zinkrb250
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Posts posted by zinkrb250
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anyone?? I'd be glad to answer questions to help diagnose this problem
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SII rb25det
-using power FC-
Can't figure out why my nismo 555cc injectors are hitting 100% duty cycle when i'm only making 371horsepower... any ideas???
-Duty cycle is set at 66.5% at .14m/s lag
-Fuel pressure is set at 43psi w/o vacuum
-Brand new fuel filter
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Yesterday I hardwired the fuel pump to the battery... It's now recieving 13. + volts and I'm still getting high knock levels in the high rpms..
I'm using a PFC and my car was tuned at a certified excel tuner facility..
So are we saying that I could be getting high knock levels because my afm is being over flowed? The reading on my pfc is saying my afm is seeing 5115mv or something along those lines...
So it looks like i'm getting a new fuel pump... prolly not the nismo because it's twice as much as a bosch pump... what do you guys recommend? I see a lot of people on here using 040 and the 044...
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Here is a graph from my last dyno tune...
My A/F ratio is a little high and i'm getting high knock levels at high rpm...
On a post earlier someone suggested that it was my walbro 255lph fuel pump that was giving out and not flowing enough fuel...
However, I'm still using a sII rb25det afm and making 371hp...
Would this be a problem causing my high knock levels or the fuel pump?
I turned up the fuel pressure to 50psi and my injector duty cycle is set at 87.0% on 550cc injectors.
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Looking for a low mileage GTR fuel pump...
Would require shipping to USA
Thanks
Andrew
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Ahh I didn't see the mods cos they were in the sig. Yeah that walbro is running lean up top like they all do. Ditch it and get something better. A GTR pump should do the job.
I think the injectors should be up to the task too. Check the pump.
Unfortunately GTR pumps are a little hard to source here in the states... What do you think about a Supra TT pump instead?
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I had the PowerFC boost controller on there but the tuner could never get it to work properly...
The shop where this was tuned is an Apexi excel dealer and certified tuner... he was on the phone with Apexi telling them what was up and they couldn't even figure out why it wasn't working... he said maybe the solenoid was messed up...
So right now it's just got a bleed valve on there... Which i'm not exactly thrilled about... but it gets the job done
The injector duty cycle on the settings in the PFC are at 86.5%
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Thanks mates! I'm extremely pleased with my results...
This matches my goals perfectly... I wanted something streetable that i could enjoy at track events occasionally...
As for the torque spike... i'm not sure... might have something to do with my tomei poncams?
This setup I'm running is in my 95 s14... i love it! Handles beautiful on the road... the GTRS spools rather quickly for the amount of power it can push... I was wanting something to enjoy on the streets and this turbo performs just as i had imagined it...
In stock form... boost would build and set you back... but then as you climbed higher into the 5-6000 rpms it seemed like it would start to drop off...
Now, it just wants to go... it feels like it would just keep pulling ... i bumped up my rev limit (using my pfc) from 6900 to 7000....
But in any case i'm more than pleased with the results... My tuner informed me if i wanted to go any further with power i'd need to upgrade injectors... he said they're getting border line to the limit (i'm using nismo 550cc)
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Just Got my ride tuned... here's some graphs..
Final Rear Hub Powa: 371.3 RWHB @ 13.7 PSI
Final Torque: 297.8
1st Graph: Torque Curve on the Left.... Horsepower on the Right
2nd Graph: Torque Curve on the Left... A/R ratio on the Right
3rd Graph: Boost Press.
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Yes thats right there are four boost setting each with a boost pressure set level and a starting duty cycle. The way it works is you take a stab at the base duty cycle from here the PFC works out wether or not it is above or below the boost set point and decides if it needs to increase or decrease the duty cycle to achieve the desired boost level, it does this throughout the entire rev range at a frequency of about 40Hz from memory. That means it can calculate a duty cycle 40 times per second.
Now what happens if you set a high base duty cycle and a low boost setting is it spikes up using the base duty cycle guess and then it sees that its current boost point is too high for the desired boost level and it pulls the boost out by reducing the duty cycle. Remeber it can only go as low as the base wastegate spring pressure if it is less than this at any point the you have a mechanical problem. A good test would be to take the boost solenoid out of the equation and see if it holds wastegate pressure.
