DraftySquash

Great to know! The guys from The Skyline Shed are going to sort it out and send what I ordered anyway. Turns out their supplier sent them the wrong stock. But it's good to know I "can" put this in if needed

Hi everyone, I bought the Redline diff oil and the seller has sent me Redline 75W90NS even though that’s not what’s pictured. I’ve already booked a hoist to go and change my diff tomorrow but I’m not sure if the NS is ok for the rear diff in a R34 GTT I think the NS does not have any slip modifiers so would that be an issue? thanks in advance

oh whooops.. does that mean there should be something clipped here? (bottom of image)

@Kinkstaah So... I took your advice and looked under the bonnet... is this where the rubber strip should be? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

@Milkmun Yeah I was looking at the Gktech one as well and just holds on with the 2 bolts at the middle and no front section that goes upwards. I've watched one of the Youtube installations of it and the only thing with that is that I'd need to drill a hole for the screw that holds the oil cooler in A/T. @Kinkstaah It's purely just to make the bay look cleaner and not have a gaping hole at the front 🤣 I'm getting some bad mojo from this panel and have a feeling it only works in S1 (even though they never mention it)

Hi there, Does anyone here have the carbonetics slam panel installed on their R34 GTT? Or used to have one and got some pics of how it sat? https://carbonetics.net/products/1999-2002-nissan-skyline-r34-gtt-cooling-slam-panel?srsltid=AfmBOoo6Uz0nuxGI3qC0sn56KJI6PMgh0OvV-pbegsPDHTtTxz4IMljc I’m just trying to get an idea of how they sit once installed but these guys have no pics. biggest question I’m trying to figure out is what the hell the 3 holes at the front of the panel are 😂 and where they bolt Thanks in advance

problem solved!!!

ohhh nvm - apparently that's for the thermo fan.. guess that I will just look past that and pray my engine never gets that hot 🙏🏾

@Kinkstaah yeah might just be me being paranoid with how much can go wrong! @Duncan Looks like I'll get replacement hoses for the radiator soon after the radiator then!!! @GTSBoy Is this the right radiator? It just says R34 and R33 so I'm assuming they all have the same radiator specs? I read in a guide that there is a sensor on the bottom left? Do those still fit as well?

I know this has been discussed before, but I can see the Fenix radiator is 1.1 bar. https://fenixradiators.com.au/products/nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-gt-rfull-alloy-performance-radiator?variant=40947446251678 1. Should I be worried about the extra 0.2 bar pressure that will be going through the whole cooling system? Car is just a daily, only time it goes over 3K revs is when I'm merging on the highway or sick of being stuck behind a slow car 🤣 2. If I'm so worried, do I just get a 0.9 bar cap?

OOOO I do like that Fenix radiator. Does it change the capacity of coolant with a different radiator?

Looking to buy a new radiator cap for my Skyline because I think this one is shot. I've got the part# 2143001F02 and it seems this same part is also the radiator cap for the Nissan Sunny B13? https://goodstate.com.au/parts/72f01c08ec5ae1878e258c43e35b81aa?srsltid=AfmBOorhguaKBQN0nFfCaM7kjdreG3TrS4nbB3VWZWw8iFXGJtFP-jtw I mean, the part number matches, so I'm inclined to not overthink it. These are some of the only guys in Aus I could find. Most radiator caps I find are 1.2 and I would feel more comfortable replacing with a stock 0.9 cap. I just wanted to get some kind of confirmation since their website does not show the RB25 or the Skyline as compatible. 🤷🏽‍♂️

ohhh duuh! My bad @GTSBoy I read the part about turning it and completely blanked out on the "Pull it out" part 🙄

Thanks for that! That is good to hear. I didn't want to try pull something out that should not be pulled out from the block 🤣

