DraftySquash

Can confirm solenoid makes no difference. I finally removed the solenoid and the wire off my engine loom and there is no issue with boost. Keep in mind, this is the solenoid, and I've got a Nistune. After the boost controller, I ran the car for a day with the solenoid unplugged - no issue. So then I just ripped the whole thing out. Like @GTSBoy mentioned before, the ECU just sends an earth signal for the 2-stage boost. And looking at the wire going into the solenoid, that just had 2 standard wires and did not look important 🤣 As for boost sensor: I saw somewhere that the vacuum line the gauge uses is at the back of the engine on the driver side. I never touched that but assume ECU uses that??? (maybe? Just assuming)

hahaha.. yup

Speaking of diverting threads, my second ever NISMO purchase…. I think they look pretty classy and just wanted to share 😅 PS: 1st was the oil drain plug 😂

Fob is all cleaned up and it’s working well!! The amount of Vegemite looking sh*t that was in there is mind blowing

Wow boyyy that is nasty!!! I never dropped this key in anything but it’s got some condensation

Thanks everyone! I'll take the remote apart to clean the contacts and see how it goes.

Ok, can confirm. if you use it like a normal human being in the real world, it works fine. it only starts crossing wires if I keep using the fob over and over again in a very short period. So if I just chill the f**k out, it works 😂😂

So... the fob I had for my Skyline always had this issue where the "Unlock" button worked with no issues but the "Lock" button did nothing (and I always had to lock with the key) I thought I'd try resetting and pairing the key to the car today to see if that fixes the issue. I did the standard steps to program a key but realised my central locking was doing its own thing from time to time. 1st time: The driver-side doors would not lock or unlock when using the fob. No issues with the key. I figured it was the right time to change the battery in the fob so decided to go get one. When I went to the shop all doors locked and unlocked with the fob (while it had the old battery 🙃) 2nd time: When I locked the car, it would lock itself and immediately unlock. If I unlocked it, it would unlock and immediately lock. 3rd time: After a bit of cursing and praying, that weird bug stopped. But then the rear passenger door started being a pain. It wouldn't really follow what the fob was asking it to do. Sometimes even using the key would not do what I wanted. So I'd lock the car with the key and all doors would lock, but the rear passenger lock didn't do anything at all. And then after a few moments, it would work again. Is there a fuse that I should be looking at? or, is this one of those things where the door card needs to come off and some unit needs to be replaced? It just seems to happen from time to time and if I give her some space and come back later, there are no issues 🤦‍♂️ Also, should I try to program the fob again to the car just to see if that solves it?

Me coming to check the thread to see if my manual boost controller was set up correct......

Hahaha thanks mate That's very cool! But I've got a lunch booked on Sunday with the fam bam. But I might come to the first meetup at least. Will PM you

It’s time to take her out more on weekends!! First thing is a wash. I’ve got my citizenship ceremony this weekend and I’m going to roll up in her 😂😝 Next up will be getting the mechanic to look at my fuel sender O ring around mid-March. I’m saving up for a different front bar so that would be after that. But she’s running happy, so I can sleep easy and slow down. Not chasing power for now. yeah, I’d like to take her down to some meets. but when you’re not on social media anymore, it’s not easy to find those out on time 😂

It was roughly 3.5 hours. car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune. The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂

Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me. the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc. I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB. Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges.

That was at 11.6 PSI. Apparently it was already peaking around 9 PSI just from intake and exhaust mods.

So quick update. got my Nistune done from CMS and was a smooth drive back. Shane at CMS is good with his work and car runs fine. Was worried my fuel pressure might be cooked as my fuel leaks on a full tank 😂 but apparently she held pressure. I asked him to install the boost controller so I don’t mess anything up, and he was happy to do it. Old solenoid is still in there but capped off. I will remove that from the bracket next weekend. for now…. I am happy with my 168 KW 😂😂 All she got is the 3” turbo back exhaust and the BC

Me, if I ever floor the car

Currently when the car is parked at home, I have the added security of a galah sleeping next to it 😂😂 that bird is louuuuuud But yeah, I want the viper system soon and saving up for it. Probably the next one after nistune

I genuinely bought this car because I never got to enjoy it when I got my first GTT in 2015. I’m a simple man, give me a skyline that goes reliably from A to B and I will be happy. I mainly like driving it when the roads are quiet so you can relax. Nothing wrong with a few mods here and there but it wouldn’t be instagram worthy 😂

@Kinkstaah I've got my list.. but most of them is to do if I ever win the lotto

@Kinkstaah yeah I initially checked with Chequered as I've used them with a previous car. But they have stopped sourcing and installing Nistune chips. They only do tuning now. I did not want to pull out my ECU and send it away somewhere to have the chip installed. That would mean no driving the Skyline

I think a 60-90 mins drive is worth it, if the mechanic is good and has experience. that’s what I’ve heard about CMS, so I’ll let you know how I go after Monday

lol I know!! I’m actually staying over at a mate’s place in SE the night before. not because I don’t like the long drive. I just don’t want to drive from West to Seaford around 8am on a Monday 😂 traffic would be wild. The Skyline actually does the West to SE trip without issues. My family is on that side.

It’s Shane at CMS performance doing the tune. CMS performance was the only place in VIC I could find that would supply, install and tune (and had good feedback) Yeah that might be a good idea 😂 Less chances of fkn it up

@GTSBoy that’s good information and thanks for sharing that. I’ve read the GTT has 2 stages of boost? 5psi or so at lower RPMs and then 7psi. So I assume, with a boost controller it will be one standard pressure. I got no issue with that until I invest in an electronic boost controller. With the setup after the boost controller, should I still keep the solenoid plugged in to power? Just so the ECU is happy? Or does unplugging it and completely removing it cause no issues? I’ve got myself booked in for a Nistune install and tune next Monday so pretty excited 😝

Hi everyone, Apologies in advance if this feels like a topic covered multiple times. I'm only asking because some of the old topics I found are missing images now. I'm in the process of getting a manual boost controller (BC). Nothing fancy, just getting a manual one for now as I don't plan to go crazy with it and would not go over 10 PSI. My car is not jacked up on boost steroids to do crazy numbers. I want to understand the OEM setup of the boost solenoid and vacuum lines on the R34 GTT so I know what needs to be changed when I do install the BC. I sketched the current setup to the best I could see and it's on the diagram attached. If the boost controller 'Wastegate Arrow' goes from nipple 1 to 2. My understanding is that the red vacuum line's "F" connector-end should be connected to BC nipple #2? Nipple #1 is meant to have the "pressure source" so what vacuum line would that be? Is it the green vacuum line? From what I have read here, the OEM boost solenoid is not used at this point. So that can come out and then I can just plug the nipple that usually connects to the blue vacuum line? So would the final setup look something like this? Thanks in advance. I don't want to already be knee-deep into pulling out vacuum lines before understanding this. I'm a noob when it comes to boost setups so trying to learn as I go.