Chris_Guthrie

30amp*

Issue resolved. So I was driving a couple weeks ago and noticed everytime I got on or off the highway (long right hand turns) the car would bog for a second and then pick back up. Decided then to just change the fuel pump. In doing so when I pulled out the fuel pump I noticed that the fuel strainer was very dirty on the bottom. Additionally, there was a little rust in the tank. The fuel strainer was only partially seated on the bottom of the pump which I was surprised to see was an AEM 340. I removed the fuel filter and it was clean coming out the out end and straight rust water coming out of the feed side. I changed the fuel filter and replaced the fuel pump. While I was there I went ahead and installed radium studs in the fuel hat and rewired the fuel pump with the relay mod, correctly this time. Used 12ga straight from the battery with a 20amp relay and inline fuse. Car feels much better. Only thing I have left to get it up to par is replacing the exhaust gasket and installing new exhaust mani studs to fix the missing one and the broken one. Once I do that I'll be investing in some data logging equipment. Looking forward to enjoying this 32 this summer. Wanted to thank all of you guys for all of your help and post the fix in case anyone is dealing with a similar issue.

I got another MAF and installed it. Idle misfire was still present. Finally got the tank low enough to refuel and did so. Did a short drive to warm the car up and no issues, pretty short drive. Going to attempt soon to take a longer drive to see. I don't think the MAF fixed it if anything, definitely thinking it was fuel related. As soon as I put fresh fuel in the car felt so much better. But, still need a longer test drive to verify. I'll report back once done. I'm definitely going to be getting monitoring and tuning parts soon as my next upgrade (decided on the link after talking with my tuner), just been real tight with just purchasing the car and sudden onset of issues. I've also ordered a new exhaust stud kit and gasket to fix that obvious problem. Once it's back up to par I'll start with the goodies

Both of those things are on my to do but not quite in a position to do that just yet until I can at least get it running back to stock. Going to work on getting the exhaust manifold gasket and studs replaced first, an obvious need it now. Then I'll try out the new maf and see hownthat does. After that I'm thinking cas if I'm still having the same issues. Still need to run the fuel out and refuel I'll change the fuel filter tomorrow along with cleaning the iacv with carb cleaner. If all else fails I'm going to get a serial port and see if I can get some sort of data on what the ecu is seeing when the issue is happening but really hoping one of the methods above work out first. After I get a good base I'm going link but have to save for that so it'll be a while for that based on my tuners suggestions. Definitely need the exhaust leak fixed first though car has always fallen flat after about 4-4500 rpm since I've had it and suspecting that's the issue. Then I can move forward with the rest.

I'm thinking this but when I checked the fuel tank the fuel strainer under the pump was as clean as new. I do have a new fuel filter I'm going to replace that hose and filter just to be safe because maybe something did get through the strainer but I'm also going to attempt at some point next weekend to get the remaining fuel out and fill it up with some high quality fuel.

Just got back from a quick test and I'm really thinking that maybe the fuel line is sucking air in. I noticed when I removed the fuel pressure tester the hose on the fuel filter was easily spin-able. When it was twisting I noticed a slight change in the engine rhythm. Took it out to see and did fine again without boost and for the most part did fine in boost until I got a big hiccup about half throttle going up a hill. Going to investigate that further when I get more time. Probably just replace the fuel filter and the hose and see if there is any changes. Was able to go about 10m away today with the car feeling fine, actually felt a little stronger im guessing thats the splitfire coils (still an intermittent misfire at idle). That's good to know at least. Guess I can rule out the pump. Also thinking could be bad fuel though I filled up my bike (11' R1) at the same place the other day with the same 93 octane and got a crazy misfire that I never had on that before too.

Fuel pressure increases to about 48 when blipping the throttle while running

Latest update, reinstalled the evap canister. No change. Disconnected the fpr vacuum hose, no change. Hooked up the fuel pressure tester. 42psi when primed, consistent with what I've been seeing online. When running, drops to 34psi. Ideas on this? Also, when I did my fuel pump rewire, I tested hot before tapping. I attempted at first to just unplug my relay to relieve fuel pressure and the pump still primed and ran. Thought that was strange. Unplugged the connector in the trunk by the fuel hat and was able to relieve fuel pressure that way. Starting to wonder if I jacked something up with my wiring because shouldn't be priming without the relay hooked up.

That's good to hear I'll stick with the stock I hear they are good for 500hp and I'm only shooting for 350-400 once I can get this thing sorted and get to actually building it.

Any recommendations on a decent replacement manifold that doesnt break the bank or require additional mods for the stock turbo setup? I figure if I'm going to pull the manifold off anyway to fix the studs might as well replace it.

So I checked the turbo out today. Very minimum play at all just enough for the oil to take up when it's running. I did find an exhaust leak at the manifold. 1 stud all the way in the front is missing and the one all the way in the back is broken off. Front has visible signs of an exhaust leak. I'll fix that soon but that's not my problem still. I also found that the nipple coming off the turbo had the hose capped off and a hose ran from the j-pipe by the bov going to the wastegate. I removed that hose and capped that nipple and put the turbo nipple hose back on the wastegate. There was a ton of oil residue all through the charge side of the intercooler piping going to the throttle bodg. I'm thinking that's from the pcv. Doesn't seem to be coming from the turbo that was all clean on the pipes side. Haven't had a chance to check fuel pressure yet, haven't had time been having to pull a lot of doubles at work. I did pick up some carb cleaner to clean the iacv but wanted to make sure I had a fresh gasket in case the old one rips when I pull it off. I'm waiting on a MAF that was supposed to be here today but delayed to Monday. Have a double Monday and Friday and work all of next weekend so going to try to find some time in the middle of the week to try that out. Did about a 10m trip around the block today and towards the end the issues were coming back. Fingers crossed on this MAF but if not just going to throw a fuel pressure gauge in and see where I'm at. Did notice today that I can definitely hear the injectors pulsing. Very audible clicking coming from them. Assuming that's normal? Should also mean CAS is functioning somewhat properly. After it warmed up when I started it the intermittent misfires came in again. Did start doing that before it was fully warmed up.

Well considering I have the exact same problem with that as the original one I don't think that the ignitor is the problem. I would imagine that this being such an uncommon problem the possibility of getting a new ignitor that is bad in the same way as the old one has to be very slim. I'll definitely pull everything apart this weekend and check the turbo out. Got quite a bit of things to check out Saturday like fuel pressure and the pcv so I'll report back once I do that. Thanks everyone for all the replies this is all really helpful

I'll rent a fuel pressure tester soon and report back.

It has a separate fused 10ga wire running from the battery to the relay in the trunk. 10ga on the ground also.

Actually I did the fuel pump rewire 2 days after the issues started. Grinded away the paint and grounded it to the chassis behind the right panel in the trunk.