CanadianGuy

I just finished fixing a similar problem on my rb20, I’d double check your AFM or the AFM wiring. Mine didn’t have 12v on the power wire, as soon as I ran a jumper wire it ran perfect. From my understanding there’s very few things that will induce that cut from the ECU so I’d be looking at the AFM for sure. Walbros are loud pumps so wouldn’t be too worried about that and it seems like you’ve checked the majority of the other spots

Not a whole lot done lately, front brakes aren’t engaging so need to get this thing back into the garage to see if I need to rebuild the calibers. Currently have the wife’s 1973 VW Van, my 2004 Mustang, and a 1994 Firebird in there I need to finish up first, the list of work never ends Stealing the 6 litre from the van and the interior from this parts Firebird for the other

Got this thing up and running properly! Traced my AFM wires and the signal back to ECU was good, ground was good but no 12v! With a jumper wire tied into what should be the 12v wire it fired right up and rev’d nice and strong! One thing down at least, now to figure out where the break or disconnect is. Tach is probably next, hopefully that’s just the signal wire from the ECU but I doubt I’m that lucky

That’s fair, my main reason for not throwing the stand alone in right this moment is money lol. Figure I’ll get the thing going as is hopefully, have some fun with it then start throwing fancy parts like that towards it down the road

Both of these options are strong possibilities, a second ECU came with the car and might be getting thrown in to diag some problems. In a perfect world I’d just say screw it and throw a stand alone in but the rb20 will probably get swapped out at some point in the future for something with a higher hp ceiling

Hey everyone! Finally after years of owning all kinds of other jdm cars (ae86, s13 with a RB swap, FC RX7, Datsun 510, 280zx etc) I’ve got my hands on a skyline! Ended up trading a Harley Road Glide for it after being in that scene for a few years. The previous owner started a lot of work but then had a bad motorcycle accident and the car sat for almost a year until I picked it up The car wasn’t running and had a massive fuel leak from a pinched injector o ring but had good compression so went about trying to get it firing up so I could drive it into the garage Turned out the fuel rail which was set up to run with an aftermarket aeromotive regulator had plugged up injectors, fired in a 2nd set that came with the car and drove it into the garage. Once getting it tucked into its spot (have a nice 46’x26’ garage) went about tackling some of runability issues. The main ones now are between my driveway and the garage the tach decided to stop working, and there seems to be a 2500ish rpm limiter being set on the car. The limiter I imagine has something to due with the butchery that is my afm wiring Seems someone decided to run new shielded wires from pin 2&4 to the ECU and hack together the remaining into the original harness for some reason. Going to clean that up and see if any of the afm’s that came with the car make it run a little happier. Speakimg of ECU this was a cool surprise Looks like Mines might have had something to do with the ECU at some point in its life. Still lots of little odds and ends to work out but couldn’t be happier!

Thanks! Tried to send you a message but I must be too new still, if you can send me one I’ll probably take that resistor off your hands

Well I definitely have a new option for a future colour, I’m a big fan of that!

Thanks everyone, it does in fact only have 2 wires so it’s the fuel pump resistor (still new to skylines and RBs as you can all tell haha) my symptoms still make sense? im getting fuel pressure at the regulator (has an aeromotive with a gauge) and can hear the pump running

Well was troubleshooting what sounded like an rpm limit being set on the car just as it was building boost and noticed my wastegate is open at idle. As I was using a prybar to put some pressure on the rod to see if I had any binding doesn’t it slip and end up hitting my fuel injector resistor mounted on the passenger side firewall HARD. Checked all my wires and everything’s good but now the car won’t start 🙃 Upon initial turn of the key it sounds like it’s about to start for a split second before it just cranks. Strong smell of fuel, car has spark. Now I’m assuming my smacking of the resistor messed something up internally and the injectors are dumping a ton of fuel (plugs are wet and even QuickStart/ether won’t do anything after cranking a few times it’s so flooded) This make sense in other people’s minds before I drop the money on a new resistor? Car went from idling mint to not starting at all after that one slip

Thanks! It definitely looks a little better now. Hit it with some bumper paint for the time being, the entire car (minus the carbon fenders) will be getting either resprayed or wrapped at some point but that bumper just stood out too much lol

Thanks! I’m actually from Prince Edward Island, the NB plate on the ground was from one of the many old projects around

Hey everyone! After having all kinds of other jdm cars in the past I finally got my hands on a skyline! Say hello to my 1990 GTST! Ended up trading a Harley for it which I was trying to sell to fund a skyline, normally things don’t work out that easily lol. Lots of little odds and ends done to it which I’m still finding. Biggest thing that needed to be done was fix a massive fuel leak which was bad enough that the engine wasn’t starting. Ended up only being a pinched O-Ring and dirty injectors. Swapped a 2nd set in that came with the car and drove it into the garage Next up will be cleaning up the underside (lots of old rubberized undercoating everywhere) giving it a good coat of POR15 and getting some of the smaller things taken care of