sunsetR33

Didn't necessarily look torn or whatever but it's probably rock solid by now. I found replacement hoses online, or I may as well change to AN style on both turbo and block. Unless I buy the toolset I can only do a pressure test by warming up the engine. I'll definitely take a look at all the hardlines and banjos that I can reach. That was my plan if I were to modify the sump. Buy an extension with baffling, and some fittings and let someone weld the stuff together.

I am aware of their presence, but the product page looked like that conversion will eliminate the AWD capability. Fact remains it's kind of a hassle to send my oil sump halfway around the world and buying an extra one is expensive and unnecessary. Before I go hat route I'd explore more local options. Would you recommend I just pull the engine and renew as many things as possible since I'm already having problems with some leaks? Would have to get an engine crane first though.

That specific one would be an exchange part, meaning I'd have to send mine to them. Plus it looks like a non AWD sump, which won't work for me. There is one or two shops in my country that I can ask to do a sump extension job and it'd most likely end up being cheaper than sending mine to AUS or NZ and getting one back, and quicker too.

Rear turbo is leaky, most likely at the oil drain. From what I could see with my boroscope it seemed to have seeped out at the very top of that return hose. Is it possible that the oil climbs up that hose to then leak out? Yup, coolant leak on the hot side of the engine, only noticed after seeing clear rusty residue in the block right from the turbo oil feed downwards to the pan, and red droplets hanging from the pan. No clear sign yet from where it comes, and most of the lines there are hardlines right? Last year, seeing those red drops, I thought it was power steering, will be glad if that is not leaky at least. Another leaking hose I found by chance is the lower of the two heater core hoses coming from the firewall to the back of the head. That one is not too bad to get to if I have to replace.

I think for response I'm already kind of out there no? he -5s are not the best pick for that as the Internet tells me. Maybe I should switch to -7s while I still can? Though that almost definitely warrants an engine pull along with the other issues I have.

Which I agree with. I don't want or need a high hp straight line car, I want it to be fun on the road and nothing more. Hence why I said my max power goal will be around 500 crank. The few times I drove the car last year I didn't even use high boost and it was already quick enough for me, should have been around 380-400 crank I think (2860-5s at 1-1.1bar).

I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.

I'm hoping I just don't have to do an engine rebuild NOW. Doesn't mean I won't do it at some point. I think a plus point is that the car presumably ran on or close to stock power nearly all it's life so far. Only the Owner I bought it from actually increased power with a standalone ECU and blew the OEM turbos. And after it got thee 2860s it wasn't driven an awful lot either. That is what I meant. With the twins coming on so late (4500-5000rpm) I hope the rods won't want to exit the block prematurely. And it still being a 26 means the torque curve isn't gonna hike up all that much. It didn't blow up on the dyno when they tuned it to 500ish crank. So I suppose it'll be okay for now. They did put a Tomei head gasket on first though which did not seal at all, and they redid it with a Cometic one. Which I hope won't be my water leak. Mainly anything oil. So far all it has is the N1 pump, oil restrictor and a filter relocation kit with a cooler.

From what I understand, stock internals should hold out for a while even if you run 500 at the crank, no? Especially if you don't run a modern turbo setup that reaches power and torque much earlier than the original twins. My engine isn't unopened either, it has N1 Pumps, head oil restrictor, new crank and cams, new piston rings, ARP head studs and Cometic headgasket along with 2860-5s. Considering everything is healthy this should run fine for a while I assume. Once my engine stops leaking shit everywhere, it'll be tuned to 370 crank first anyway, because I need to legalize the turbo setup. If I end up needing a new engine because my block actually has an issue, even though GTSboy was adamant that the whole porous block story is nonsense, before putting an engine in I'm probably gonna take care of the weakspots.

yeah I have brown peeking out from in between some metal sheets close to the hood hinges. Strut towers look fine, even around the edges. some images https://imgur.com/a/brGt3Tu the one that looks the worst is the panel(s) going away right near the firewall on the passenger side, from underneath. Driver side does not look that bad.

yeah I try to be positive. Time will tell what becomes of it. Realistically my only other choice than to just deal with all the issues is to walk away and just sell it agai, at a loss. I know a fair bit about these cars and knew before buying. I will try to deal with the rusty spots without tearing apart the metalwork for now. Sooner or later I probably will have to bite the bullet and do (or ge done) the arguably worst job an a 33/34 Skyline.

