Bleach1

Been a 4th year apprentice and working weekends at an Auto 1 makes seriving my R33 series II quite cheap. But if you are paying $250 for an oil and filter change, spark plugs, a rotate and balance and an alignment as well as a general check over then thats not to bad, especially if that includes parts. Doing the plugs on the r33 is time consuming compared to most straight 6 engines and just roatating and balancing wheels with an alignment takes time. I generally do an Oil and filter change, Fuel filter, plugs and a general checkover for people i know with skylines for about $90 plus parts. I wont do skylines that are slammed on the ground any more though, that is just way to hard, esspecially since i just do them in a workspace at home. Working with a hoist is much easier. Anyway, point been, $250 isnt overly expensive.

i see a niismo Blue 88 prelude with gtr style rear lights and a grt style front bar around the eastern suburbs of sydney. The worst thing it it has GTR badges. It makes me want to throw up.

The lower windscreen seal between the screen and the plastic covers of the drain system and so on on the front is very loose on the ends of each side. It keeps popping out for about 10 cm either side. i can seem to find a way to fasten or thighten anything down to stop it. Has anyone else seen this and know of an easy fix, or is a new seal required and so on? Id say it would be quite cheap though anyway. Also i have an odd noise comming from the what sounds like factory BOV area. I dont think it is meant to be like this but i dont have any other r33 to compare it to. After comming of the accelerator while giving the car some or at least putting the engine under a bit of load i will hear the factory BOV do its job then a second or 2 later hear a semi loud cherp. Since i cant make it do this while the car is stationary it is very hard to pinpoint this sound. This leads me to think it is something to do with the BOV. Has anyone else come across this?

Couldnt you just run another relay of the high beam switch to the headlights. So when you turn your high beam on you also turn your low on. Obviously there would be a few other things to do. That would be the basics of it.

Slick 50 has similar products and are quite common in australia.

$180 isnt to bad for all 4 shocks. Think about it. At $60 an hour labour you would be paying $45 a shock. It would take a few hours to do all 4. Although a Suspension specialist should probably be a little more efficient.

i saw the 88 - 89 model prelude the other day with the rear lights replaced with twin circle skyline lights, a gtr front bar, painted in nissan nismo Blue and worst of all wearing GTR badges. God i wish i had a camera. That car should be banned. I saw it in eastern subs of sydney.

Was ABS an option on the r33 series 2?

i have seen a series one r33 with the active LSD in a sydney car yard.

I was 19 when i got my r33. I worked at coles after school from about 15 until i finished school at 17 (almost 18). I got a s13 when i was 17 from the money i had saved working at coles. After school i started full time employment i worked my ass off for 2 years working 2 jobs. I traded my s13 in on my r33. The r33 is a 97 model and was $30,000. Got $8000 for the silvia, had another $5000 saved. Got a loan for $17,000. From the time i saw the car on a sunday i had the loan and the car by wednesday. All i really needed was to tell them i had been in my job for 2 years. I dont think they (national bank) checked though, i never even told them where i worked. I only gave them 2 fake pay slips (because ti was all so quick i couldnt get my most recent pay slips so i just re typed soem old ones with different dates (my pay slips are computer print outs). So really all i needed was 2 pay slips. My Silvia and i have about $15,000 worth of tools as security. My loan broaker would have deposited $2000 into my acount to make a savings history if i didnt have one. The funny thing is that the Stgeorge bank who i have banked with for years and have all my savings with wouldnt give me a loan to save my life. I didnt need Comprehensive insurance either which was good.

Has anyone fitted a HSK turbo timer type 1 to an r33 (series 2)? I have seen a small optional loom is recomended. Has anyone wired one up without this Small loom peice?

its good for mineral oil. its about $25 - $30 for 5L.

i had a s13 silvia and it has a totally different front suspension. The s13 has very similar suspension to the s14. So i dont think much would be interchangable from s14 to r32.

