zinkrb250

I've searched and read several suggestions on how to fix a high idle problem... check for any vacuum leaks (cracked hoses, etc...), adjust TPS, adjust AAC, so on so on... I've gone over several vacuum lines so far and haven't found any problem (as of now)... my boost gauge reads just a little below -.5 bar at idle... so i'm not exactly sure it's a vacuum leak. i've checked the throttle cable and it looks like the throttle bodies are still closed at idle... there's enough slack in the line. The idle is very steady and sits right around 1600rpm... when i turn my A/C on the idle lowers a few hundred RPM.... Any ideas please help Cheers -Andrew

Here are some more pictures... not exactly professional but they do the job

Hello fellow rb enthusiasts, I just purchased my very first skyline... a 1994 r32 GTR... She's currently sporting Hasemi Wheels (no idea what version), Hasemi bucket seat, HKS turbo timer, HKS boost controller, 5zigen catback, S.S. downpipe, earl's s.s. braided brake lines, unknown aftermarket steering wheel... maybe a few other goodies that I haven't discovered yet... Oh yeah by the way... I live in the US.... I'm looking for a new catback... must be fully stainless steel or titanium.... I was wondering what you guys recommended as far as quality goes... I've been looking at Apexi GT spec (the huge catback)..... I was also curious where i could find some Vspec brembo brakes for the front and back... Also looking into replacing the catalytic converter with a 3" test pipe... curious to know if the factory O2 sensor would be affected if it was fitted into a test pipe Basically any other words of wisdom you can offer and where to begin upgrading the car.... this is going to be a Street car with occasional track usage... I've searched and I'm still searching as we speak... I'd just like to introduce myself and my car and say it's a pleasure to join you guys and I'll be driving a skyline for the rest of my life! CHeers Andrew

I've been having problems with my PFC BCK as well.. I'm not sure if I installed it correctly... Here's the skinny... r33 SII rb25det in a 95 S14... There was NO factory boost solenoid on the motor when i recieved it... so i have no female plug for the solenoid to plug into.... The Maps sensor (red,green,black wires) plugged conveniently into the side of my PFC... I've got the vacuum lines hooked up to the solenoid and plugged the pink/black harness from the solenoid into the brown/red harness that came with the kit Now here is where it gets messy.... since i had no factory solenoid.... i have no female plug for the red/brown harness (solenoid)..... So from gathering little bits of information the best solution i could come up with was hardwiring the red wire to pin 25 and the brown wire to pin 50 on the efi harness.... (pin 50 ground/pin 25 boost control) My hand commander reads boost accurately.... since the map sensor is plugged into the side of the PFC.... but I'm not sure if the boost solenoid is even functioning properly... Any ideas on where to start?????????? -Andrew

Hey fellas... I have been toying with the idea of starting another project... I've currently got an rb25det installed in my s14 with a few goodies... but I'm wanting something as sort of a side project (i'm about as far as i want to go with the rb25) ... I'm interested in the 3.0 the rb30 has to offer... Ideally ... this block will sit in my garage on an engine stand and be tore down... bored, honed, new pistons, rods, crank balanced, new oilpump, new water pump... you get the idea... After i was finished with the block i would like to slap an rb26 head on top for various reasons (solid lifters/intake mani, etc...) My only problem is.... I live in the states.... can't exactly find a VLcommadore anywhere around here.... I'm interested in locating a rb30eT (i'd like it to already have the oil feed/return and water feed/return lines tapped.... Who can i contact in order to have an rb30 shortblock shipped to the states? thanks -andrew

I took my tranny off yesterday and got the clutch off today.... I was told by my tuner that my clutch felt as if "it is binding up or the throwout bearing isn't working properly" If anyone sees anything out of the ordinary please let me know... Flywheel Inside of bellhousing Side shot of the throwout bearing Front of throwout bearing throwout bearing mounted on spline Pressure plate This is how the clutch looked when I removed it Clutch without pressure plate Clutch from the outside Is this normal to have wear around the ring of the outside? I inspected the bellhousing for any signs of wear and didn't see anything... the paint on the clutch is scratched off but the metal hasn't really been gouged. If anyone sees anything out of the ordinary (how it's mounted, throwout bearing, etc) please let me know.... I'd hate to have to order a new clutch but if that's what it takes then so be it. Cheers -Andrew

interesting read.... I wonder if i pull the fuse for my alarm if that will help anything?.... I haven't used the alarm since i bought the car and that was 2 years ago

bought the PFC from nengun.com... i believe it's a brand new unit.... I haven't been able to hold a change on this unit since i recieved it. My tuner wasn't using datalogit or excel software so there's no way we could have put a password on it.... nengun.com told me I'll have to send the unit back on my own expense... they'll have it tested at apexi... and if it is in fact a "damaged" unit... then they will replace it... if it's not damaged then I'll be charged for the testing done by apexi

When I would made a change...then go to settings and back to the new change.... the new change would still be there....But if i made the change and turn the car off... then the new change would revert back to the apexi basemaps.... I was informed by rx7.com that even if you disconnect the battery and leave for several months... the PFC will still have your tuned maps because the information is saved as "volitale data".... so that rules out the theory of a constant power source

I took my car 7.5 hours away to get it tuned only to find out my PFC is not working right. My tuner would enter changes and the PFC will not hold any changes. Once the changes have been made... and the car is shut off... then turned back on... the changes that were made by me or the tuner would be erased and reverted back to the original settings on the PFC.... i.e. injectors 100% duty (original) 67% duty (tuned) turn car off turn car back on 100% duty (back to original I started to think that the PFC isn't getting a constant power source when the car is turned off... but i was just informed that the PFC won't even work if there's no constant wired to it.... which leads me to believe this is a faulty unit. I ordered this unit from nengun.com and have contacted them requesting the trade me units with a fully functional PFC and pay for overnight shipping... Any ideas? cheers -andrew

Thanks for your help so far SK.... downloaded this wiring diagram of the rb25 (r33) the red line traces from the boost solenoid to pin 25 on the efi harness. (light green wire) I had a look at my harness and not to my surprise... that very wire was clipped.... So now that i know what needs to be done i have a few questions.... The Apexi solenoid has 2 wires... red and black... which would you think to be the ground and which would you think to be positive? Next, would you suggested any power source in particular that is switched with the ignition? Maybe my flex-a-lite fans which are wired to turn on whenever i turn my key to the "on" position.