The setting you have in there of 0.5kg/cm2 = about 7psi which is probably pretty close to wastegate spring pressure. So if your duty cycle of 48 is spiking to say 15 psi and you are trying to run 15 pound then you need to put in a boost setting of 1.05kg/cm2 = 15psi.
Well i took the solenoid out of the equation and it held a steady 10-11psi ....
So does this mean (on the pfc h/c) that on boost setting #1 at .5kg/cm2 i should lower duty cycle from (factory) 48 to....?????? what? I have no idea how this thing works
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it's definately after the butterfly
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Yes.. On the H/C under settings - boost - you have about 5 different boost settings to choose from.... next to each boost setting you've got the duty cycle setting and then next to each duty cycle setting is the number 255...
right now i've just got it on the lowest setting of .5 mmhg? and then 48 duty cycle....
These were the original numbers already in the pfc from apexi
Wouldn't i have to be driving the car to use the multimeter to see when or if the solenoid was opening?
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So its setup like in the diagram.
Correct... The wastegate vacuum is running to the "COM" port (short length of hose as recommended in the instructions)
but i don't have a nipple on my intercooler piping (it's the FMIC Hybrid kit)... so instead of having the "NO" port vacuum line running before the throttle body, it's attatched to the throttle body plate that attatches to the intake plenum...
here's a picture of what i'm talking about.... This is and old one before i installed the apexi solenoid but it'll still give you the right impression....
The vacuum circled in the picture is where i've got the "NO" vacuum line plumbed....
according to the apexi instructions it should be before your throttle body on the cold side of the intercooler piping
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the map sensor is T'd off of the vacuum line going to my Fuel press. reg.... it reads boost fine on my hand controller...
I was missing the factory boost solenoid and harness when i installed the rb25 into my s14 so i had to hardwire a 12v. source to the AFM 12v source... then i ran the earth wire from the apexi solenoid to pin 25 on the efi harness.... according the the rb25 wire schematics, pin 25 is the boost solenoid control...
I can hear the apexi solenoid click whenever i turn the ignition to "on"...
I get a 12v reading whenever i check for power on the apexi solenoid
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tested the wastegate... works fine...
Now when the car hits approximately 10psi it cuts off (boost press. drops/engine shuts off) only for a second... then it kicks back on as soon as it drops below 10psi... and it will keep doing this as long as my foot is on the pedal and we're at 10psi of boost...
The car literally feels like it's shutting off - then on - then off - then on...
I've got it checked on the PowerFC option "yes" that i've got the boost controller kit....
I tried turning that off and i boosted up to 15psi before i let off the gas... it didn't do any of the on/off/on/off stuff...
So what does this tell me?
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what bov are you using?
still using the OEM BOV... wondering if i need to adjust the duty cycle on the PFC boost functions?
using OEM vacuum hose... this stuff wouldn't collapse just yet... i really do think it has something to do w/ how i've got the intake charge pipe vacuum line hooked up
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motor: rb25det
upgrades: hks gtrs turbo, power fc, 3" turbo back, power FC boost controller, 555cc injectors, tomei poncams, Pod filter
Problem: Whenever i take the car for a cruise... I stomp on it... boost climbs to approximately 10psi and as soon as it reaches 10psi, the boost starts to fade back down to 0 psi.... almost like the wastegate is stuck open.... it will remain at 0 psi until i let off the throttle and/or push in the clutch... then the pressure will rise back to 10psi and leak back to 0
Idea: I've got the correct vacuum line going from the boost solenoid to the waste gate... but the other line on the boost solenoid which is supposed to go to the cold pipe, is hooked up to the metal tubing that runs underneath the charge pipe and leads to the throttle body plate... can't remember if it's the "com" port or the "no" port on the actuator... but i have read that it is supposed to connect to the cold pipe before the throttle body, via a nipple welded onto the cold pipe
Lets hear the ideas/suggestions
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Thanks paul... the motor is a Series II so i guess it used to be pink... maybe it faded in the junk yard where the engine sat for so long?
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I was examining the AFM on my rb25det and noticed instead of the Green Label it has a White label... and it's not a 5 pin plug either... it's 3 pin... does anyone know what kind of AFM this is?