Thanks @GTSBoy - I will see if I can rotate it. The problem is that the cover hits the circular pillar that holds the 2 valves - so unless I pull the piece out, it might still hit it. @Kinkstaah Yes I did take all the bolts off 🤣 When I first saw this cover, I thought to myself "Oh I have not seen this in any videos, but how smart!! It keeps any junk from going into the coilpacks" Pretty soon, I reverted my thought 😅 Worst case scenario, I'll take it down to a mechanic to have the spark plugs changed for me. But I will ask them to keep the old spark plugs around so I can ake some pics

For the love of everything that is holy, how do you guys manage to get this thing off?????!!!! I wanted to change my spark plugs today. Got everything, watched all the tutorials I could find, and read all the forums in here on steps. And then I got blocked on this coilpack cover!! Talk about feeling defeated 😕 Most guides just say it should come off after a bit of jiggling, but nothing I did worked and I didn't find any video tutorials where the person actually had to deal with the cover - it wasn't even there in most cases. I took off everything above it. The wires towards the firewall had brackets connected to them so I unscrewed it from the cover so I could move them around. I took off the hose circled below and still nothing. I thought maybe I could get more leverage by loosening the bracket that holds the engine cover, but that didn't make a difference either. I was sliding the cover back towards the firewall to lift it up, then pulling the firewall side towards the passenger side to try get it off, but it kept hitting the piece highlighted in blue. I don't think this car has ever had any OEM parts changed (the black rubber connectors really need to be changed, they are rock hard), so even the wires near the firewall are iffy and I'm worried about breaking them - I've already got one OEM clamp with a wonky screw that doesn't do anything! Would anyone have a link to any tutorial that shows how to take this cover off? I just put everything back to how it was but I'd like to get the spark plugs changed for peace of mind. Most videos I found are for removing the cover in an RB26. The strut bar is the only thing I did not take off but the cover is not even reaching that to be the cause for all this. Same story with the rubber piece for the throttle body - did no difference. I did have a peek inside the cover and saw that the coilpacks look nice and clean, and even got a cable tie around them and the plug (except for one piece of corrugated wire protection tube that seems to have been living there for while 😡). But I really want to see the state of the spark plugs and get the damn things changed! Appreciate any help you can give me. 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾

Just placed the order with Kudos today and THEN emailed the sales team again and they confirmed the filter pictured below is what I’ll get. So now looking forward to a fluid change and buying about 12-16L of Castrol Transmax Z 😂😂

Hey @sycotixwhere did you get the spark plugs replaced? was that somewhere in Hoppers crossing too? I’m planning to go to Backlash Automotive in Hoppers when my clovers come but if you found a decent garage on this side to do spark plugs, I’d be interested too. PS: also been reading the drama with the car at the start. Glad you got that sorted

Thanks a lot @Rezz that does look similar. I do like the look of side steps compared to the side skirts but they seem near impossible to find for the OEM skirt 😂

Anyone know what these side skirts for the R34 sedan are?

Well, it was going so well.... felt good about finally getting this screw out - followed a thread in here about getting the dash out, put my new LEDs in and voila - IT ALL WORKS EXCEPT FOR ONE !! 🤣 (right-side) So I did the whole process of flipping the LED around to see if that would work - Nope Tried putting a. LED that was working on the left side of the dash - nothing I thought maybe it was the bulb socket - switched back to the normal T6.5 bulb - it works - so not the socket Thought maybe it was the LED - so put the LED in my triple gauge that does work - it works Then I took a T6.5 off the triple gauge (which I know is working), put it on the right - nothing Switched an LED and socket off with another on the dash - nothing For some reason, my right side bulb and socket just do not like to have a LED. So I've reverted it all and gone back to my warm white, sleepy mode dash 😅 I must say - even thought only 2.5 of my gauges had the blue LED, it still did look pretty keeewwl.. But at the end of the day, I need some LEDs that have better coverage and distribute light than the ones I got but it's so damn hard to find T6.5s And now that I've cried enough about not being able to switch the dash, I'm ok... Note: I've seen most tutorials say it's T5s in the back but they 100% are not on mine. T5 was just wiggling around all loosey-goosey

SUCCESS!!! managed to fit a small flathead in there to push the screw up