GabsReDeal

They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).

Swapped the injectors around and the misfire followed. I went ahead and ordered the Deatschwerks 550cc injectors and am currently waiting for them to be ship and arrive. In the meantime, I've had my Nistune soldered to the ECU. Tested it, and and tried it out with the software. Everything should be prepared for when the injectors arrive.

That is what I will be doing next

Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.

Back in January, I noticed my car felt noticeably weak. I had the injectors cleaned, which seemed to solve the problem -- until now. Recently, the car suddenly lost power again while driving. Suspecting the injectors, I brought it to the mechanic. He recommended replacing them entirely, saying the current ones were getting unreliable and fiddly to work with. I could not find a direct replacement for my current injectors. The closest match I found were 440cc injectors. This led me to look into the possibility of upgrading -- and of course, that would mean remapping the ECU. From my research I found: The OEM Part numbers are 16600-72L20 and 16600-72L21 Both the RB20DE and RB20DET use the same 270cc injectors. There are much better options out there over the old OEM injectors. Nistune could be a viable tuning option. While the RB20DE isn’t explicitly listed on their site, the ECU is essentially the same as the GTS-T version - just with a different map. The ECU code on mine is listed as supported. One concern is finding a tuner who works with Nistune. Aftermarket ECU like Haltech and Link, but this would be the most expensive choice (and possibly overkill for a mostly stock RB20DE) I admit that I am very new to the tuning scene and would appreciate any insight or recommendations regarding this. These are some SAU links where I got some of my information from for reference: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380324-rb20de-injectors/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477396-factory-270cc-injectors/

I was told that they no longer fit high flow cats over here for some weird reason. But one exhaust shop said that they may have some old stock which they could fit if I wanted. However, I have other issues to handle at the moment and this is not a priority for now.

Small Update on the Exhaust Situation A 200-cell cat was a bit too expensive for now, so I had the exhaust shop fabricate a new exhaust from the cat to the rear and an exhaust tip. I went this route to avoid cutting into the original exhaust and keep it intact. It’s essentially straight-piped, and the sound is noticeably different. The exhaust tip came with a silencer, so if it gets too loud, I can easily install it to tone things down slightly. Right now, the car bangs and pops like crazy -- which I personally love. In the future, I might add a resonator or a 200-cell cat, as niZmO_Man suggested, but for now, I’m really happy with how it turned out.

Will ask the exhaust shop about this and get a quote if possible. My current pipe is with flanges and not welded on, so I can easily switch to my old cat if I wanted. I'd do it that way too. This shouldn't be an issue as long as there are no exhaust leaks afaik. Stock one was with flanges as well.

Just a quick update: I decided to go ahead with the de-cat for now. The exhaust shop inspected the catalytic converter and said it was in good condition. I took a look myself, and it does not appear broken nor clogged. After the de-cat, the car feels more responsive and smoother. The shop also reinstalled the exhaust temperature sensor into the de-cat pipe, and now the warning light no longer comes on, even when driving hard. The only thing that’s bugging me is the tinny, “can-like” sound the exhaust makes now (similar to having a hole in the muffler). The shop suggested that I might need to replace the muffler. I'll have to think on what to do next.

Yes shipping here can be a pain, was about to purchase timing belt replacement kit, but it tends to get expensive due to shipping (and customs if importing from non-EU which the UK now falls under).

Appreciate the feedback. It is street car, but not a daily. Last week I got a quote from a good exhaust shop for a decat, one which is bolt-on, bolt-off to be easily replaceable. I got quoted for around €150. I usually do push the motor, but I wasn't in this case to make sure that no damage is done until I get the cat sorted. I think it's best to also ask the exhaust shop for the other option and see what they can do. If (big if) I were to decat though, would it be best to tune the car or would the stock ECU handle it? As far as I know, the stock ECU is not tunable and that would require additional purchases.

Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros. Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.

We import a lot of cars from Japan. I'd say that approximately 20% of our traffic is imported JDM cars (mainly consumer cars like the Mazda Demio, Toyota Yaris, Honda Fit, Suzuki Swift, etc.). We also import a lot from the UK, but this has decreased after Brexit. Apart from the consumer vehicles, two of the larger, well-known dealerships frequently import iconic '80s/'90s JDM cars. I haven't heard of anyone importing from Australia, and they are not advertised (unlike Japanese ones), despite a lot of Maltese migrating to Australia in the '50s and '60s.

Thanks for your insight, it being basically useless will impact my decision for sure. I thought it may help the engine breath better I guess. But then again, I have also been told that tuning an RB20DE is also not worth it. Exactly, we follow EU Regulations. There is a bit more leeway on older vehicles. My Porsche 924 came without a cat from factory and managed to pass, they still mentioned that I have quite high emissions on it though.

Thanks for the nice comments, I really appreciate it. Regarding mods, I am planning of keeping it mostly stock. The only possible future mods I am thinking of are new wheels, perhaps sports shocks or coilovers, and was about to do a cat delete on Monday (However, I am unsure about this and I am getting cold feet). Despite this modifications, I'd still keep all the original wheels/parts.

Here are a few pictures for those interested. These where taken shortly after some rain.

Exactly, when searching online they were a lot more common on S13s, but have seen quite a few of Skyline GTSs with them as well.

It is a two door. It is black and also still has the OEM wheels and stereo. Exact model would be KR_R32RGFEL_SS According to GTR-Registry.com is a 2 Door Coupe; RB20DE; 2WD no HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps and Fog Lights; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13-14SS) V Selection -- Which seems to be accurate description of my variant. Will try to upload a few pictures soon. The OEM wheels look like the below image. Image is taken from the goo-net-exchange website.

Hello everyone, I am from Malta and have recently bought myself a fully stock 1992 Nissan Skyline GTS. It has the RB20DE engine and thus is NA. Unfortunately, not a lot of information can be found online related to the GTS, unlike the information for GTS-T and GTR variants. Apart of the Skyline, I also got a 1984 Porsche 924 2.0l NA and a 2002 Renault Clio 1.5DCi for everyday use. Excited to be apart of the community and perhaps get better information on cars such as the GTS.