I just talked to Apexi-usa and a tuner shop here in the states... apexi told me that white plug was supposed to connect to (not sure on this) either the factory boost box.... or the plug that goes to the factory boost box which is all routed through the EFI harness back to the ecu... The tuner shop told me... wiring this to a power source and a ground, although would give it power, wouldn't not work because the ecu (powerFC) needs to adjust the voltage under boost (something along those lines).... so i'm going to have to splice the two wires from the apexi solenoid into the EFI harness.... I'm waiting to call my tuner back later today... he's supposed to be looking over the wiring schematics and walking me through which pin to splice into..... Any of this sound all right??????

Probably... but there's just one problem... I never had a factory boost solenoid... I have no clue where the plug for the factory solenoid is either (not sure if it's even on my harness anymore.... i had mckinney motorsports splice my s14 and rb25 harness together) Does anyone see if there would be problem if i were to splice these wires into a power source and a ground?

This is a diagram of how to hook up the AVCR... but the solenoid and the pressure sensor are relatively the same as the boost controller for the PFC....... the AVCR comes w/ a harness that hooks up the the pressure sensor and the solenoid, runs through the firewall and splits to the AVCR and then to the ECU.... at the ECU you have to splice in power, rpm, blah blah blah.... so i'm starting to think that since I can't find a place for that plug.... I'll have to splice it into a power source and ground.... any thoughts?????

RB25DET PowerFC Ver 5.10 FC Commander3 Ver 5.01 Serial #: PFCECR33010-1212 Does the apexi boost solenoid require power to function? If so... then this must be the plug that supplies power.... and if in fact this is the plug that supplies power... where would it get it's power source from? Maybe I'll have to splice these wires from the solenoid into a power source?

That was my initial thought too... but upon further inspection of the PowerFC... there's only outlets for the engine harness, the hand controller, and the sensor that T's into the FPR vacuum line.

What's up fellas, I'm in the midst of installing the PowerFC boost controller and I'm having trouble. Pictured below is the Apexi boost solenoid... the plug I'm holding is the problem... I don't know where it goes!! The black and pink wire plug from the solenoid connects to the red and brown plug... I'm holding the other end of the red and brown extension... I JUST NEED TO KNOW WHERE THE HELL IT PLUGS TO?????

Hell yes... this is good stuff to know thanks for the valuable info! A wideband is the very next thing on my "to buy" list.... any suggestions on where i can get one fairly cheap/reliable?

does ANYONE know the lag time i need to set on the PFC with nismo550 injectors????? also correct me if i'm wrong.... in order to figure out duty you take the original injector size/new injector size=duty? for example: 370/550=.667=67% duty? thanks guys -Andrew

I just installed one of these last night.... the kit comes with EVERYTHING you need.

I'm trying to contact tuners around my aread (6 hours away)... I'm just waiting to hear back from them

forgive my noobishness... but could you explain how i can change the latency of the new injectors? What would you suggest I do about the knock? Before this install the highest i've ever seen it go was 70... it usually doesn't hit above 20. Any other insight you could share is worth its weight in gold. thanks -andrew

started at approximately 4pm (sat afternoon)... finished approximately 7am (sun morning)... me, sparksta (brandon), and another friend of mine worked on the car all night. We installed the following: -nismo 555 injectors -HKS gt-rs turbo kit -unplugged and reset the PowerFC (still have yet to install the PowerFC boostCntrlR After finishing the install we started the car up... let it run for about 15 minutes... then decided to take a drive... turbo would spool to about 5psi then begin to stutter/power loss/no response took the car back to the house... checked vacuum lines, re-adjusted fuel pressure (43psi-w/o vacuum)... disconnected battery, drained power (pumped the brakes a few times)... reconnected battery and let the car run for another 15 minutes. Round 2: drove the car up the street a block.... everything good... then POP... loose intercooler coupler popped off.... took the car back to the house... tightened the coupler back down and double checked the others. Round 3: drove the car up the block... everything is running smooth... hit boost at 12psi... came to a stop... checked the FC and knock reached 165!!!!! Drove the car back home off boost and parked it... The car hasn't been tuned in any shape or form yet. I'm not sure if i need to set the PowerFC to let it know the injectors are bigger or what.... Just thought I'd let you guys know how the progress was going... I've got plenty of pix and i'll post them as soon as I get them uploaded. Any thoughts/criticism/compliments are as always welcome. -Andrew

I'm currently debating between an HKS GT-RS turbine kit for my rb25det from nengun.com... kit comes with everything to be a complete bolt on affair.... ... or, t3/t4 (don't know what a/r, etc)... if i did the t3/t4 route... what would i need to replace my current turbo with the new one? i.e. oil lines, water lines, gaskets, fittings, elbows, etc.... Im just trying to decide whether or not i should spend 2000 on an HKS GT-RS or half that on a t3/t4 I need to know every piece neccessary to replace the rb turbo with a t3/t4 before i can make my decision

bump... would it be wise to get a new metal head gasket and some arp head studs as well?