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Everything posted by Bleach1
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anyone heading up from wollongong?
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ok cool, thanks. 152nm just doesnt sound all that tight. I did a supra belt not long ago and it was 300nm. 152nm will be alot easier to crack i guess.
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anyone?
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c and v performance are in Odea avenue in alexandria/zetland/waterloo, depends who you ask. They are just near the Moore park supa center.
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I ended up getting the yellow caster rod bushes (super pro i think) and fitting them about a month ago. Cost me $100 for the bushes and fitted them myself. So far it feels a hell of alot better than the old non existent ones obviously. Seems to be alot more road feel at all speeds, turn in feels better and also seems alot smoother under braking. Not a bad $100 really.
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maybe we can try to arrange Mel gibson to drive a skyline in the new Mad Max movie!!!!!!!!
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There is very little really in the eastern suburbs. C & V would probably be the most well known place in the east that have alot of experience with turbo cars and id say they would have done plenty of skylines.
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I am doing a timing belt on an r32 gtst next weekend and have a few questions. 1. The Crank pulley bolt is 30mm? 2. The torque setting for the crank pulley bolt is 142nm then 152nm? 3. Does the crank pulley have threaded holes for a harmonic balancer puller or do you need a puller that pulls externally on the crank pulley? 4. Does the radiator need to be removed?
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im going along with some mates. Should be a good drive.
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Which Tyres? Motor Magazine test
Bleach1 replied to Duncan's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
The guys at motor seem to say you cant go past the Hankooks, which is a good thing since they are the cheapest tyre there. -
I have been using Mobil 1 0w40 for over a year now and the car has never missed a beat and the oil pressure has always been perfect. When i got the car the so called "import specialist" i baught the car from had been using shitty penzoil in all their cars. One of the first things i did was change to the mobil and noticed the engine revving much better. I dont really thing wear will become a problem with the thinner oil either.
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I have a set of Ultimates sitting right here waiting to be fitted to my r33 for when the urge to head to the track gets to strong. Exact part numers for ultimate. front: DB1170 ULT Rear: DB1220 ULT
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I love the gibson GTRs, im just old enough to remember watching their races in the Group A days. What was the event like? Seemed alot less crowded and also seemed to have a hell of alot less rednecks running around than the supercar race. I might have to head up next year. I cant believe the result, that was one of the biggest bits of bullshit i have seen in a long while. 20 mins to go and the #427 monaro all of the sudden has an over heating diff when it is 1 min ahead of the #05 monaro and once they eventually cooled it down and played around in the wheel arches with some air blowers it came out just behind #05 letting brocky take the big win number 10. I think channel 7 was going to start inventing races there for peter brock if he didnt win this one. I seriously hope my suspicions are all wrong for the sake of aussie motorsport.
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they are definatly not the same. Tie rods go from the steering rack to the front stub axles. Caster rods go from the front sub frame on to a lower control arm. Completly different.
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A friend of mine was getting work done at Toysports in penrith. Not sure exactly what but they had a supra half cut of his and a few otherthings like a diff and gear box and so on. He has already paid for all the work to be done and it seems they have shut up shop and taken off. Basically they have stolen a few grand worth of of stuff from him and not done any of the work he paid for it seems.
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BelGarion, Have you tried Redline oil? I have a similar problem but have been told to try redline oil before i go for the final resort, a rebuild. You didnt mention what oils you have tried.
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I need to replace the caster rod bushes on my R33. Do the nismo bushes really make that much of a difference compared to the standard ones and are they prone to splitting like the standard bushes? Also can anyone really see the value of buying the adjustable rods for around $460 a pair if you do plan to eventually do a little track work or would the nismo ones give enough of a handling gain with the standard rod?
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I dont know about the Blitz timers but the HKS timers with speed and tacho inputs have a calibration setting. As in you press a button then once you reach 40kph you press it again which teaches the timer the how to read the speed signals. Id say if the speed on the timer is going up with the speed of the cluster even if its reading wrong it should be wired correctly.
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does it have coil overs?
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There is a place in Hurstville in sydney called The GP shop. They have a heap of old touring car posters including a few of the skylines.
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I have a power steering leak on my R33 and since its almost time for rego i wanted to fix it up. Before i looking for the source does anyone know of any common places on an r33 where the power steering leaks?
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With a 100K service on an RB engine alot of people like to do the water pump when they do the timing belt because the pump is very easy to change once everything is off. They are pretty cheap pumps as well but have a reputation of leaking after 100,000k's. At the same time though it may last alot longer. I guess thats why alot of people wont bother.
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i can get it all for less than $60 through my work and that is 0w40 workshop grade. But no, I think Mobil 1 5w40 is around the $55 mark for 5L then another $10 for a decent filter.
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I would go with the Unigroup service and add the brake and clutch fluid change if it hasnt been done in a while. You could argue that alot of the stuff in the first quote isnt really needed. Checking all the cam and crank seals should be part of the Cam belt change anyway, Radiator and engine flushes, well if there is no sign of rubbish and corrosion in the cooling system there is a good chance there is no need for it and if Unigroup changed the coolant and noticed signs that it needed a flush they could maybe do it then. No need doing things that dont need to be done. Alot of the other things like lubricating hinges and stuff even a mechanically challenged person could really do on a sunday arvo. Some of the treatments that workshops give are also often not necessary. Alot of lesser work shops will do major services like the first quote then basically do as little as they have to, just what they are sure you will notice, and it happens a fair bit.
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Good to see some of the stupid comments stayed in the early parts of the thread. No need to bring SAU down to the level of some of the less intelligent forums around. If we were all enthusiasts of the same car it would be fairly boring. I mean maybe a seemingly large amount of commodore drivers are reckless because of how bloody cheap they are to buy and fix (the older ones anyway). The monaro 4wd doesnt look right to me. The flared guards and odd looking front bar just dont do it for me. I think maybe its because the standard Monaro is such a good looking car, there isnt much you can do to improve it, HSV hasnt been able to in my opinion. Its always good to see a new car with the very powerful 4wd combo. Aussie cars have come along way in the last 10 years. XR6T, new 285kw club sport, gts300, a 290kw falcon! 10 years ago ford didnt even have a V8. Still give me a GTR any day. Onto one of the ultimate typre v8 2 doors the SL55. Working for Mercedes i have driven a fair few of them now and every time i do i still smile and crap myself all at the same time. An absolutely unbelievable car. Any car that can get to 100 in 4.7 with the roof down and claim to be the fastest production car in the world to get to 300ks can park itself proudly next to the skyline. Then again for $400,000 (by the time its on the road) would you want any less. I find it very hard to justify spending that sort of money on a car. Not saying i wouldnt though if i was filthy rich..