Only reason i noticed is because i was researching upgrading to a Z32 Afm and noticed all the rb25 afms were green labeled and had 5 pin plugs
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can i get a price check on a Kakimoto Hyper 2000 FullMega N1+ Single for an r32 GTR shipped to the USA
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Here's her ass
this is her with my old car rb25 powered 240
Frontal nudity
frontal nudity 2... with a little ass action of my new girl in the back
In all her glory
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just wondering zinkrb250 do many people in the states knw wat ur godzilla is? hope the cops dont.
think bout punching ur cat out.. im going to.
wher did ur bonnet grill go? and u get a Vspec..? (vspec frnt bar)
Nahh not a lot of people know what it is... the tuner people know... but not the ordinary joes ... all they see is me on the wrong side of the car and have to look twice to make sure that's what they saw.. I've passed plenty of cops so far and no problems with them yet...
Right now i'm looking into getting a 3.5 or 4" catback and hopefully find a test pipe that is bigger than 3"
I've got the bonnet grill... it just wasn't in place when the pictures were taken...
And about the vspec i'm pretty sure it is not a vspec....reason being is because it doesn't have the brembo brakes
So far i've found the car has a little lip on the hood (just above the bonnet grill)... a boot lip on the trunk... no emblems except for GTR on the back and the GT on the fenders... it's got an oil cooler (which i don't think came factory)... earl's stainless steel brake lines, some unknown brand of stainless steel front pipes, an unknown 5zigen catback, an unknown aftermarket steering wheel, hasemi bucket seat, it had hasemi wheels until i swapped those for my 17x9 5zigen fno1rc (bronze), it's got an HKS panel filter, a blitz boost gauge, hks turbo timer, hks boost controller, apexi n1 coilovers, nismo A arms i think... i don't know i was under it and found a bracket that said nismo located on both of the front wheel wells, it had nismo spark plugs until i changed them out cause it was stuttering at higher boost levels... so far that's all i can think of off of the top of my head
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come on i know someone can share their experience or opions on any of these systems.... lets hear it guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I'm in the market to get a new exhaust for my r32 GTR...
Right now it's got a 5zigen catback with the factory cat and some unknown stainless steel down pipes
First of all... I am looking for an exhaust either fully stainless steel or titanium... Mild steel is good but they salt the roads where i live and i need something that is going to last...
Second... I want something that looks badass.. I want a single (barrel/cannon) muffler that comes out at an angel
Next... I'm looking for an exhaust that will support up to 500++HP and breath very easily....
So... with that in mind... i'm looking for something with VERY little restriction (i.e. bends, resonators, etc)
I'm not exactly sure about size... I understand 3" will do the job... but I'd like to get something around the 3.5" mark... for future modifications
I've looked into several brands and they all have their pro's and con's.....
Blitz Nur Spec R: I own one on my rb25 powered s14.... beautiful exhaust.. quality is amazing...
I'd like to try something a little different this time...
HKS Silent Hi-Power: full stainless and piping sizes up to 95mm... but i have no experience with this catback... I'm sure it's awesome... it's HKS
(This is one of my initial choices)
HKS Racing Muffler: Stainless 102mm piping... titainium muffler... .for extreme high horsepower applications... looks like an incredible exhaust system... if you know anything about it share the wealth
Apexi GT Spec: 3.75" piping... full stainless... one solid piece of piping... not made into sections so it lowers exhaust turbulance by not having flanges... any info you could provide would be helpful
Kakimoto Hyper 2000 FullMega N1+Single: I believe it's available in 90mm piping... and it's kakimoto... which i've read and is supposively the best of the best
Trust Power Extreme Ti-R: titainium... n1 style... and available in 90mm... i can't read japanese and none of the language filters (bablefish) will help... if you know anything about these please tell
Trust Power Extreme Ti: stainless i think... 80mm ... i don't know anything more.. if you do please let me know
That's about it as far as my list goes so far... or atleast these were all of the exhausts i was interested in... yes i know i could save a lot of money by making a custom job but then where is the fun in blowing all your money on a high priced japanese exhaust???
Any other comments or advice you could offer let me know...
Thanks... happy driving
cheers
-Andrew
Why Are My Injectors Hitting 100% Duty Cycle?
in Engines & Forced Induction
Posted
So you were using a walbro fuel pump and reading 100% duty cycle?... I don't understand how a failing fuel pump would make the powerfc read 100% duty cycle... could you please explain?