BADHAB|T

Look at the spec sheet you got with your sub! It will tell you the correct volume you need for a sealed and ported box, it will also tell you the diameter, length and number of ports requried. Adhere to these specs strictly as if you dont, the sub will sound very bad

No problem at all! Name a car and I should be able to give lots of info about it, audio wise

Ok, maybe I'll have a go at a more acuurate guide. There is no difference between the S1 and S2 as far as audio goes. I have a S2 and have worked on both (I install audio for a living) There are two parts to the rear seat - the bit your arse sits on and the bit your back rests against. The bit your arse sits on comes out first. There are two bolts (10 or 12mm, I cant remember) located behind where your calf muscle would be if you were sitting in the seat. One either side of the seat. Once they are out, there are two clips holding it in aswell, these clips are under the seat roughly in line with the bolts. Put your hands under the seat by each clip and pull up HARD! May take a few attempts especially if they are virgin clips! Slide that part of the seat out. Now for the vertical part of the seat, two 10mm bolts at the bottom of it, far right and far left. From the bottom, push the seat up (its on 3 upward facing hooks). Now thats out, look for japanese money, fuel reciepts, chopsticks, insects etc I have found all these in Jap cars Ok, The plastic panels covering the C and D pillar need to be loosened aswell as the part below it (where a passenger would rest their elbow), there is a screw behind the seatbelt and two screws in the things that people always hand clothes from. Otherwise just give the panels a pull and they will unclip. The reason these panels have to be removed is the C and D pillar panels have hooks going into the sides of the tray. Now they are loosesned, the tray can be lifted, it is again held on by clips only, slide your hand under the tray and wedge the clips off. You need to bend the tray a little to get it out, but its no major. There is usually a fine black mesh under the speaker grilles, remove it as it has become very brittle and if left there, can drop onto the speaker and into the voice coil, killing the speaker. I generally remove the entire spacer with the speaker in it, instead of trying to piss around with screwing a speaker in with a gap of a couple of inches. You need a stubby phillips and a 10mm ring spanner to get the factory spacers out. Look and then laugh at the 'quality' of your factory speakers, there is no surround left and the paper cone is brittle as hell! Unscrew the factory speaker from the spacer and replace with your new quality item You need 6" (or 6 1/2", same thing) to be a perfect fit. With the wiring, I cant see in my own car what colours I have because my two way speakers come with a sperate crossover so I have aftermarket wiring visable. But I can tell you from experience that black or black with a trace colour will be negative ...... blue, orange, green, brown etc will be positive. -(If you do a search and find this thread do NOT take those colours as gospel, Nissan changed them, alot! This is a similar car of a similar year)- It is important you get these colours correct otherwise your speakers will be out of phase and sound like utter sh|t. Depending on the new speakers, they may not fit in the metal part of the tray as it isnt a round hole, its mostly round with a straight edge. (you will see what I mean, hard to explain) If you have a fairly deep speaker, it wont fit, all you need to do is gently persuade the metal into shape with a hammer . I think thats pretty much it..... Just read this backwards and you have the instructions of how to put the car back together Hope that helps dude!

Take the stereo back out, insulate all wires and then take it to your local audio installer. He will know what he is doing. You connected the illumination wire to something you shouldnt have. There will be a blown fuse, recheck them.

Copied from a previous post I made ------------ You can buy an aftermarket 6x4" speaker but I'd highly recomend getting 6" to fit. Even better, go for 6" components. Remove the factory spacer and with a bit of paper/cardboard mark out the area around where the spacer used to be overlapping onto the metal enough to be able to screw it onto the door. Also you need to mark out where your 6" hole will be so it wont touch any metal. Use MDF about 12mm thick. Also, before you screw it onto the door, spray paint it so moisture doesnt get to it and make it expand.

The lazer might be out of alignment in which case the cleaner wont help. This is a common problem mainly for slighly older units. But I suppose it would come down to the amount of use its had and maybe the suspension you have/roads you drive over. I work in car audio and havent seen one pioneer come back under warranty (we sell them with a 3 year warranty)

Wire goes to ACC not earth.

Fair comment. I dont design them, we just sell/install a sub with the box size the manufacturer suggests. I guess its like a car. How detuned is a Skyline for example? Increase in flow in and out and the power goes up, alot. They are effectively designed in 'safe' mode

Damn straight!

Cheers guys! I have already looked in a couple of hardware stores and 1200 is the finest they have. It just felt too rough. Obviously not. 2GU UP 2 : Not everyone has the cash to do that, but why pay for someone to do it when you can do it yourself. Alot more stisfaction doing it yourself too. I'm pretty sure Boostn247 meant 1200 grit, not 120

Hey ladies and germs! I have seen some engine bays with highly polished plenums, J pipes, factory i/c piping etc. I have some spare time and I'd like to give it a go. I assume its done with sand paper? Can someone tell me exactly what needs to be done. What grit etc. Thanks heaps!

rms is irrelevent. Al is correct. You need to build a box with the specified volume from the manufacturer. It will sound like crap with the wrong size box. Not all 12" subs require the same volume.

