Deano 1

Run in tune complete on my thing, these turbos are amazing - feels like my old -5 setup but with an extra 200kw and 2psi less boost. engine spec, 2.8L, 1mm O/S valves, Tomei sized inlet ports, CPC carbon plenum matched up to the big ports 6boost, 60mm turboSmart Gate Spline drive Tomei Pump Platinum race engines Block Brace Race Pace Sump R35 Coils Ross Crank Trigger Haltech 2500 9180 1.05 26psi 500kw

Gauges - aem haltech Got 3 gauges to sell. All are are brand new, box only opened for pics. AEM 60 psi boost gauge with the sensor AEM 150 psi oil pressure gauge with sensor Haltech gaugeart with the wiring loom. Everything is is brand new, never been used. You gain my loss. Will post anywhere in Australia 60psi boost gauge $350 150 oil pressure gauge $300 haltech gauge $450

I highly doubt they will be laggy, for the power they put out. Remember it is a 1000hp turbo ??

Still waiting on the fuel system AI are prettttty dam slow. Everything else is basically ready to go. Fuel system won't take me long to install. Oh and no rollers..... Jez has a hub dyno now for the big power cars, and the old dyno for all the lil baby power cars ?

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Bump, anyone know where I can get my 6 changed to a 8?

I really hope mine spins more than 550, be a fair bit off where I want to be. That speed "cap" is a pain. Owell only one way to find out ?

Soooo no Emtron?

My build been going for 14 months now, and I'm only at this stage. Mom pretty sure all decent builds just take time fella's. everything is a pain in the ass, nothing fits, nothing is in stock, everything has to be fabricated or changed in some way. ? but thats at all part of the fun

Which one did u upgrade too?

Water lines for for CPC manifold Hi all, ive got a new CPC manifold and want a hand with plumbing up everything - so it all still works as per factory. Well the oil cooler (the one on the oil filter) best way to get water over to the other side for the turbo. Where to run the lines for the heater hose etc. theres a fair bit bit to be put back and as the old mani is not going back on, I'm chasing people's experiences with after market manifolds and how they plumbed them up. Also does anyone know the best way to utilize this port on the side of the where the thermostat bolts (pic attached)

whens the sale start Full Race Geoff??

Or you block the oil squirters. The squirters are there to cool the Pistons. With e85 and a decent tune you don't need them. It is also good to get rid of them, because you arnt leaving 6 holes for oil to piss out of. When there is much more important area'a for that oil to be, like the main bearings. My new 900-1000hp engine build has the squirters removed.

wheres the best place to order one of these bad boys, should i be looking in the states or australia?

your engine builder or machinist will put a slight notch in the bottom skirt of the piston for clearance.

Ring Cam Tech, they will make you what ever you want. I just got, some 265dur 10.8mm lift cams and a dual spring package to suit. Just remember, for the street - you dont want some massive 280-290 deg cams, it will be a pig to drive.

Bump

part number is NIS191425D16 $800 + post take em

I'm building a rb28 ATM, and if I had my time again, I prob would have went a 3L, yeah there's more stuffing around. But at the end of the day, to build a strong 26, you need a good block, N1 or RRR, or as in my case, a block brace to ensure its strong. With a 3L you get a block brace and you can go billet mains, in the end it costs almost the same with the extra machining costs etc. but in saying all that, are what is big power in your words? Are will talking 800-900HP atw, like the engine I'm building. Or 600hp atw. That's the main thing you need to work out. How much power do you want? What gearbox are you going to run? If it's only 600-650hp atw just throw some rods and Pistons in a 26 block, and I nice new age turbo, and be done with it. if you are after 700-1000 than be prepared to spend 15-20k on a long motor and go the 3L

offers???

bump

Hmm, I'll give Unigroup a call and see what they got to offer.

Help with Camshaft Choice Hi Guys n Girls Ive got a new engine in the build, and my machine shop wants a set of camshafts so they can mock the engine together in the workshop to ensure all the clearances are correct before they hand it all back over. So the decision for a cam, spring, retainer package has become abit important. Anyway the setup is as follows, Spool 2.8 stoker, 86.5mm pistons factory comp 1mm oversized tomei Valves plan to run a EFR 9180 - 1,0 rear and all the other bits like ross trigger setup, 6boob twin scroll, twin 3inch exhaust, HKS 100 cooler, E85 blah blah blah. The main things are the items listed. As the car is a street car, and will be driven on the street, i dont really want 280-290 Dur cams with 12mm of lift that makes the car a complete pig, i understand the 9180 is not going to be a v8 when putting around town so we dont need to go there. Ive spoke to Camtech and Kelford and they both guide me down the mega cam path, i think to myself surely i can go somthing alil bit lighter on, specially with the 1 mm over sized valves. Ive looked into the JUN high lift low Dur cam packages, but dont want to use crappy jap springs.. 272 dur 11.35mm lift The JUN cams call for a 1.5mm offset retainer. And also have a 29mm base circle, which im guessing will call for thicker buckets as the factory base circle is 32mm. Anyway, im sure someone out there has gone though the same situation so id like to hear your thoughts and suggestions.

Bump Price Drop Pistons $900

Springs are SOLD