BADHAB|T

You can thank me for my post in that thread with a fmic!

cowie165 : no problems! mook1 : the blue wire puts out 12v and its not strictly used as a remote for an amp. You have a factoy booster that needs 12v. The black/red wire is the one that powers the booster Hope that helps

You need to connect the black/red wire to the blue wire on your stereo. There is nothing wrong with the stereo or the factory aerial.....

A normal band expander adjusts the stepping of a Japanese stereo There is one availble to adjust US stepping, but like I said, they dont come cheap!

Mine often gets called 'The Whale' or 'Moby' after Moby Di(k by my mates. My car is a white R33 which explains 'Moby'

Also, the muffler is a very intimidating sight, big enough to store a baby, or small cat.

HKS Super Dragger! I have a 3.5" cat back, 5" tip. Very sedade noise at the lower revs, but it has balls. At high revs..... well words dont describe it!

I had to tell a customer the bad news today. they just bought a sony from the states, they opted for a new stereo.

If its a USA stereo, you probably wont be ale to get any of your local stations. Alpines can change between local and USA stepping. I believe a band expander is available to change it to local stepping but they cost about $250. Have a look on the sticker on the top of the stereo, it will tell you its frequency range. 78.9 - 107.9. (not sure how accurate those numbers are, but they aint far off) If the numbers look like that, you need a new stereo, or a dang expensive expander. 78.0 - 108.0, should look something like that

Blue, on 99% of aftermaket head units.....

I hope you mean me haha Seriously, no problem at all eh! Thats what these forums are for! Did you consider taking out the rear window?

That wire (usually light green) needs to be earthed. Definately not connected to ACC.

pffft, get a honda! :jk: Beautiful car man! *mutter* you bastard hehe

What the fu(k, no you dont. I think if people on here that dont do it for a living, or havent done it before should be careful what they say! jesse_r : Go to your local audio shop, they will be able to supply 6x9 spacers for about $35 for singles, $50 for doubles, carpeted. You may need singles or doubles, depends on the speaker. Maybe have the factory speakers out before you go so they can suss out the best spacer To take the speakers out, remove the horizontal part of the back seat by pulling up very hard. Now remove the verticle part, two 10mm (or 12mm, I forget) bolts either side. Now push it straight up, there are upward facing hooks holding it on. Now the tray can be removed, its just clipped down. Remove the factory speaker grilles (screwed onto the tray) Remove the factory speakers and put it all back together. Now, screw the speaker onto the spacer (outside the car) Put the spacer and speaker into the hole, line it up so it looks straight Go in the boot, pulling down on the magnet, or get a mate in the car to push down on the speaker, screw into the spacer from underneath. 2 or 3 screws is fine. Extend the factory wiring making sure to get the phasing correct. Remove the rear screen? pffft.

You dont need to run new wires to bypass it. The other two will be hicas and the rear wiper motor? Maybe, its been a while since I worked on a 32

Okay then, why is the sky blue? Now lets see how many people actually know that! No one said these questions had to be car related, except maybe the forum rules!

Who knows? I know! The accessory wire will be hooked upto the illumination circuit. So, when you turn your lights on, your stero gets power. Fairly common mistake

Take the head unit out, plug it into the back of the factory item, plug onto the end of the aerial lead, one wire connects to Accessory. 10-15 min job!

Do you mean our head unit is missing the Blue wire? If yes, hook the aerial wire upto the red wire (ACC). Or if you cant find the wire to make the aerial to go up and down, you will have 3 power wires and 8 speaker wires (no earth on Nissans), the single remaining wire is the one you need! Hope that helps! And hope it makes sense, typing and logical thought just isnt the same after a few beers

I had mine supplied and fitted for $120

I too have a 3.5" HKS super drager. I ditched the cat (legal in nz) and put a 3" front pipe on (no one had 3.5" piping) The changes were subtle but noticable. Quicker pickup, seemed to pick its arse up and move from the word 'go' quicker A bit more top end pull I dont think I got any more boost. Plus the exhaust note wasnt as muffled. No where near as raspy as a 32t with an exhaut though

#2 phillips + subby phillips Socket set or ring spanners (to get the factory spacer out +rear seat) Speaker terminals (you can cut these off the length of wire you get when you buy new speakers) Facory teminals will not match. Something to join the new short length of wire (with terminals) onto factory wiring. (solder, crimps). Get the phasing right!

I work in car audio but I have about the most basic install ever! Head Deck - Sony Xplod CDX-4800X (bought it years ago when I thought Sony was the best) Front - Infinity Kappa Components Rear - Infinity Kappa 6" 2 way To do - Get a top spec Pioneer head unit Get an amp or two, poss Infinity or Alpine to run a sub and components Get a sub, unsure on size but will proably go for Infinity Kappa or Kappa Perfect Boring eh. I am usually cruising with mates so would rarely crank it, so its not a huge priority.

