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Everything posted by DraftySquash
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So quick update. got my Nistune done from CMS and was a smooth drive back. Shane at CMS is good with his work and car runs fine. Was worried my fuel pressure might be cooked as my fuel leaks on a full tank 😂 but apparently she held pressure. I asked him to install the boost controller so I don’t mess anything up, and he was happy to do it. Old solenoid is still in there but capped off. I will remove that from the bracket next weekend. for now…. I am happy with my 168 KW 😂😂 All she got is the 3” turbo back exhaust and the BC
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Me, if I ever floor the car
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Currently when the car is parked at home, I have the added security of a galah sleeping next to it 😂😂 that bird is louuuuuud But yeah, I want the viper system soon and saving up for it. Probably the next one after nistune
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I genuinely bought this car because I never got to enjoy it when I got my first GTT in 2015. I’m a simple man, give me a skyline that goes reliably from A to B and I will be happy. I mainly like driving it when the roads are quiet so you can relax. Nothing wrong with a few mods here and there but it wouldn’t be instagram worthy 😂
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@Kinkstaah I've got my list.. but most of them is to do if I ever win the lotto
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@Kinkstaah yeah I initially checked with Chequered as I've used them with a previous car. But they have stopped sourcing and installing Nistune chips. They only do tuning now. I did not want to pull out my ECU and send it away somewhere to have the chip installed. That would mean no driving the Skyline
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I think a 60-90 mins drive is worth it, if the mechanic is good and has experience. that’s what I’ve heard about CMS, so I’ll let you know how I go after Monday
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lol I know!! I’m actually staying over at a mate’s place in SE the night before. not because I don’t like the long drive. I just don’t want to drive from West to Seaford around 8am on a Monday 😂 traffic would be wild. The Skyline actually does the West to SE trip without issues. My family is on that side.
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It’s Shane at CMS performance doing the tune. CMS performance was the only place in VIC I could find that would supply, install and tune (and had good feedback) Yeah that might be a good idea 😂 Less chances of fkn it up
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@GTSBoy that’s good information and thanks for sharing that. I’ve read the GTT has 2 stages of boost? 5psi or so at lower RPMs and then 7psi. So I assume, with a boost controller it will be one standard pressure. I got no issue with that until I invest in an electronic boost controller. With the setup after the boost controller, should I still keep the solenoid plugged in to power? Just so the ECU is happy? Or does unplugging it and completely removing it cause no issues? I’ve got myself booked in for a Nistune install and tune next Monday so pretty excited 😝
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Hi everyone, Apologies in advance if this feels like a topic covered multiple times. I'm only asking because some of the old topics I found are missing images now. I'm in the process of getting a manual boost controller (BC). Nothing fancy, just getting a manual one for now as I don't plan to go crazy with it and would not go over 10 PSI. My car is not jacked up on boost steroids to do crazy numbers. I want to understand the OEM setup of the boost solenoid and vacuum lines on the R34 GTT so I know what needs to be changed when I do install the BC. I sketched the current setup to the best I could see and it's on the diagram attached. If the boost controller 'Wastegate Arrow' goes from nipple 1 to 2. My understanding is that the red vacuum line's "F" connector-end should be connected to BC nipple #2? Nipple #1 is meant to have the "pressure source" so what vacuum line would that be? Is it the green vacuum line? From what I have read here, the OEM boost solenoid is not used at this point. So that can come out and then I can just plug the nipple that usually connects to the blue vacuum line? So would the final setup look something like this? Thanks in advance. I don't want to already be knee-deep into pulling out vacuum lines before understanding this. I'm a noob when it comes to boost setups so trying to learn as I go.
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WTB: R34 S2 Front grill (this guy is asking mental prices)
DraftySquash replied to DraftySquash's topic in Wanted to Buy
Yeah what gives? Nobody wants to keep the S2 bar, but I need to sell a kidney to get a piece lol Hahahaa ooooo O.o an Altia is classy, but I'm also looking to save for a Z-Tune style front bar from JSAI. I just wanted to paint the front grill until I could save money for that. Wanted to keep a spare handy in case I hate what I do 🤣 and if it looks good, I might not change bumpers -
WTB: R34 S2 Front grill (this guy is asking mental prices)
DraftySquash replied to DraftySquash's topic in Wanted to Buy
Bloody hell!! Really. $600 for a s2 bar with grill and $500 for just the grill 😂😂😂 -
R34 GTT long weekend project
DraftySquash replied to DraftySquash's topic in Exterior & Interior Styling
Success! battery voltage needle calibration is a bit off but oh well- 1 reply
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Wanted to clean the film behind the triple gauge so the lights show through better. Progress so far….
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Correct part# for coilpacks for a S2 ER34
DraftySquash replied to DraftySquash's topic in General Maintenance
Thanks @joshuaho96 Yeah planning to buy it from these guys. I sent them an email to confirm it was genuine and not refurbished and they confirmed 🤷🏽♂️ https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=22448AA100 -
Correct part# for coilpacks for a S2 ER34
DraftySquash replied to DraftySquash's topic in General Maintenance
hahahaa @Duncan yeah that was one of the reasons I posted the link from UAE (Partsouq) I realised I'd need to sell a kidney to buy OEM but Partsouq was ~50 USD and it was quite surprising. And I was reading the full thread in here about OEM vs Splitfire vs other brands.. I honestly just want them changed to new for peace of mind. My current ones apparently have cable ties to stop it from breaking into pieces 🤣 Not done by me.....professional JDM hack done to the car from the owner in Japan lol -
Hi everyone, Trying to buy coilpacks for my S2 ER34 but getting confused because apparently the S2 coilpacks are different. (S2 have built-in igniters?) The part number I have saved for coilpacks is 22448AA100 - https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=22448AA100 Just trying to understand if this is the correct part# for S2 or if I've got the S1 here?
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RB25DET Engine Oil Dipstick Length
DraftySquash replied to DraftySquash's topic in General Maintenance
Clark Rubber FTW 😅😅 -
RB25DET Engine Oil Dipstick Length
DraftySquash replied to DraftySquash's topic in General Maintenance
Legend! Thank you @GTSBoy -
RB25DET Engine Oil Dipstick Length
DraftySquash replied to DraftySquash's topic in General Maintenance
@GTSBoy and @joshuaho96 While I have you both in here…. A side question. you know the padding that usually goes on a R34 GTT’s air box “snorkel”. It has this adhesive foam tape around it to give a tight fitment. But mine is non existent as shown in the pic below Is there any harm is just replacing it with this foam tape in Bunnings? My OCD is in overdrive every time I see that snorkel https://www.bunnings.com.au/moroday-75-x-10mm-x-1-8m-adhesive-foam-roll_p4000002 just didn’t want to make a new thread just to ask this 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾 -
RB25DET Engine Oil Dipstick Length
DraftySquash replied to DraftySquash's topic in General Maintenance
hahaha @joshuaho96 the most action it gets is when I have to drive from West to SE VIC to meet the fam. Even then, it;s on highway cruising speeds -
RB25DET Engine Oil Dipstick Length
DraftySquash replied to DraftySquash's topic in General Maintenance
Well.... that's very good to know for next time!! @GTSBoy Atleast something to remember while I try find out why my capacity is less according to the stick