I have QuickTrack on my skyline and a turbo timer. I ended up just getting them to install them together. The QuickTrack wasnt worth me stuffing up installing the timer myself. All i know is as you said some alarms have a way of installations for turbo timers. Im in the eastern Suburbs of sydney (not to many tough skylines around here) and the onle place that you could get one is this little Asian car parts place just off the big kingsford round about next to the shell. Other than that most import wreckers like unique autosports or Just jap or something have them. They arent close. I think you can buy over the net and have them delivered though.

Sciby, i was just refering to something someone else said in the thread. VMX80 is what castrol recommends for most high performance nissans from about 91 - 97. That is for normal driving conditions though. If you drive really hard maybe you would want to use something else.

i Think a r32 is fine. If you are an idiot you will crash it an get into trouble no matter how old you are. If you are 17 and responsible you wont have a problem. and if you are going to do anything stupid make sure its in a nice quiet area with no one sle around so the only thing you can hurt/break is your car and yourself.

I am getting around 300 to 350ks from a tank in my stock r33. That is city driving with the occasional Booting. Sometimes as the lights and so on i can smell fuel fumes. I think its actually pretty terrible economy. I had a Non turbo silvia for 3 years and i would always get 450-500k's in city driving from a tank. Not half the car the skyline is though.

Its a good idea to use a new sump washer. When you fill a skyline i ussually put just under 4L then run it just long enough to fill the filter, then leave it for a few mins and top up the oil until its the right level. If you just put 4.5L in first time it will ussually be over full from the left over oil in the sump. It doesnt matter how long you leave it there will be a bit of oil still in the engine. I use Mobil 1 0w40 workshop Grade. Its the best oil i have used so far. You can notice a slight difference between that and the Mobil 1 5w40, its hard to get though unless you work for a Work shop that uses it. I have changes Gear Box oil in 2 r32's. You only need a Half inch Ratchet. There is one plug on the bottom and one on the side. The one on the bottom is to drain the gear box and the one on the side is to fill and set the level. Once the Oil is drained put the bottom plug on then if you havent already taken the side plug off. Now you will want to have some sort of hand pump to pump the oil from the bottle into the gear box. Once the oil starts spilling out the side plug as you are filling it, stop and leave it for 5 mins or until it stops dripping. This is the box draining until its level is correct. (just below the plug). Refit plug. Now if u cant be bothered getting a hand pump (like i couldnt the first time i did it) the best way to fill it will be to take the Gear stick surround out and then take the stick out and fill the manual box though the top. With a funnel of course. It should take about 3.5 to 4L. I have used Catsrol VMX80 and the boxes have been smooth as silk. After you have filled it through the stick just remove the level Plug and let it drain till it stops again. I havent yet done it on my R33 or an Auto. Cant be to different to any other Auto Box but.

My throttle cable clicks a fair bit, its especially noticable when you are just tapping the throttle. I have tried to adjust this out. Is this ussual as i havent been able to compare it to another r33 as of yet Also My factory BOV is making a chirping noise after it goes off. I havent been able to compare this either to another R33. The car is basically Stock.

Arent the brakes on a r32 GTS the same as on the GTR? I know for sure the pads are exactly the same.

a centerforce clutch is rerally good. The pressure plate springs change their tension with rpm so at light rpm the clutch is light and at high rpm it is eavy for more strength. a bit more expensive though.

thanks for the info. 1.5 inches makes a suprising amount of difference to the looks and with a good set of shocks make a huge difference to the handling.

Where in sydney are some places to get power figures from a dyno and about how much does it cost? Im in the east of sydney.

Ozzy, sorry this is off the topic. is that just the standard front GTR bar in the little pic of you're car? (im assuming its yours). It looks wicked> better than alot of the other gtr style bars i have seen around latley.

I am about to buy some lowered springs for my R33, but i would like to keep my camber as close to stock as possible as i cant afford to let 18inch tyres wear to unevenly. Is the r33 able to have camber adjustments with the factory suspension components? If not what is the cheapest (not an adjustable racing camber kit) way to keep say 0 or -1degrees or whaterver it is from factory of camber? If i am only getting 1.5inch lowered springs will i need matched shocks or will the stock ones be ok and not bottom out? I am planning on getting some good adjustable shocks eventually as i would like to do some track days but would like to leave it untill i can really afford them. Im not interested in a set of coil overs, the ride is way to harsh.