Hey ladies and germs All of you seem to be asking in seperate forums questions about specific cars to do an install on. Well, I thought I'd take a minute or 4 to mention the basics when doing your own install. Of course every car is different, but alot of their parts come off in a very similar fashion. Lets start with the wiring - 99.9% of the time, the top of the plug is positive in respect to speakers. The top can be defined as the side of the plug that has the tab on it that needs to be pushed down to release it. Factory Nissans have two plugs for their stereos. They changed the shape of their plugs around 1995 from plugs with yellow trim to black trim. The smaller plug always has the wiring for the rear speakers. The larger plug has the front speakers and 3 powers and antenna wires. Telling you what colours Nissan have is useless, they changed alot. Find the three powers first. Using a test light or multi meter prod around with the key out. The only wire with 12v is your permanent power (Batt). Now turn the key to ACC and find the wire with 12v. This is Accessory (ACC). Turn your lights on, find the wire with 12v. This is Illumination (ILL). You will now have 4 or 5 wires remaining on the large plug. Four of these are speaker wires. To find what speaker is what, get an AA battery, solder/tape whatever a wire to both terminals of the battery. Now you can poke those wires into the stereo plug. A speaker will make a noise when you send 1.5 volts though it. Now with those 4 wires sorted, you may have one remaining depending on your car. If you have a manual aerial, dont expect to see a spare wire as this is for the electric aerial. This gets connected to the blue or blue/white of your new stereo loom. Even if you dont have an aerial that goes up and down, you will still need to connect this wire (common mistake with DIY R32 installs). Your aerial will be in the back or side window and needs 12v to make it work. For the smaller plug, use the battery again to find the speakers. There may be a 5th wire on the smaller plug, insulate it and ignore it. Nissans DO NOT have an earth in their loom so ground the stereo by connecting the black wire to the chassis (stereo brackets, back of the stereo) ALot of cheaper stereos do not have Illumination in ther loom, so insulate the wire if it is not required. Otherwise it can short and blow a fuse. Just in case someone out there doesnt already know this I will type it out. These colours are pretty much generic for an aftermarket stereo but DO NOT match colours with the car wiring Yellow - Battery Red - Accessory Orange - Illumination White - Front Left + White/Black - Front Left - Grey - Front Right + Grey/Black - Front Right - Green - Rear Left + Green/Black - Rear Left - Purple - Rear Right + Purple/Black - Rear Right - Blue - System Remote (Electric Aerial and/or Amp Remote) Black - Earth It IS important you get the phasing correct when wiring speakers. (ie: Positive to positive, negative to negative) If it is incorrect, it will cancell out any bass. Now, getting to the factory head deck - Most Nissans pull apart in a similar way. Nine times out of ten, the shifter surround comes off first. Its usually on clips so just pull it up. This allows access to the stereo facia. It usually has screws right at the bottom (around the ash tray / cig lighter area) and screws near the top (around the heater controlls area). There can be hidden screws (behind an ashtray etc) but usually once the visable ones are out, the stereo facia pulls off (held on fairly tight with clips still). Undo all plugs and get the facia out of the immidiate work space so it doesnt get scratched. The factory head deck location will be either a single DIN (stereo sized) or double DIN. If it is a double DIN hole (R32, R33, Primera etc), what size stereo came out? Double or single DIN? If it was a double DIN, you will need to purchase a Nissan pocket to fill the hole. If you removed a single DIN factory stereo, you should already have a pocket there. Anyway.... ALL Nissan factory stereos are mounted on brackets. There are 4 screws holding the brackets in. Once the brackets are out (with the stereo mounted to it) remove the stereo. Your new one will line up with the factory holes perfectly. No need to redrill holes or anything. YOU DO NOT USE THE TRIM THAT COMES WITH THE NEW STEREO. That is there for stereos that are cage mounted. Cage - http://www.newministuff.co.uk/16_cage_in.jpg You do not require the cage aswell. Different cars get the stereo mounted differently. This is just a guide as not ALL Nissans are like this but it is fairly generic. For example, the stereo facia on a Stagea is attatched to the stereo brackets so you remove the whole lot in one go. Use a paint scraper or similar to wedge tight panels off as a screw driver can damage plastic and vinyl. Alot of Nissans require an aerial adaptor as as covered alot already, they have a double pin aerial as opposed to a normal single pin. The adaptor is usually worth about $15. Its not as common for later models to need one of these. If you are not running any rear (or front) speakers it is very important to insulate the spare speaker wires (on the new stereo loom) as these will kill your stereo if they touch earth with the stereo on. I think thats about all the tips and tricks I can think of right about now for a generic Nissan install, I may add to it later on but I hope this gets Stuck up the top for all to see! I can easily go into more detail about specific cars but I have to leave bits out as its a generic guide. If you have any specific questions regarding your car (doesnt have to be Nissan), feel free to PM me and Ill try help out Nissans and Toyotas are really very easy when installing a new stereo, no cutting, re-drilling etc needed. Hope that helps Gareth

Ahh sweet dude, I mistook what you said, thought you meant 'ports' Well, I dont have too much experience with a Bazooka styled tube, but I see no reason why pvc pipe wont work, just make sure whatever you use is solid so there is no flex! I agree, bass tubes are easier to move around and can give awesome bass if made correctly! Hope that helps a bit more