dazmo

PM on its way in a few days Merli is definatly a worthy investment once you get your good engine on the go. I asume that you are running an ATI balncer on your car just need to know what balancer as the pump drive prive varies a bit depending on balancer.

hey toddlls you left a message on my missus GTR (white R32) yesterday about track day seeems its a small world hey lol. She wont be at the next track day as i am about to give her GTR a bit of love so she can get out there again she has been to a few track days and loves them but her car has been a bit neglected for the last 12 or 18 months while i have been building my car among a few others. Will put up a post about it when i get to it just needs a few mods to the cooling and oil controll systems and a bit of a tidy up to get it to the point where she can get back out there for some laps.

I would be pissed mate that is why i do all my own work as some of these so called reputable workshops are pretty clueless and charge people a fair amount for the pleasure of them stuffing things up . I have a prepped stnd crank here 33pump drive grub screwed and nitrided is .25 from memory but will have to give it a measure up to be sure pm or call me if you are interested mate as is ready to go. hope all goes well for you and you can get it sorted for the next time attack day mate. Will have some pricing on the dry sump gear for you in the next few days aswell will shoot you a pm as oon as i have it all worked out.

That set up will be fine mate. If you are concerned about air flow make up some ducting to run to the rotors this is recomened regardless of how much clearance you have anyway.

I will definatly be there for the afternoon session looking forward to getting out there for the cars first shakedown. Fingers crossed should be on top of all the little gremlins associated with a completely new set up.

Big call refering to this car as a POS dont you have an R31 LOL

Just out of curiosity what makes these three shops three of the best ?. Would just be interested as to what you base this statement on word of mouth, advertising, some ones recomendation ?. As from my own experiance i can tell you that you can not tune a car properly in 30 min 60 min would be pushing it for a good tune and the other place mentioned has sever attitude problems/very poor customer service and I personally know people that have had issues with all three of the workshops you have mentioned. So would just like to know your logic behind that statement.

+1 for binning the oil cooler if you have had an engine failure regardless of wether it is a cheapie or a good quality cooler I personally would never run a cooler that has had bearing material thru it. I believe that you have stated in another post that you have spent big$ on your engine build so dont risk it for the price of a cooler or you could very well be spending more. As far as the oil goes as duncan stated 8lt will get plenty hot enough so definatly run with the oil cooler. My car runs a dry sump set up and holds 12lt in the tank + lines and cooler so would be around 15lt all up and has no problem getting up to temp i run the oil cooler in the radiator end tank so gets everything up to temp reasonably quick and hold the temp at a very stable level.

Sorry my mistake Richard it was 07 that i took the pics i have of the Mspeed car as well. Though it seems we got shots of the exact same things only i think your shots are of a bit better quality than mine (mine were taken in hast (awe) on my phone) i will have a hunt around and see if i have any covering some of the stuff that is not in your pics. Merli you must be feeling like it is christmass over and over again with shiney new parts turning up regularly I have heard good things about the cusco sway bars and I can tell you from experiance that nothing beats the Ikea stuff me likey verry much.

I can tell you that the Mspeed car does not use any of the factory pickup points for the suspension and also has a full compliment of custom suspension arms that would correct roll centre etc. not to sure about the drive shaft angle though. The underside of the Mspeed car is a work of art having poked my head under it and had a good look at it and taken a few pics at last years Rev speed Tskuba la battle time attack event. I do believe that Mark and Russ might have borrowed a few ideas from that car for their new R34GTR. The amount of work that has gone into it is phenominal and i believe that a lot of the suspension was designed by ex super gt mechanics.

Hey guys i forgot to post specs of the shaft oops . The shafts are from precision shaft technolgy as bomberman was saying after the last fiasco with the acpt group buy i did not want to go down that road. They weigh in at 7kg are rated to 1200nm (1000ft/lb) of torque so should be well and truly up to the job the finnish is excellent so am keen to get it in the car to see the difference in response. I am currently in discussion with them about a distribution deal and can organize them for anyone interested the price in aud will obviously vary with the exchange rate but they work out to $1500 usd shipped to australia + gst and duty so are very reasonably priced for a top quality product turn around time is around 3-4 weeks from order date to delivery in aus so the service is great as well. This price is for individual shafts so may be able to get a slightly better price for a large order but bear in mind that these are already $200 usd cheaper than the list price for acpt shafts so there may not be as much room for them to discount them to much. Just to give you an idea i organized to purchase 6 of these shafts and the cost was $1450.00 usd shipped + gst and duty so i assume that it would have to be a pretty large order to get much more of a discount. If anyone is interested in getting one just shoot me a pm and i will be happy to help you out. Daz

Hey Richard the Kansai carbon kevlar and carbon covers are a nice bit of kit i run the plain carbon ones on my engine and the carbon kevlar ones are on mattys engine I am sure that they would be extremely strong but I couldn't bring myself to give it the kind of strength test you mention. I got mine for a good price though at tokyo auto salon a few years ago as HKS Kansai had them on special on their stand. Like you said it is getting there now just got to go thru the set up stage and actually learn how to drive it lol. Just a few new pics of some other quite sexy carbon that was delivered to me today just waiting on the ATS pull to push conversion it to turn up now and let the real fun begin.

