dazmo

That would be what I would have expected that it runs the motec diff controller and as Richard stated and was personally told by the owner that the majority of the extra performance came from the tuning of the maps for the diff controll via the MOTEC diff controller and from what the owner/driver stated it seems that a lot of time and effort went into this process. So it seems the extra performance would have a lot more to do with this and a lot less to do with the fact the car runs a Vipec ecu. When making generalized statements about how much better a particular cars performance is due to changes made it would be a lot more informative to give the whole story and not just the part that suits a particular point of view. Not having a go at anyone but just stateing that by not giving the full story people may be led to make assumptions that are not based on all the facts.

So is it the case that the diff maps in the EVO can be tuned thru the Vipec just the same as they can in the Motec ? as this would no doubt be a huge advantage to be able to customize diff maps and as Richard said would no doubt be the major difference in performance in the car. That is some good results you are getting from your circuit GTR will be good if you could get up to QLD when your up here next and get out to one of Paul Ruzics track days for a few laps. Would be good to catch up again.

Hey mate I have the LCA's and tie rod ends on my car and have not done anything to them and not experianced any problems whilst driving around although I have not had the car out for its first track outing yet (where you would be unlikely to have a problem) I have done around 1000klm's driving without any hint of a problem so I wouldn't be concerned mate.

My car runs splitfire coils with the standard igniter without an issue and is making around the 600 AWHP (dyno proven 560 AWHP @7100 rpm with a bit more tuning done on the street hence no dyno sheet max rpm at the moment 8500) see details of the car in my build thread in the motorsport section. Why spend cash on a CDI system if it is not 100% neccessary. Go with the stnd igniter and some coils to begin with and get the CDI only if you find that you are having issues with spark.

Hey Phil I would say that the the oil hole in the crank not lining with the bearing journel is due to it being a defective crank (cheap copy) as machineing for undersized bearings would not move the the hole in the crank anywhere near as much as what is shown in that pic. Although it would move them very slightly it would not be enough to cause any issue as any machineing for undersized bearings is generally only by .25mm so wouldnt have much of an effect in this area. And guys that is enough of the Vipec debate if you want to debate this start another thread. I doubt this car will end up useing on anyway as it will more than likely be getting tuned by the same tuner that does my car and as I have stated he has a preference for Motec this is still not 100% decided but is looking like the route we will be taking.

LOL

Thanks for that mate I will file those no's away for future reference.

Thanks for the comments guys. Richard my car is running the genuine HKS 2530's wich i belive are better than the garret's but they would need to be to justify the cost of them but I have fitted a set of Garret 2860-5's to matty car wich are a great turbo for the price and can be had really cheap if you soarce them from the right place. I am sure with your contacts you could get a set of HKS turbos for the right price and if you can I would highly reccomend them. I dont have another dyno sheet or current power level as the rest of the tuneing has so far been done on the road to give more real world conditions I will probably get it back on the dyno at some stage but to be honest am not to concerned with getting a sheet with a no on it and am more iterested in the seat of the pants feel of how the care actually drives I have left the boost pretty much where it was just a very small increase up to 23psi fitted the EBC and trimmed the maps up so i would estimate that it is making a little over 600AWHP at 8500rpm will check and fine tune it some more at it first track session . For the moment that will be plenty of power considering the handycap that the car has. Namely the driver . Angus that is comforting to hear as i did a lot of reasearch before taking the path with the gearbox and didnt expect that I would have dramas but it is good to having that confirmed by someone that has experiance. I am currently in the process of fitting the gearbox at the moment and will have it finnished off tommorow so will be good to have a drive with it installed. I must say a big to 9KRPM for the use of his hoist as this has made the job a lot more bareable than attempting the conversion on the floor at home. I owe you some shed time buddy

Mate My car is running without any problems at all with the step2 HKS 2.8 crank I am not concerned at all and dont believe that I have any need to be as there are plenty of cars running this kit both here and in japan without issue. I do agree with Roy a little on the issue of you pushing the vipec cart Paul. I can understand that you believe it to be a great product but I personally dont believe that it is any better than a Motec that is based of speaking with my tuner and a few other people that have converted to Vipec. My tuner prefers Motec but is not linked to Motec in anyway so has no finacial reason to say they are better as if he sold and installed Vipecs he would probably make more money out of it due to Motecs extremely small trade discount structure. As far as being qouted 10k to install a M800 in your car I believe that someone is having a lend of you there. And on the Evo now idling and firing the ingnition at the right time I would say that that is a set up issue not an ecu issue and whoever set it up was obviously not on the ball. I have no issue with my cars idle or ingnition at all and i dont see that to many V8 super cars have an issue either. As I have stated in other threads whatever ecu you run it is only as good as the guy that is punching in the no's and I believe that there are more capable ecu's than there are capable tuners so i will stick to what my particular tuner prefers recomends and has had great results with and for mye that means Motec. Just for the record mark used to get a bit of advise of my tuner when he was fisrt starting out !!! not to take anything away from him and his achievements but he has been tuning cars for less than half the time that the guy i use has. and for me personally experiance counts for a lot.

Nismo fine spec engine with n1 off spec sump drive will make for a fully sick response super amazing track monster !!!.

Mate you chop and change your mind more than the bomber man Will give you a race when your all done but it will include some corners none of this straight line stuff .

Those are some lovley vids (ads) that you have linked to there that are virtually void of any real tech info apart from how a clutch actually works wich I would assume most people in the motorsport section have a fair understanding of. Correct meif I am wrong but I was under the belief that the excedy carbon clutches are not actually a true (100%) carbon clutch. The actual friction material certainly does not look like it is 100% carbon they look like a woven blend of carbon and another material unlike the ATS clutch wich is 100% carbon. I have heard several bad reviews of the excedy carbon clutches but have not used one personally so cant comment from 1st hand experiance with their carbon clutches but going from my own experiance with some regular excedy cluthes theat have not been great and going from the experiance of others I dont think that I would take the chance with my hard earned money.

