DraftySquash

Hahaa yup. The last person used the same screwdriver and hammer method to undo the lock. But I don’t think they got the memo on being gentle 😂 there is one mystery left, this suspicious stain on the left is….suspicious I don’t understand how it could have happened

Good news!!! Changed the O ring today and I’ve got the “pssshhhh” back when I open the fuel cap 😂🙌🏼🙌🏼 It was 100% the O ring because that bloody thing was inside the fuel tank 😂😂😂😂😂 Fitting new fuel pump was a pain as always since the DW is a bit longer than stock. But she’s running!!! ❤️

@Kinkstaah FTW! Thank you... hahaha mine is in stock-ish boost and the use case is not to chase power. I mainly want to make sure the 20 year old pump is changed

New DW300 Fuel pump, new fuel tank lid, new plastic lock all on the way!!! I'll be on ramen noodles for a week but at least my car will have a fresh fuel pump in over 20 years! Thank you everyone for your input ❤️

Really? I see ads for all the JDM parts on the bottom of threads

Lol.... Google ads are already on it!

Short and chunky mate! 🤣 Yeah I should be able to sit in the boot without much issue Thanks @Kinkstaah yeah I'd be really keen to get this as well and do it all the weekend after! I prefer one that won't need me soldering or crimping new plugs 😅 ... and I might just look for a spare GTT fuel lid lol

Awesome!! Yes, I watched a few videos and a few would crank the engine while the pump was unplugged to remove most of the fuel on the lines lol.. yeah I have seen/heard that. I do plan to use a trusty screwdriver. I was going to get this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toledo-toledo-fuel-vacuum-hose-disconnect-pliers-301173/670955.html?srsltid=AfmBOopMfURCj-DXVF1BK9Gp08j2KMhHTHXKiNT7axnN94ucNvianAy7 I watched one video where the guy broke the plastic nipple when trying to remove the hose. My luck would highly suggest that will happen to me without a proper tool 🤣

Another weekend and another project I have questions about.... I bought a fuel tank sender O ring to install on the car because I'm quite sus on what I've got now. 1. No "whooosh" sound when opening fuel cap 2. If I fill up full tank, there will be a small leak under the car and it comes from the top of the fuel tank, dripping along the side. Stops after a short while 3. Hot days = 50/50 chance to get high as a kite inside the cabin if the car was in the sun for too long This is what I bought: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/1734279900 My plan was to just replace the O ring but I've got some questions: 1. Does the whole fuel pump assembly need to come out for me to replace the O ring? Or, could I unplug all the connectors and fuel lines at the top, take off the twisty part (17343) and put in the O ring from the top? 2. Is it a very common thing for everyone to just change the pump whenever doing this? I see the Walbro 255 gets thrown in a lot but I've got no issues with my pump so far. When I did the tune, I asked the guy to check my fuel pressure and he said there were no issues too. But is it just a good idea to change to the 255 anyway as the old unit may have been in there for so long? The 255 seems to be a direct fit for GTT (I got no soldering iron)

Yup, bought this bad boy and hopefully it will be ready to pickup today. Had $5 credit on top of it so it worked out really well!

and I thought size mattered 😝 At this point I may either pray to the Afterpay gods and get a torque wrench or attach a water bucket to the breaker bar. I appreciate the help though 🙏🏾

Also, if anyone has a torque wrench around Williams Landing area and can lend it to me for like 5 mins - I got 4 bottles of Furphy left and I’ll throw that in with a Happy meal 😂

So today I decided to bleed my brake fluid, which meant to the wheels came off the car at my garage for the first time. I only had a 90cm breaker bar with me and I noticed that some 1 or 2 lug nuts were a bit hard to get loose (from when the shop did the coilovers) Now.... when it came to putting them back on, I didn't want to put all my weight and overtighten them. So I hand tightened as much as possible and then put normal pressure on the edge of the breaker bar and tightened it until I couldn't turn it anymore without putting in an effort. Do you think that is tight enough? Or is that still too tight? They are tighter than finger tight. Last thing I want is to have them strip or warp sh*t. But hard times mean I can't just go down to Supercheap and get a torque wrench 🥺

Can confirm solenoid makes no difference. I finally removed the solenoid and the wire off my engine loom and there is no issue with boost. Keep in mind, this is the solenoid, and I've got a Nistune. After the boost controller, I ran the car for a day with the solenoid unplugged - no issue. So then I just ripped the whole thing out. Like @GTSBoy mentioned before, the ECU just sends an earth signal for the 2-stage boost. And looking at the wire going into the solenoid, that just had 2 standard wires and did not look important 🤣 As for boost sensor: I saw somewhere that the vacuum line the gauge uses is at the back of the engine on the driver side. I never touched that but assume ECU uses that??? (maybe? Just assuming)