ALL aftermarket single din stereos I have installed screw directly into the factory stereo brackets of ALL Nissans, except for the early 90's Terrano which requires a fitting kit. Pulsar, Skyline, Primera, Bluebird, etc etc are pretty much all the same to install stereos in. Toyotas are also more or less the same. Some require fitting kits aswell (ie: The Toyota Windom). Im still not understanding why a cage should be used.....

WTF Chris? Noooo Always use the factory stereo brackets. Toyotas, Nissans some hondas do not require a cage. If you use it, you will have to cut and fu

It needs to be bypassed, or run new wires to each speaker. Do a search, it must have been overed before!

Im amazed that no on has mentioned you may need to do an amp bypass. It may have already been done or it may not have a factory amp. To check, its a small round thing in the boot, screwed to the underside of the parcel tray

6" and 6.5" are the same. Any speaker can distort. Get a pair of components, yoi will not regret it, trust me! Ignore Sony and other cheap brands, there are huge quality differences. Go for Infinity or Kicker I work in car audio and Infinity was my choice. My mate has a big sound install and Kicker was his choice. You can hear the difference between awesome quality brands and the average. By the way, the front speakers I use (Infinity Kappa) are rated at 90 wrms

Firstly, its called VVL on Nissans. VVT is on Toyotas VVL was introduced in the R33 Series 2, I think. May be on the Series 1 too....?? Its a wonderful thing to have, I feel it after 5000 rpm. It gives huge kick to the point it feels like a second small turbo kicking in. Its by no means slow before 5000 rpm either Here is a pic of my engine bay, the 'lump' is just to the left of the sticker on the cam cover

LMAO Good call dude

In NZ any part from Nissan is damn expenive, im guessing Aussie will be similar. They should know exactly what you want if you just say you need L/H and R/H R32 stereo brackets. These are specific to the R32, nothing else will fit. Make sure you specify you need the left and right hand bracket as they are often sold seperately. Hope that helps

krzysiu : I said that in my original post Aerial has to go up to reach full height and down for half mast.... up, down up down etc

It makes the electric aerial go up n down! Aerial goes up, aerial goes down, aerial goes up, aerial goes down Well more accurately, it has 2 modes, full and half.

If you guys are keen to buy overseas check out www.aerotech.co.nz . They are made in Christchurch and the bumper I bought is a very nice fit (so my panel beater says). Pretty much no prep work except for a light sand. Prices on the site include mesh and indicators. John is a friendly guy, easy to deal with. Just thought I'd let ya know incase you cant find anything good locally

Well, I havent yet seen one of them lying on the floor after a theft. ButI dont think alot of people ue them here though

Hey guys.... I work at a respectable car audio shop in Auckland. Along with audio, we install alarms aswell however I install audio. We do alot of insurance work, mostly stolen and recovered so I get to see how theives break in and what they take (you would be very surprised at what they take sometimes). The main 2 ways they enter are -Smashing a window -Destroying drivers or passenger lock (Dont see a thief stealing keys but it does happen) -What they take - Anything, literally. (We dont just replace stolen stereos, if it isnt panel or mechanical we can replace it, dash, airbags, door handles/locks, sunroof, any interior parts!) Thieves will take anything, factory stereos, pod, interior lights, you name it. Depends if it was stolen for specific parts or just audio/after market parts Also the damage they do while inside the car can be devistating. A new dash is common, new stereo facia, auto shifters. We has a new Skoda in that had $23000 worth of damage, they slashed most interior parts NOTHING IS SAFE, ANYWHERE. Trust me, I see the aftermath daily at work. You would be amazed how many insurace customers tell me 'Its the first time I left the face on the stereo and it was left alone for 5 mins' ALWAYS remove your stereo faceplate and never leave it anywhere in the car. Steering locks are a waste of time. I could bypass one in seconds. Alarm wise, im not too sure what brands Aussie has but try hunt one that is Thatcham Catagory 1. That means its passed strict testingin Europe and is pretty much the best One such alarm is Selca. Its quality is above and beyond any other alarm in NZ. And you pay very well for it. Get lock nuts for your wheels, factory or not. Dont bother with 6x9s as they are highly visable. Again, always remove your stereo faceplate from the car!! If doing an amp install, use different types of screws. Multiple sirens on the alarm. Sirens must be battery backup. Dont leave your keys lying around the house at night, take them into your bedroom. My mate was burgled (while the family was asleep in the house) and just keys an wallets were taken. They left the mint Mustang in the garage alone. His skyline was parked on the road (very quiet street) and they tampered with it the night before setting off his alarm. They didnt find his keys luckily. Hell, I could rant on but I wont. If ya need to know anything specific feel free to pm me. Im not gonna get into how to break into certain cars without smahing a window, or how to start a car without a key.... but its very easy. I have said all this cos as I said, see it daily at work and im sick and tired of these f*ckwits stealing other peoples hard earned stuff. GRRR So im hoping you all can learn something, or become more aware and will now take action to stop these f*ckers Ok, thats my 57c worth, sorry I got a little greedy compared to the usual 2c