Sorry to see especially on its maiden event but I guess thats racing for you. Hope it all gets sorted quickly for you without to much expense.

If you a buying a set of shock my advise would be always buy a reputable brand that has built its reputation over years of R&D a few examples Bilstien, Ohlans, Kony, Tien avoid cheap (generally shit) brands like the plauge. This includes all of the seemingly exotic looking shit that comes out of china taiwain that might look the goods on the outside with shiny aliminium body reomote canister's etc wich seem quite popular with the drift scene. Remember that the drift scene is not about grip and handling so any opinion on shocks based on their experiance I would take with a grain of salt. This also includes some of the biger name japanese stuff from tuning companys that are not suspension specific companies and all the local companies that specialize in generic shopping trollies.

Hey Coop no update for a while hope it is all going well any news on the progress ?

I will still stick with my origanal comment ATS for the win IMHO and as I stated once you use one you will never go back to a conventional clutch 1 of the GTR track cars i have built rego 26R32 has been running one of these clutches for 2 years now and has done a shite load of race klm's is making 500awhp and has never had a problem when the engine was last out of the car the clutch plates looked as if they had hardly worn at all by far the best clutch from my experiance expensive but worth every cent.

Some nice pics there mate no surprise there though all of your pics I have seen are top quality. The white lotus looks extremely horny very nice car.

The conversion kit is not included with the clutch to the best of my knowlage well it didnt come with mine anyway but ATS sell everything as a kit wich I have on the way should arrive within the next week or so and will then be installing the box straight away. Though my clutch was purchased in japan so ATS USA may supply the conversion kit with the clutch no doubt at a greater cost if that is the case.

With the sort of boost that Dirt is talking about with a splash of good fuel that power level wouldn't be unbelievable. My own car R33GTR RB28 with 2530's is making 417awkw on 1.4bar (21psi) at at only 7100rpm on bp ultimate pump fuel and the power on the dyno sheet is still climbing so with full rpm 8500 it would be making an easy 425awkw and 2530's dont really come into their effeciancy untill the see at least 1.7bar (25psi) anyone wanting to check out the dyno graph it is posted in my build thread in the motorsport section dazmos R33GTR track car.

Merli my personal advice would be to go for an ATS twin plate carbon clutch I use these in my missus R32GTR(305awkw) daily driver and my R33GTR and have one that will be going into the R33 when i do the getrag conversion. They are a great clutch i cant reccomend them highly enough once you use one you will never go back to any other brand this is just based on my personal experiance I have used OS, excedy, Nismo and would rate that ATS much better than all of them.

I have an ATS twin plate carbon clutch in my R33GTR and also Have one in my missus R32GTR (daily driver) and have another that will be going into my R33 when I do the Getrag 6 speed conversion am just waiting for the pull to push conversion to turn up for my getrag. These are a brilliant clutch by far the best I have ever used/driven they have a good feel very progressive pick up, light pedal very close to standard they handle plenty of power I have the 900ps version in my R33 and the 800ps version in my missus daily. They also last 2-3 times as long as convensional clutches. I cant recomend these clutches highly enough. Once you use one of these clutches you will never go back to a conventional clutch. I will be selling the R33 clutch once I have done the getag conversion so if anyone is interested keep an eye out in the for sale section.

The factory ecu uses the wheel speed sensors for the abs so you shouldnt have a problem there. the Motec fuel pressure sender was $240 inc plug it is a honywell sensor i will dig out the part no for you or if Paul see's the thread first no doubt he may beet me to it.

Hey mate you wont have a problem useing this system with your M800. As Paul stated above i have an M800 in my car and have just piggybacked the output for rpm, intake temp,water temp from my Motec and just picked up motec fuel pressure sensor and will be doing the same with this signal aswell. Wheel speed signal is from the factory ecu as i still have the factory ecu in the car so is really just oil temp and pressure sensors that are required wich are probably the cheapest sensors anyway. Is really not that much extra work to wire it this way. It would be more convienent if it did just plug into the motec via the can bus but i dont think that there is enough demand for that with the motec as i think the vipec is more within most peoples budget and I think a lot of the more hardcore cars that run motec systems would be useing their ADL2 data logger wich i could not justify the cost of at around the 5k mark before you set it up and add aditional sensors etc when Pauls product does essentially the same thing for less than half of that amount. And as stated by 9KRPM Pauls system is extremely flexable and allows you to make suggestions to what you would like the system to ba able to do of wich Paul is more than happy to develop so the system is constantly evolving into an even better product. I would not hesitate to reccomend this system to anyone as the price is very reasonable and having had the oppertunity to work with Paul to help develop the system he is extremely keen to constantly evolve the system and is really helpfull and takes all suggestions and comments on board. To me i would say it is one of the best value for money investments I have put into my car as a lot of people would spend as much on a bunch of guages that in the end add aditional weight take up to much room in the car and give you no data logging capability and no real option for configureing multiple warnings such as as oil pressure vs RPM just to give one example.

Hope the car came thru unscathed coop is always a nerveous time getting a new car/set up sorted especially when your first real shake down is compition event. Any results from the event ?. Hope all went well.

Will be able to give you an idea of pricing as i dont think the machining required for the ross balancer will be much different than the ATI but as i have not made a pump drive for the Ross balancer I would need to get my hands on one to make some measurments for the machining is you decided to stick with the Ross. But in saying that ATI for the win in IMHO.