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Everything posted by Bleach1
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I have major crunching problems from 3rd to 4th when it is hot or cold. I also have a slight crunch from 1st to 2nd when cold. It should only be the synchro but the synchro sleeve can be damaged as well but its not very common. Try some good new gearbox oil first or some treatment. I havent taken the box apart on a skyline but i have taken one out and they are big heavy buggers. I have done synchros on other cars and it isnt to hard. Some boxes you need to use a press to get bearings and so on off to replace synchros. I dont know about the skyline. Sorry to be not alot of help really...
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1:09.009 in my 300zx, only a stage 3 turbo as well... Maybe we can have like a class B for those of us who are less dedicated or dont have quite as much spare time on our hands. Which means i would be leading class B!!! I dont get the pricing in GT3 from the tune shop. I mean it is 1800 credits for the sports front mount which is about right in AU$ terms fitted. You can get a full racing transmission for $10400 fitted, but $47,000 for a set of tyres? Rip off...
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Once again i will try to come as it has been a while since i last opened the skyline up. May bring a friend of 2 with skylines as well. How many people look like they will be attending?
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Check your fluid reservoir for the Hicas and if you have and aftermarket wheel make sure it has a HICAS compatible boss kit.
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A friend of mine just got an r32. It has a about $130,000k's on it. THe car has had a bit of work done to it and has an aftermarket turbo installed. The turbo it pissing out oil. My question is, is there any point in getting a gasket for the turbo as it is aftermarket may be different to origional? If it is different what sort of gasket paper can be used on the extremely high temps of a turbo? Is there anywhere else on the turbo oil could leak from?
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That is a copy out of that skys the limit book. There is a PDF of the complete book floating around here somewhere.
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I had started sorting all those diagrams in to group number and page numbers and so on a while back. Lost interes though. Will get back around to it eventually. Maybe put it into a very basic parts finding program or somethng.
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that is a really poor description. You will get a decent answer if you describe the sounda bit more. From that all i can say is check the cross member bolts and rubbers condition.
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As grim said, i think the Series one doesnt have sentral locking. Just an auto lock from the door controls. It was probably an option though. Series 2 came with it standard. Not 100% sure about any of that though.
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I think you answered youre own question. Check the ps fluid level.
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i have installed a few sets of koni shocks in my time and they seem to be really good value for money. The adjustable sports shocks actually can sometimes be handy as well. Also if you care going to do the shocks you should do the springs as well. Springs are cheap. $300 or less for a set of firmer ones. Also when you do the shocks you have to remove the springs anyway.
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difference between r33 and r33 m spec
Bleach1 replied to john's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
look at the faq. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=17349 If you mean between an m spec and a non m spec, i think all the r33 turbos are m spec. -
Meet up north shore somewhere, head south, re group at la perouse and he off to cronulla. Nice areas to stop there and ussually plenty of eye candy... Then for the people who are game, head along to Kernell for some illegal street racing for Blue slips. 2 fast 2 furious style!
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P plater clocked @ 176km/h in an s14 200sx!! [MERGED]
Bleach1 replied to rb25's topic in General Automotive Discussion
My thoughts are that if you feel the need to drive at those speeds (most of us here do) and you are going to do it on a public road at least do it somewhere out of the city where you can see along way ahead and make sure no one else is around. I couldnt care less what danger people put themselves in when it wont harm anyone other than themselves. The point with the media is also very valid. 176kmh is easily reachable in a falcon or a decent little 2litre hatch. I dont see how calling it a lethal missile and so on is really adding anything to the story. If some of you can remember maybe 6 months ago or more a guy around 20 or so died sadly in a crash in sydney's southwest if i remeber correctly. The reports were all over the tv and new papers saying how he was street racing in his high powered nissan skyline GTR. Then in most of the papers was a list of lethal cars and a slight description. ie WRX, 0-100 in 5.4seconds and available for as little as $20,000). The thing about the story was there were pictures of the crashed car and it was just and old r31 silhouette, turned out to be his parents car apparently. I think more often than not the media looks for good headlines first and an accurate report second. -
Whacky Wheel question - pics required...
Bleach1 replied to B-Man's topic in General Automotive Discussion
i was close to getting gold wheels on my white r33, a bit to showy in the end. gold and silver not so keen on.. no pics though, sorry. -
Eastern beaches then down to cronulla!
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1:13.965 in a 2000cc (sr20det) silvia K...
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yeah, mine were exactly the same, DAMMIT! i threw them away. sorry.
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why are there such varying opinions to do with Pods especially and FMICs? Wouldnt a quality pod with the correct partitioning and a good cool air source be less restricitive than the standard air box even with a K & N insert? WIth Front mount intercoolers, if a car is running higher than standard Boost, say 10psi wouldnt the cooler intake temperatures and the added boost make any potential lag created because of the longer distance that needs to be flowed be very limited? Basically do the advantages outweigh the flaws if it is all done right?
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Most companys wont insure you at all if you are under 25, and living in NSW for me it was impossible to get 3rd party fire and theft. The best quote i got was $3500 but i got it down to 3 grand. i have my car insured for $30,000 though and NRMA was quiting me over $3000 for an old VN commodore.
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that is fkn rediculous, no one in their right mind would drive around in that. Wouldnt you be better off buying an older or base model impreza and putting a decent body kit on it? and they also say that it will be cheap to insure. I wouldnt be suprised that with all thar stupid extra plastic kit it actually ends up been way more than the standard car.
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its always a good idea to try and tap into a sensor as close to the ecu as possible im told. Somehting to do with accuracy id say. Was told by and auto elec once.
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A friend of mine has a r32 GTST with a 3inch exhaust, mines ecu, running 10psi and a few other minor engine mods. He is experiencing a problem where under acceleration in 4th gear the clutch seems to slip. I have driven a fair few cars with slipping clutches in my time but generally they will slip in the lower gears moreso than in the higher gears. This car only seems to do it in 4th and occasionaly 3rd. The problem is intermittent as well and does not occur all the time. If a clutch is the problem does anyone have any advice on a suitable clutch for someone with the above mods and someone who does drive the car quite hard occasionally. The guy doesnt want to spend to much on a clutch. (a $2000 clutch is way out of the question). Can anyone tell me some prices/part numbers for the respective clutches available for an r32 gtst?
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yeah, i have seen that car many times down in the shire (gods country). Very nice indeed.
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I give up. Cant get better than a 1:13.238 or something. Im using my 1051hp Vspec though and with a hand controller, i cant get better than a 1:15 with the penziol car. I think ill stick to grand prix 4 on the PC.