hermit-dragon

Ok... I'll see if I can do that this week

I honestly don't know... I bought it at Up Garage in Chiba Japan a couple years ago.it's Nismo 1.5 wayand in good condition... that's all I know

Ok... got a few parts that were originally intended for my 98 GTT... but I need the cash and prolly won't use these any time soon... For sale: Used Nismo copper mix twin plate pull type clutch. $850AUD obo needs new discs... but the rest is in good shape Used Nismo 1.5 way LSD $1000AUD bought this at Up Garage in Chiba a couple years ago and never got around to installing it. NEW Precision 1000cc injectors (set of 6 flow matched) $1000AUD Bought these originally for my R32 GTST back in 2007... bit never had the engine management to run them. Used HKS mushroom filter. $50AUD used this on my R34 for about 2 months in Hong Kong replaced with an Apex'I NEW copy Tomei FPR with liquid filled gauge. $150AUD O Never got around to getting the rail adapter to use this... I know there are alot of bad things said about these, but several of my chinese friends run them and have no problem... buy use at your own risk. Used OEM MT ecu $ offer Used OEM AT ecu $ offer All parts are in Hong Kong, buyer pays actual shipping. Pm me for pics or direct at [email protected]

it's been a few days and I've stared and ran the car several times with zero problem... I'm starting to feel like an *** for letting something as simple as an intake leak stump me for so long... but in my defense, the previous owner took the car to a shop and was told it was a bad ECU, so I was working from that trying to hunt down some electrical problem. I'm glad I did in a way tho... there were so many bad wiring hacks and whatnot that couldn't be HELPING the situation! So now I'm tentatively thinking the problem is finally solved, but time will tell. If there is no issues within a month, I think I can confidently say it's fixed. Actually, it makes a strange kind of sense now.. I replaced the leaking valve cover gaskets, and that's about when this problem got really bad. I took that hose off to remove the valve covers, it must have split more then? Well, just goes to show, the simple problems can sometimes be the hardest to track down

I thought it was supposed to be 600-700?

ok.. so I cleaned the IAC valve the other night and took it for a test tonight.. ran like a champ even when beating on the loud pedal... no even the slightest hesitation or flutter! now, the Idle set screw is fugged.. some cracker stripped it before I got the car and I could only get the idle down to about 1000 RPM, but I can live with that for now. I also noticed when I took the IAC off, the hose going to the intake was split near the intake end. I taped it up with electrical tape for now... maybe this split in the hose was my problem all along?

no sub, amp or cap.. I even yanked the aftermarket alarm and all i's components and fixed the wires it was tapped into to eliminate hat. the TT is brand new and wired correctly, and I know that's not the problem cus the car did this before the Apex'i TT was even there. the fuel pump gets full voltage even when the car refuses to start... but it's nowhere NEAR as loud as my old R32 was when the pump was priming... is this due to the R34 having a plastic tank that has that bizarre shape as opposed to the metal box of the 32? My mate has agreed to let me swap-borrow parts from his GTT to find my problem. I'm starting with the CAS as many ppl have said that is suspect. any other suggestions if the CAS turns out ok?

ok.. a little update.. hopefully it might help figure this weird problem out. I couldn't get the car started with the MT ECU tonight, and with the AT ECU, it's chugged and bogged and stalled like a bee with an itch until it finally settled down into a nice idle. I decided to let it get up to operating temp (almost half way on the gauge) and then switched back to the MT computer... lo and behold, the car fired right up and kept a nice steady idle for at least 10 minutes until I decided to shut it off. It started no problem on the MT ECU 3 more times through the night while I puttered around doing some other stuff. The point is, it was still hot from running up to temp from the first time... soo.. maybe the cold start valve? or AAC? I'm in Hong Kong, and the temp is about 27C, so I can't see it being too cold... Anyway, that was my findings for tonight. Thoughts? OH! I checked the voltage and resistance to the fuel pump with a multimeter, and that came up good, so it's not the pump. I read in the FSM that a clogged Catalytic converter might stall the engine like this... anyone think THAT might be it?