I'm aware that you can sink endless amounts of money into an engine. I don't want that kind of engie though. My power goal is 500, maybe 600hp at the max. I can get by with the nearly stock engine that I have now for that purpose and if it does need a rebuild at some point I would choose longer lasting components instead of the most ridiculously hp-rated ones. And do all the essentials of course.

Hey I get it. Definitely sounds exciting, but not for me, there is almost no V10 or 12 that I really like. I don't like big engines with high cylinder count. V8s would probably be where I draw the line of "which engine would you use". Specifically an LS7 is a favorite of mine, or the 5.2 Voodoo by Ford.

To put it in perspective; there is just one tuner shop that sells a single turbo kit for the RB26, at least publicly in their shop. Maybe one or two others can offer you a setup if you inquire, but I am not sure. That turbo kit is 16k in parts alone (high quality ones, but still). By the time it's installed, tuned and legalized expect it to cost 25k+. And then you still didn't take into account for any special wishes. I can't imagine legalizing an LS swap for example to be any cheaper. And if you want to legally raise power output by more than 40% of the highest-powered OEM variant of any specific car you'd have to do stress testing on a race track for 2000km. Wildly out of perspective cost and effort wise, especially for just one vehicle. But if you got too much money, I guess you could do it.

I rather like the RBs despite their quirks and issues and also putting a random engine in will not work because you will never legally be able to drive it. Realistically if you wanted to swap an LS in, or a V12 or whichever engine, to make it legal it'd just cost more than a new RB.

There is some shops in Germany that have quite a bit of experience with JDM performance 4-wheelers. I think if it actually comes down to it I'd let one of them do the head gasket. Killing an RB26 is too expensive a risk just to save some money by doing it yourself.

Well if I end up having to do the head gasket I will certainly find the necessary tools and instructions before beginning... Let's hope it won't come around. Definitely. Depends on the job but I think "if you want it done right, do it yourself" applies almost every time

Well I don't know if it was a professional or not. I did a head gasket before so doing it on the RB wouldn't be too much of a challenge. Already have a slight drip on the bottom radiator (almost new -_-) hose and the lower of the two heater connector hoses behind the head. Will have to fix those too.

God no. I would have never bought that car if it was going to be my only one and daily driver. I don't intend to go bankrupt but I don't really want to give up on it even if it ends up eating more money than expected.

Yeah rust is sadly also a bit of an issue on my car. Doubt there is many cars out there that actually have no rust in those aeas. The strut towers look fine but some of the surounding metal sheets show a bit of brown cancer peeking out from in between. I hope I can make do with external remedies and won't have to rip open the whole front end anytime soon. It looks somewhat minor compared to some shit I have seen online. I have worked on a few cars but I expect the RB26 to be my first 'engine out' job at some point.

Hi all. First off, thanks for reading my post. So end of last season I put the car away knowing I was leaking at least two fluids. One of them being rear turbo's oil. I went to my car recently that is waiting in a garage to take a peek with my boroscope to try and see if I can narrow down the souce of oil before taking it out of storage. What I found is not so great I think. The rear turbo is (probably) leaking from the oil drain. The hose and it's clamps are probably the original ones, so most likely just worn out or loose. However I spotted a line of rust going straight down from the turbo oil feed, as if water leaked out of there at some point. Also explains the red liquid that was dripping from my front subframe, which I initially thought was power steering. I can even see coolant drops hanging off the side of the oil pan as well. After a quick hit on the web I found a select few discussions about porous engine blocks. My question is if the pics of the turbo oil feed and the left hand side of the block (imgur link below) looks like it could be exactly that to you. Maybe someone in the community has seen it before and knows what it looks like. If it actually is a porously leaking block, has anyone attempted at fixing it with simple methods like putting a sealer in the cooling system and using something like jb weld on the block surface, or will it just leak in 2 weeks again? I could not find any detailed info or pictures on this topic. If I need a new engine, tell me softly. https://imgur.com/a/knVvmZ8

Hey all. I'm 23 and from Germany, September last year I bought a mildly modded 1995 GTR Vspec. Looks great and was fun so far, but I already have a list of issues of various severity that I need to take care of, potentially growing longer the closer I look. I just hope I'm not in over my head, I really want to keep the car and work towards it becoming great. I hope y'all will help me out in getting there, I am positive I will need help sooner rather than later to figure out how to proceed. greetings, some pics of the car I posted to imgur. https://imgur.com/a/StKkabz