sunsetR33

Hi, just checking. Did you get this stuff made by Vspec Performance and at what price roughly? Looking into (sometime later) also getting such a intake kit, and Trust as well as HKS don't make a full set like this anymore.

Alright, fair enough. Expected as much. Possibly, yes. However the kit is apparently not including every single hose and it is out of stock too.

So bending them yourself isn't feasible?

I am a fan of braided dash lines because they are so versatile and often better than alternative solutions. I do agree though that the OEM hardlines are not bad, but the hardline to rubber connections are the first point of failure. Converting EVERYTHING to dash lines would probably be way more work than it's worth, but I think if my power steering ever leaks that will definitely go to dash lines. Or to a different power steering kit. Unfortunately the turbo oil feed already is braided lines, I think the previous owner broke the original lines when they took the turbos off.

The problem with quality is that everyone says they have it but you have to find that out yourself. Changing all hoses only for them to leak prematurely would suck.

I saw on Amayama most of the rubber hoses are actually available and mostly very inexpensive, but I don't think I can get every single one. Is it possible to make these hoses myself?

Who made the hoses you used?

Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.

I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.

I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?

I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash. It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?

Yeah I'll do what I can without taking off any major parts for now. If it becomes clear I won't get far with the engine in the car I'll have to think about the next steps. I am not too stuck on keeping everything 100% OEM, if there is better solutions, like converting most lines to braided with AN adapters, I'd rather do that than buy overpriced new "shit" parts.

Didn't necessarily look torn or whatever but it's probably rock solid by now. I found replacement hoses online, or I may as well change to AN style on both turbo and block. Unless I buy the toolset I can only do a pressure test by warming up the engine. I'll definitely take a look at all the hardlines and banjos that I can reach. That was my plan if I were to modify the sump. Buy an extension with baffling, and some fittings and let someone weld the stuff together.

I am aware of their presence, but the product page looked like that conversion will eliminate the AWD capability. Fact remains it's kind of a hassle to send my oil sump halfway around the world and buying an extra one is expensive and unnecessary. Before I go hat route I'd explore more local options. Would you recommend I just pull the engine and renew as many things as possible since I'm already having problems with some leaks? Would have to get an engine crane first though.

That specific one would be an exchange part, meaning I'd have to send mine to them. Plus it looks like a non AWD sump, which won't work for me. There is one or two shops in my country that I can ask to do a sump extension job and it'd most likely end up being cheaper than sending mine to AUS or NZ and getting one back, and quicker too.

Rear turbo is leaky, most likely at the oil drain. From what I could see with my boroscope it seemed to have seeped out at the very top of that return hose. Is it possible that the oil climbs up that hose to then leak out? Yup, coolant leak on the hot side of the engine, only noticed after seeing clear rusty residue in the block right from the turbo oil feed downwards to the pan, and red droplets hanging from the pan. No clear sign yet from where it comes, and most of the lines there are hardlines right? Last year, seeing those red drops, I thought it was power steering, will be glad if that is not leaky at least. Another leaking hose I found by chance is the lower of the two heater core hoses coming from the firewall to the back of the head. That one is not too bad to get to if I have to replace.

I think for response I'm already kind of out there no? he -5s are not the best pick for that as the Internet tells me. Maybe I should switch to -7s while I still can? Though that almost definitely warrants an engine pull along with the other issues I have.

Which I agree with. I don't want or need a high hp straight line car, I want it to be fun on the road and nothing more. Hence why I said my max power goal will be around 500 crank. The few times I drove the car last year I didn't even use high boost and it was already quick enough for me, should have been around 380-400 crank I think (2860-5s at 1-1.1bar).

I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.

I'm hoping I just don't have to do an engine rebuild NOW. Doesn't mean I won't do it at some point. I think a plus point is that the car presumably ran on or close to stock power nearly all it's life so far. Only the Owner I bought it from actually increased power with a standalone ECU and blew the OEM turbos. And after it got thee 2860s it wasn't driven an awful lot either. That is what I meant. With the twins coming on so late (4500-5000rpm) I hope the rods won't want to exit the block prematurely. And it still being a 26 means the torque curve isn't gonna hike up all that much. It didn't blow up on the dyno when they tuned it to 500ish crank. So I suppose it'll be okay for now. They did put a Tomei head gasket on first though which did not seal at all, and they redid it with a Cometic one. Which I hope won't be my water leak. Mainly anything oil. So far all it has is the N1 pump, oil restrictor and a filter relocation kit with a cooler.

From what I understand, stock internals should hold out for a while even if you run 500 at the crank, no? Especially if you don't run a modern turbo setup that reaches power and torque much earlier than the original twins. My engine isn't unopened either, it has N1 Pumps, head oil restrictor, new crank and cams, new piston rings, ARP head studs and Cometic headgasket along with 2860-5s. Considering everything is healthy this should run fine for a while I assume. Once my engine stops leaking shit everywhere, it'll be tuned to 370 crank first anyway, because I need to legalize the turbo setup. If I end up needing a new engine because my block actually has an issue, even though GTSboy was adamant that the whole porous block story is nonsense, before putting an engine in I'm probably gonna take care of the weakspots.

yeah I have brown peeking out from in between some metal sheets close to the hood hinges. Strut towers look fine, even around the edges. some images https://imgur.com/a/brGt3Tu the one that looks the worst is the panel(s) going away right near the firewall on the passenger side, from underneath. Driver side does not look that bad.

yeah I try to be positive. Time will tell what becomes of it. Realistically my only other choice than to just deal with all the issues is to walk away and just sell it agai, at a loss. I know a fair bit about these cars and knew before buying. I will try to deal with the rusty spots without tearing apart the metalwork for now. Sooner or later I probably will have to bite the bullet and do (or ge done) the arguably worst job an a 33/34 Skyline.

I'm aware that you can sink endless amounts of money into an engine. I don't want that kind of engie though. My power goal is 500, maybe 600hp at the max. I can get by with the nearly stock engine that I have now for that purpose and if it does need a rebuild at some point I would choose longer lasting components instead of the most ridiculously hp-rated ones. And do all the essentials of course.

Hey I get it. Definitely sounds exciting, but not for me, there is almost no V10 or 12 that I really like. I don't like big engines with high cylinder count. V8s would probably be where I draw the line of "which engine would you use". Specifically an LS7 is a favorite of mine, or the 5.2 Voodoo by Ford.