Hey Michael I dont have any decent pics that show the sump pan very well I will take a few pics and send you a pm of the sump pan in the next few days as i should have one finnished pretty soon there are some pics of the tank and breather set up in my boot at the start of my thread. Here are some pics of the pump set up. The first 2 pics are not my engine but one i prepaired earlier this is the engine in 26R32 you can see the belt set up i refered to in an earlier post with the large tapered washer on the front of the pump drive that works as a guide for the belt to stop any drift of the belt. The last two are of my engine just to give you an idea of what the oil block that replaces the heat exchanger and the pump mounting bracket look like. Sorry about the poor phone quality pics though.

Just a quick update had the car back on the dyno over the weekend gave it just a very marginal increase in boost to 23psi. The ecu is still has a ref sync issue on the dyno limiting rpm to 7100 getting some form of interferance so will check out all the wireing. But I am leaning towards it being caused by resonence from the exhaust in the dyno cell as once everthing was checked over and trimmed up a little we proceeded to take it for a few trips around the block where the and downloaded the lambda and logging from the ecu and the rpm trace is spot on. So 8500 rpm without a problem at all. Obviously not beeing able to give it full rpm on the dyno i can not tell you what the final power figure at max rpm is but i can say just from seat of the pants that it would no doubt be a little over the 600hp. I think i will leave the car in this configuration for a while as there is not to much injector left and i doubt i will need anymore power at this stage as the car seems to go reasonably well as it is. sS as soon as we get some clear weather it will be off to the track for a shake down. and then just tidy up a few loose ends with ducting etc. and still need to wire up my data logger (RUZIC engineering race logger) and change the gearbox before i have a crack at some lap times. Bear in mind that the driver will be the biggest handycap the car will have. Should have some pics of some fancy driveline bits by the end of the week.

At the end of the day any ecu is only as good as the guy that is punching in the numbers and that is fact can not be disputed. The best ecu in the hands of a shite tuner will give a poor result when compared to lets say a lower spec ecu with a really good tuner. I by no means know enough about ecu's to comment on this one is better than that one etc I personally run a motec m800 in my own car and have no intentions of changeing it as my tuner has a lot of experiance with them and that is what he prefers to use and i am happy with the results that i get. I still personally believe that the motec is the premium option in aftermarket ecu's as its reputation is based on years of high end motorsport use and has proven itself at the top level time and time again. As far as having 4 times the data logging capacity most poeple will never make full use of the logging available anyway. I am by no means taking a shot at the vipec as it does seem like excellent value for money and it is a bit rich that everything with a motec is an option that will cost you extra but they seem to be able to get away with that due to their reputaion that has been built up over years of development. My main point that does not seem to have been covered to extensivly in this thread is that no matter what ecu you choose it is only as good as the tuner and in my opinion there are a lot more capable ecu's out there than there are capable tuners.

Some of those parts look stragely familiar for some reason. Bomberman is a bit modest as to how hardcore his build is although it is primarily a street car i would be willing to wager that it will give some of the more dedicated track cars a run for their money once completed. The only thing missing is the roll cage and dry sump at any rate it will be one tuff streeter.

Just looking for an R33GTR ignition barrel. If anyone has one please pm me with a price and location would prefer local area but will be interested if from interstate as well. Cheers Daz

Hey Michael I have the exact same trailer. Excellent value for money seems good quality and tow's really well. Just as you said though I will be changing to light truck tyres for extra peice of mind. Other than the tyres i couldn't be happier with it.

