knackaz

hi would anyone have a single GTR indicator they would like to sell as one of mine has gone missing. also the Skyline diamond looking 'S' badge if available. thanks

hi would anyone have a front bar to suit a 1994 33GTST somewhere, assuming its a series one and i have read that a s2 is not compatible, preferably any bar with the round holes for indicators rather than the square ones. Think there are a couple of different styles like this. i know i can get a brand spankin new 1 for $400 but am just needing anything at all thats in better nick than mine so its more appealing if i decide to sell her. Thanks in advance

yep thats it tango, white smoke is smoke not vapor. so when/if its water it will obviously be burning with the oil there fore white smoke, not vapor col-gtsx, agreed also,cant knock trade school teachers who've done engines all thier lives now can we, kwazza11:)

what exactly is bad air, and how does it goin to the injectors have any relation??? though if you do find any, am after an afm for 33gtst also. cheers

white isnt oil, blue is mate. more likely water/coolant.....

would anyone mind briefly explaining difference between the different model skylines please (dont mean between gtst/gtr etc tho) cheers

car has been off the road following a rebuild, but the problem was there previously unfortunately. but i had only had the car a few weeks

have some major issue with my gtst. am struggling to even get up a hill without a cruising run up at it at present. once the boost needs to raise the car just labours/surges with no power. does this even on flat surfaces if trying to boost as well. any help appreciated. could it be the afm , considiering it runs ok under normal driving conditions&just like a bag o shit under load? yeah fuel pump is next thing, have hardwired as per the way this thread has stated, but no noticeable difference really. if the pump is stuffed will it still able to be pumpin fuel readily enough, can get the car going fine like probably about 140km/h on the straight, but as soonas try for thaT LITTLE BIT MORE, SEE THE BOOST GAUGE CREEP OFF ZERO, THEN IT JUST DOESNT SEEM TO KNOW WHATS GOING ON AND JUST COUGHS and splutters, the boost will go then drop, go then drop etc, but with no power sort of thinmg. is hard to xplain

yeah will give that a go at lunch and c how it goes. thanks for that, just funny that it doesnt noticeably seem to affect the steering in any major way when the light appears hey.

can anyone help with a transaltion for all the fuses in the box under driverside dash, and also for the one in engine bay please.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- as engine starts increasing boost, , the car starts to surge and go all on/off labouring. doesnt stall and doesnt make a difference whether in overdrive or normal drive (auto), apart from that the car runs sweet on cruising, but raise engine load &it starts labouring. is this possibly the fuel pump problem not being able to deliver right amount of fuel? dont believe it to be a air leak at this stage anywhere, but anythings possible, so anyone with any more ideas apart from the rewiring of the fuel pump, im more than open to advice thanks r33 gtst

my hicas light comes on after almost exactly 20mins from start up do not feel a noticeable difference either way, so was wondering if this means it is on or off? was told after purchasing (as i hadnt d4riven it for 20mins on test drive), that this light comes on after the hicas has warmed up or something and when it comes on it means the hicas has been activated?? any light shed on subject appreciated. am not having a good run with this car@all

as engine starts increasing boost, say past 4psi, the car starts to surge and go all on/off labouring. doesnt stall and doesnt make a difference whether in overdrive or normal drive (auto), apart from that the car runs sweet on cruising, but hit a slight ascent from 110km/h the boost starts to rise to compensate for engine load due to hill and it starts labouring. is this possibly the fuel pump problem not being able to deliver right amount of fuel? dont believe it to be a air leak at this stage anywhere, but anythings possible, so anyone with any more ideas apart from the rewiring of the fuel pum or a new fuel filter (which im doing this afternoon), im more than open to advice thanks

unsure if this belongs here or in a seperate thread, but possibly could be fuerl pressure problem. have the rough idle and almost stalling on deceleration at lights etc problem also. as engine starts increasing boost, say past 4psi, the car starts to surge and go all on/off labouring. doesnt stall and doesnt make a difference whether in overdrive or normal drive (auto), apart from that the car runs sweet on cruising, but hit a slight ascent from 110km/h the boost starts to rise to compensate for engine load due to hill and it starts labouring. is this possibly the fuel pump problem not being able to deliver right amount of fuel? dont believe it to be a air leak at this stage anywhere, but anythings possible, so anyone with any more ideas apart from the rewiring of the fuel pum or a new fuel filter (which im doing this afternoon), im more than open to advice thanks

i have sitting in glovebox an APEXI Air Flow Converter,, model number 9505-, looks kinda old schoolish didnt realise it upon purchase of car-95 R33 gtst, engine cooked itself as a result of previous owner being a dirty scammer and ahd sumhow blocked holes in the radiaor with a chemi weld of some sort i suppose. ran some hardcore cleaner through the system and refilled. apparently it unblocked his quick fixes and dumped all coolant through holes in radiator. due to the fact that he had taken out thermostat(unknowingly to me) the car didnt register an overheat still as it didnt get hot in the first palce and then when it overheated it didnt have anty mcoolant in it to register on temp sensor. anyway,sorry for the story. after a complete rebuild, i am curious as to what setting the afc is mmeant to be set on, i know the car number switch is correct, but unsure about the volume switch, it goes from like -6, -3, 0, 3, 6, etc. is there a generic standard sort of setting it should run, or does it depend on other factors of the car eg-exhaust, injectors, air filters? it is currently set on -3, but as i cant trust anything on this car after everything thats happend, i couldnt say if its meant to be there. thanks , any help appreciated can post pic if it helps