dazmo

Everything in the kit is brand new mate this is a brand new complete kit. As this is the last full kit I have for sale as I have two more going onto some project cars I'm willing to take $6500.00 absolute bottom dollar to move it.

I have a couple of these still for sale price dropped to $100.00

Price drop $400.00

You still looking mate ? I have a couple of options for R33GTR

Bump Would like these gone and this is a great price.

Bump Would like these gone and this is a great price.

PM sent mate.

Price dropped again guys bottom dollar $450.00 delivered is a great price for brand new genuine gauges (not cheap rip offs). Would like them gone someone take them off my hands !!!

Price drop down to $7000.00 great price for a very comprehensive kit. Got a big dollar engine build protect your investment or bullet proof your track car.

Price dropped asking $500.00 with pick up or free postage anywhere in Australia.

RB26 Hi Flow Billet Fuel Rail, Duel inlet fuel rail to suit 11mm injectors manufactured from 6061 T6 Billet aluminium comes supplied with all mounting hardware fitted with -6an fittings (-8 fittings optional) 1 x set of 6 Viton o'rings, 1 set of 6 x OEM injector seals. Anodised Blue perfect upgrade for big HP aplications. Located on the Gold Coast $120.00 + postage.

Defi BF Boost and Fuel Pressure gauges and defy control module allowing you to add additional gauges at anytime by simply plugging in required sensors and loom into control box. Brand new unused comes complete with all sensors wiring looms and mounting brackets as supplied with Defi gauges. Blue backlit display will not seperate will sell as complete package only. Pick up on Gold Coast or will ship at no additional cost asking $600.00

Good to see the car is finally going Bobby it will be interesting to see the final results mate. The build is a credit to you mate !!!

Nice work on the restoration mate. epic result !!!

Please read the entire post mate i do mention at the bottom of the post that the pump pictured is the older style G Rotor pump but the kit will be supplied with an R4 Pump.

Yeah Gavin the pump in my set up is mounted in the boot with the lines running under the car as my car still has rego. A lot of guys with track only "Non Rego Cars" will often mount the tank on the passenger floor. Hi racegtst the pump and pulleys will be the same but I would need to machine a separate bracket for the pump mount if you are definitely interested send me a pm and we can discuss further.

As stated in the title brand new dry sump kit for RB26DETT will fit R32, 33 or 34 GTR requires modified front sway bar for clearance of the pump (Whiteline sway bar supplied with R32 GTR kit) The kit has been extensively tested on several 450 + KW GTR's and is the kit the Employment Medicine R32GTR that will be running at world time attack is fitted with. The kit consists of. 1 x Peterson (R4 Model) 5 stage oil pump. 1 x billet oil pump mounting bracket. 1 x Peterson 3 gallon oil tank. 1 x oil tank mount. 1 x Breather tank (for the main oil tank) 1 x billet drive spindle to suite either ATI 1000HP/ATI600HP balancer. 1 x billet oil block (replaces factory heat exchanger oil filter mount). 1 x remote oil filter mount. 1 x Custom internally baffled RB26 sump with 3 oil pick ups. (front diff not included). All oil pump drive pullys and belt. All bolts required. All the billet parts in the kit are machined from 7075 T6 aircraft grade aluminium and anodised black. The only thing required to fit the kit are braided hose and fittings. Please Note; The pump shown in the pics attached is the older style G Rotor Peterson 5stage pump the kit is now supplied with the newer R4 style pump. THE PRICE FOR THE KIT IS $7500.00 INTERESTED PARTIES PLEASE PM OR CALL ME ON MOB PH 0417305401. DAZ.

Coming along Nicely Luke.

25 neo < 20 < 26 = win Will see you at the track soon Todd. Got some enthusiasm back and getting back on deck after a small hiatus so have a few plans afoot.

Trent I also have a PST carbon shaft in my car and have fitted one to another car that you would know fairly well. Sold one to another guy and have never had a complaint from him. I also have another one here waiting to be fitted to another car currently in the build.I would recomend them as they were good to deal with and where reasonably priced individually but are flexible on price if you organize a group buy. Give me a call if you want contact details.

In standard for they are m4 bolts. There is no stud to put a nut onto (Have built quite a few RB's so have a bit of an idea of whats in them).

Wont be heat or vibration that has caused your problem mate. As these are never a problem on a standard engine and there are many that have done 100000 + klm's without this issue. Bearing in mind that cam cover baffles are not a part that actually see's any load at all so the extra power output has nothing to do with it. It will simply be a case of the bolts being reused and overtorqued. You are extremely luck that no major damage was done. Best bet would be to replace with new bolts off the top of my head i think the torque seeting if 4-5ft/lb but i would double check.

Cheers Noel nearly pulled the pin but glad i did decide to head up. Shame i missed you Mark I didnt turn up untill around 2pm. Was a bit of a handfull in the conditions. Especially since I had the car set up with 5 deg negitive camber front and 2.5 deg negitive in the rear so was not an ideal set up for a wet track on a street tyre. Even though there was a partial dry line with a bit of standing water and a fair bit of damp track at least it was only slight drizzle. Was a bit of fun trying to get a feel for the car anyway after very limited track time in the car then a 12month abscence from the track and a new brake set up on the car. All in all a lot to try and come to grips with. Had the boost turned right down and car was going well obviously there will be a few tweaks to sort out befor i next hit the track. Need to fit a brake bias as the car seems to have a little to much rear bias and seems a little taily under brakes and a few other little tweaks. The only real drama I had was the car throwing a power sterering belt wich took out the dry sump belt. Was a bit of luck that it happened under brakes on decell and was able to shut the engine down imeidiatley so shouldn't have done any damage. Had a spare dry sump belt wich i threw on and started the engine and everthing seemed fine. Engine still had plenty of oil pressure and sounded fine. So will just have to check the filter on the scavage return in the next day or so to make sure there are no nasty's in there but should be fine. Looks like this might be enough motivation for me to set up a electric power steering set up so I wont have to worry about this scenareo ever happening again.

Hey mate dont use the nismo arms they are fixed with no adjustment and really just an overpriced slightly better version of stock arms with better bushes and painted silver and are definately not value for money. The ikea stuff is the pick of the bunch for quality and adjustment. The HKS suspension is rubbish as well as the valving system is not even a propper needle and seat system it is basiclly and rubber bush that squashes with the adjustment to allow less/more fluid movment. The spring rates you mentioned will be way to stiff for australian tracks. Dont look to much into the japanese suspension settings as there tracks generally have a much better surface than any ozzy tracks i have seen so there settings are pretty irrelivent for our conditions 8 and 6 would be a much better starting point. I would reccomend 1.5 way diffs front and rear. Local sway bars are just as good as the majority of jap branded swaybars. The only real advantage to be had with some of the jap branded sway bars is in a slight weight saving due to some being a hollow bar as opposed to locally made bars that are all solid but it is a very marginal weight advantage and IMHO not worth the extra cash. It is all good to be a brand whore as a lot of us are (myself included) but sometimes there is a cheaper part that will do the same and occasionally a better job than some of the brand name gear and some of the big brand gear is not as good as what the you would think it is case in point is the HKS suspension. I would just reccomend researching whatever parts you are going to buy as there is nothing wrong with spending money on brand name parts as long as they are value for money and you are not just buying them because they have a brand name printed on them.

Meet was rained out. Should run a number once he can get it to the track