put new fuel in but maybe thats stirred up some crap in the fuel tank and blocked the intake or something??? Any other ideas? FPR stuffed? EDIT: Also, when it stalls, the pump primes and pressure goes back up and it starts again as per normal and happens all over again.

So with an aftermarket ECU it gets tuned to handle the BOV? and why doesn't an aftermarket ECU use the MAF sensor? Do they all not use the MAF? Do they just have everything programmed into the ECU?

Yeah vents to atmosphere... So the issue I think is that the stock ECU isn't accounting for the loss of air and effectively it's a vacuum leak, so it will run rich and foul plugs etc?? is that right?

OK, update time. We finally got it fired up and running!!!!!! We think it was a combination of things but having 4 unhealthy spark plugs was definitely not helping. 😆 Yes, probably should have started there. Once we fired it up, it's having the same issue as what the guy said it was having, where if its idling its OK, and revving is OK but once you rev it and then let it idle again, it stalls.... I did a bit of digging here and came across some robust discussions about after market BOVs with stock ECUs being trouble... which this has, so probably thats where I'm going to start. Really just wanted to say thank you to everyone who posted here suggesting things and helping me out, really appreciate it and its great to be always thinking when I run into trouble there's a place we can come to get some great insights, so thanks everyone.

Thanks guys, yeah @morboost we pulled the cover and checked the timing, looked OK? see pics attached. The wires going to the CAS have been spliced open, guessing someone was checking with multimeters at some point, also the connector doesn't feel great when pushing it in, no click and looks a bit shabby. Is there a proper way to remove and reinstall the CAS, does it need to be TDC or something? or just as long as the spline matches up its all good??? It actually fired up and ran for about 5 seconds (terribly) then stopped. Now nothing again, just cranking.

OK, some positive news, I pulled the CAS and turned it by hand and the injectors pulsed. When I put it back in and cranked, it tried to start, so now its spluttering trying to start, but still no start.... Previously its just been cranking and no spluttering. Could it be the timing is out or the sensor is stuffed?

OK so we've kicked the can down the road a little bit more this weekend. Turns out there is no injector pulse either, the tacho doesn't move when cranking. One of the green relays was a bit sus near the ECU so Im going to replace that this week. We tried a couple different ignitors, we're getting 12v at the coil plugs, but no spark. So thinking maybe CAS??? There is power to the CAS. EDIT: I ran a fault code check using the jumper wire and engine light flash method, and it came back with 55... which is No Malfunction??

@GTSBoy Thank you so much for that detailed explanation, that is really helpful!!! Makes me realise how much more I don't know Here's the last frame of the video which shows his test results (attached)... I don't get any readings doing what he did. The only resistance reading I get is when I bridge two pins on B > E... ie. B (Pin 1 + Pin 2) > E... I have an auto electrician coming on the weekend again, so i'll get him to run some tests on it, I am very much out of my comfort zone. Really appreciate your time to explain it clearly.

OK got the new ECU today, hooked it up, and still crank and no spark. So managed to get a different (second hand) ignitor module.. still no spark. However, I tested the new ignitor module using this guy's youtube video as a guide and I couldn't detect any resistance from any of the pins so it could be a dud also?? I couldnt get any resistance readings from any of the pins on the old one also... Maybe Im doing it wrong? Ugh.

OK here's the MAF, I am assuming this is the original??? Thanks @Duncan I'll double check that earth. Sounds like Splitfire coils are definitely next on the list.

Thanks so much, that's good to know, they'll probably be the next thing to replace by the sounds of it. Thanks a lot for the detailed info and taking the time, really appreciate it.

@morboost Yep it has an ignitor like that, its just not mounted properly, it's just flopping around up the back, so will have to mount it nicely... Good pickup on the coils, they are SuperSpark SSCP-RB1 (https://www.streettuned.com.au/shop/uncategorised/super-spark-coil-packs-rb20det-rb25det-rb26dett-a31-r32-r33-gtr/) Are they OK???

Yeah he was clear that it was not running. He's not the one that did any of this, he didn't have it very long and just lost interest in fixing it up. I'll hit him up to see if he can find out what ECU it used to have. So aftermarket ECUs don't use the MAF sensors?

Yeah got a factory one on the way, just really trying to get this thing fired up. I looked up what a Nistune ECU looked like and it definitely didn't have the extra board soldered into it, so must be a stock ECU I guess? I am thinking it had an aftermarket ECU at some point and was removed to use somewhere else and they just put the stock one in when they sold it or something. Link/Haltech are probably where we are headed I think.

OK I'll pick up a stock ECU and go from there. Thanks for explaining that, appreciate it.

Recently bought an R32 drift car as a father son project. Was running rough a few days before we saw it, have a video of it, sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere. Not running when we got it though. We went through some basic diagnosis, fuel pump is priming, injectors are pulsing, but no spark. Checked all the grounds we could find, swapped out all the fuses for new ones, still no go. Got an auto-electrician out on the weekend, tried to crank, no crank!!!!! Traced it back to a dodgy battery terminal, once he replaced that we had crank back. There was a lot of wiring from previous things installed on the car that he removed to clean it up and he fixed up some earths and other wiring, but still no spark. He opened the ECU and it looked OK except for a little dark spot near a capacitor, after testing it a bit more he came to the conclusion that the ECU is probably the issue. So next step is to find a replacement ECU. The factory ECU is 23710-04U01 MEC-R126 27C256 (#22) and thats the one that is currently in it. There is one on Marketplace at the moment near me, however it a 'Tomei tuned' ECU. Can I use this? or has this been mapped to something in the previous car and if I just drop it in it could damage something? Thanks

Yeah the Drift R wheels look awesome. They are pitted though, wonder if I can fix that somehow.

Thanks so much for the wiring diagram, that'll come in handy for sure!! Yeah looks good from a distance, and for a drift car it's better than what I expected, except for the rail condition, I expected that. Bit of bog here and there in the panels but not too bad, we've nicknamed it Bogzilla. I'll make a new thread after the weekend to give an update, hopefully we can get it running this weekend.

Hey thanks! Yeah it's a bit of a basket case for sure, very rough, interior is pretty well stripped, no roof lining and A/B/C pillars, sunroof leaks, missing lots of switches and trim etc. Body panels are rough, had a bit of a hard life, chassis rails are pretty well stuffed. It's cranking but no spark, injectors are pulsing. So maybe faulty ECU, ECCS relay or ignitor??? although I think the ignitor is OK. Or could be a bad earth or fuse or something simple??? It never is... the wiring is a bit 'how you going'. Got an auto electrician coming on the weekend to give us a hand. Can't just throw parts at it, parts are expensive!!! Garret Turbo with HKS rear Tial 38mm external wasegate Spitfire coil packs ARP head studs PWR intercooler, radiator, oil cooler Braided power steering and oil lines Custom welded charge pipes Blitz boost controller PWR catch can GKtech brake hardline delete kit HKS coilovers Bride seats Walbro 460 fuel pump The blue plate on the engine bay says E-HCR32 and RB20DET 1998... what's the go with 1998???

Hey, new guy here... my teenage son is into drifting, picked up an R32 manual coupe drift car. Trying to learn what I can about it, and work on it together to get it going again (currently not running). It's all a bit daunting, we're coming from dirtbikes so its a bit of a jump to this, definitely out of our comfort zone. cheers.