Hey guys thanks for the comments. Sorry to hear about your pump/engine dramas michael I saw your car at the nissan datsun nationals and your "drifting display" and have seen it at a few time attack days seems like a good thing so should be some stiff compition for me once your dramas are all sorted. Will keep you guys informed as to when i will be getting out to the track for a shake down but will definatly be a Pauls next time attack day if not before hand. The gearbox that I am useing has the stnd gearset and I am pretty confident that it will handle the power without to much of a problem from all the research that i have done. I am not sure you a correct in stating that the R34 box is not as strong as the R33/32 box's Richard as i have had my gearbox guy pull the box down and he would definatly dispute that fact with you and from all the research that i have done it seems that it is the same box as the supra runs with a different casing obviously to accomadate the transfer case. And there are some guys in the states that are running high 8 sec 1/4 mile times with the stnd supra gearbox and i personally know of a couple of R34 GTR's that run consistant low 10 sec 1/4's with the stnd box and I would think that drag racing is going to be a whole lot harder on the box than the circuit stuff. The PPG box's are great to use on the track but they are also quite a high maintanence box if you adhere to PPG's recomendations (repalce dog rings every 2k and selector forks every 4k) and I also know of several guys that have destroyed them due to a few inherent design faults. My personal advice would be to stick with the os gearset if you are going to keep the R33/32 box or just go the whole hog and get the holinger. The problem with the OS88 sequential box is that it is designed primarily for drag racing and has no options for gearing making it not ideally suited to circuit racing. The dry sump kit I put together myself with the exception of the sump pan wich i purchased from hi octane but I am currently getting some pans fabricated myself wich should be quite a bit cheaper than what hi octane sell them for. Mainly due to having access to laser cutting equipment and a cnc punch and pressbrake so will cut down on a lot of the time involved with hand fabricating them. The pump mount, pump drive on the balancer and the sandwich plate to delete the oil filter I have had made by a good mate with a lot of engeneering equipment. I did this as being pretty much a dedicated track car i was not concerned about keeping the a/c and prefer to mount the pump where the a/c compressor usually sits rather than under the altinator wich is where the hi octane kit mounts the pump just makes thing a bit easier to get to for maintanence etc. I used a peterson 5 stage pump as the hi octane kit is also only a 4 stage pump. I paid $1850 aud for the pump when i purchased it as i bought a couple so got a bit better pricing but that was also when the aud was a lot better than it currently is you would also need to allow 800-1000 aud for tanks and breathers etc. all the lines are -12 on the scavange and pressure and -16 on the return line. The major expence is in the braided lines and fittings. If any of you guys are interested I can put together a full kit for you just send me a pm if you want any more details.

I dont think that there is any doubt that they are excellent value for money and no one is disputing that fact but that has no bearing on their value in 2 years time in the used car market.

Not wanting to burst your bubble mate but the examples quoted rehab2010 are extremely relevent. The R35 may be the most hyped car for a long time but lets not forget it also wears a nissan badge wich certainly does not have the prestege attached to it that the audi and bmw badges do hence i would think that the resale will probably be worse than that of the examples given regardless of performance etc. I would actually be thinking that resale in 2 years time will be more like 95-100k. Lets not forget that there will also be a stigma attached to them in regards to service history and the like and seeing as how all the cars data will be available to potential buyers there will be no hiding the history of the car ( unlike the M3 RS4 etc) so potential buyers will be able to see if the car has had a hard life or not and lets face it who is not going to give their R35 a hard time. Also the fact that there will be no warrenty offered by the time the car is 2 years old and it is a horrendously expensive car to maintain requireing gearbox oil changes, brake and rotor changes etc at much shorter intervals thann the examples mentioned this will limit the resale market to the true enthusiest's rather than the wealthy buisnesmen wich in my opinion will also be more likely to be taking the prestege of a badge into account. I guess we will all find out in a few years time but i think you are kidding yourself if you think that you will not see at least 30-35% depreciation over 2 years IMHO.

No doubt the spec v is a great car and will obviously be better than a base model 35 but the point i was trying to make is that i my opinion i doubt it would be worth double the price. As i am sure that you could by a base model add a few nice mods and match the performance of the spec v and still have a fair chunk of change left over. Sammy-qld the point i was making concerning nissns mark up was more to highlight the priceing for the spec v if it were to ever be sold in australia. And i do agree that the cost is mainly due to government rapeing us but as LSX-438 has pointed out the basic price that he paid was $118000.00 that still leaves a substantial mark up for nissan considering the cars basic retail price in japan is 83 000 000.00 yen Approx 110k AUD and i am sure that nissan australia would get a fairly hefty discount on this and surely they would have locked in the price they are paying when negotiating their initial order wich would have been at a much better rate than the current exchange rate, shipping is reasonably cheap as it only costs around 2k AUD for a single car so I would also assume that nissan would also be getting a better rate on the shipping and as GST and DD are left to be paid by the consumer. I would still argue that there is a hefty margin in it for them. wich i suppose is fair enough as they are in the buisness of selling cars to make a profit. Regardless of all this the R35GTR is still the performance bargain of the decade at least for it's initial purchase. now servicing is a whole other story.

Ahh fcuk just looked at the pics on boost cruising dry track I should have gone afterall

I wrote the day off as well thought it would be a bit wet and with the temp yesterday it wouldn't have given the cooling system any sort of workout. Is murphys law that the track dried out oh well what can you do. Will be really looking forward to the next track day.

I doubt very much that the spec v will ever be available in australia and if it were it will be a lot mor than $220 000.00. In japan you can buy a R35 premium model for around 8300 000.00 yen wich would work out to around $110 000.00 Aud at todays exchange rate wich nissan australia kindly stick a $40 000.00 mark up on plus on roads. To put it into perspective a spec v in japan will cost you 16000000.00 yen so lets say $220 000.00 aud now add on top of that nissans mark up + onroads lct etc and i think you would be looking at a price that would be closer to 300k if not more. While a R35GTR is excellent value for money at 150k the spec v suddenly doesnt seem like such a bargain considering the performance gap between the base premium model and the spec v.