Ok, I haven't posted in a long time... anyone who read my post about "dead ECU" may remember. Now.. here's the thing... I have had this problem since I got the car, and it's driving me bat crap crazy! I now have 2 MT ECUs (thinking that was the problem originally) as well as a second AFM... Also NOT the problem. I have data scanned it with Consult as well as bringing it to a dealer.. no fault codes ever. I also have an AT ECU from the previous owner who got it from a shady shop that told him that was the problem. Initially, the car would run perfectly then suddenly just die and not start again. Switch ECUs and it would run. now it won't even do that half the time! but still.. no fault codes at all. I even replaced the engine temp sensor for good measure. I've ordered a new fuel filter just in case, because when the car dies, it almost sounds like someone switched off the ignition... Blocked fuel filter? After it dies, the car will not start at all for a while, except occasionally when switching ECUs... this leads me to believe it's NOT a fuel problem, but an electrical one. The other day I washed the car, moving it to a different bay in my car park from where I park it... started and ran fine till I went to drive it back to my spot... dead... switched to AT ECU, and drove fine. I have a funny feeling its a bad wire somewhere, but as there is literally hundreds of meters of wiring in this car, I'm reluctant to pull the harnesses out and inspect them all. I have recently installed a Apex'i electronic boost gauge, and Apex'i Full auto turbo timer and an HKS electronic boost controller (haven't hooked up the vacuum lines yet) all of which I tapped to the ignition switch for switched power. They all work fine (except the boost controller because the stepper motor is not plugged in yet) One other strange problem that I found recently, when I changed the bulbs in my left tail light, the dash lights would come on when I pressed the brake pedal! WTF?! then when I wiggled the wires to the bulb in the tail light, the dash lights stopped coming on with the brake pedal again. I will try to take a video of the problem and maybe one of you will have a clue... I am at my wit's end trying to figure out this problem.. I have never come across a car problem I couldn't figure out until now. I hope someone here can help. Thanks Mates

thanks for the replies. As for why? like I said, I want to be the one in control of when the braking happens at all time. I've had amature racing liscenes in both Canada and here in Hong Kong, and more than 10 years of on track and street drifting... I don't trust ABS or TCS or HICAS at the limits... they kick in when you LEAST want them to in that situation. I agree, ABS and traction control is great for the average driver (no offense to anyone who likes them here) but I don't panic brake when I'm behind the wheel, and I once had ABS lock up on me while going down a particularly steep mountan pass at about 90km/h sideways... I'm sure you can imagine how scary THAT would be seeing the edge of a cliff coming at you and you just lost control of your car. I find I can brake alot harder and shorter right on the limit of locking than any ABS system I've come across.

ok, I want to remove my ABS system from my 98 GTT. Now, before anyone goes off about safety and all that, I am an old school driver. I dont trust a computer to do the driving for me... if any of you have read my earlier posts about the ECU and engine problems... I'm not sure if I wouldn't rather convert my car to carbs! LOL Anyway, this is the newest car I've ever owned, and I admit that it's much more sophisticated than I'm used to. on early '90s cars and older, removing ABS is basically just a matter of yanking the components and computer and replacing the master cylinder and then pulling out the ABS light on the dash more or less. My question is this: is it still the same with the R34? or does the ABS computer talk to the ECU and affect ECU functions? I'd appreciate any constructive comments. I have better brake control than any computer I've come across (and I trust my brake modulation alot more too) and I want to save the couple of Kilos from pulling all the ABS junk. Thanks all

ok, so an update on this to hopefully get some advice... I took the car for a rip with the AT ECU, and after it got up to operating temp and playing moderately hard on the highway, it suddenly bogged out and them backfired like a cannon twice. Then I tried limping it home keeping the RPM down around 2500 and it bogged and backfired two more times. One of my buddies noticed that the Cam angle sensor is turned almost all the way anti-clockwise but it looks like the factory had it MUCH further back (marks on the bolt sliders from the bolt washers). I'm wondering if this has something to do with the problem. I did a self diagnostic with the CONSULT plug on both the AT ECU and the MT ECU. The AT only came up with code 54 (AT controller malfunction) and the MT one I let idle and revved a bit until it died and did the self diagnostic and it came up with code 55( all good). this almost leads me to believe that either A) the ECU can't tell me it's screwed, B) there's a problem with the coils and/or harness or C) the CAS is the culprit, but I don't have a timing light to get it back to the right spot. Any help on this would be a HUGE help. Cheers

Ok, this is my first post (at least in a long time...) I just bought a 1998 GTT 4 door MT a couple weeks ago and while changing my steering wheel to a Nardi with an HKB hub, suddenly the car wouldn't start. I get lots of fuel, but apparently no spark. I had an AT ECU from the previous owner. He got it to fix what his mechanic says was a bad ECU. The original MT ECU has a "re-manufactured by Nissan" sticker on it already and the AT one doesn't have anything. I swapped to the AT ECU, and the car started right up. now after taking it to get some fuel in the tank, I took it for a rip to finally get a feel for the car, and on the highway, it suddenly bogged and then backfired a couple of times as loud as a cannon! I've read that an AT ECU will run the engine fine, but the TSC and SLIP lights will stay permanently on. So any ideas what might be causing this? FIY, the car has an HKS (I think) catback and a Nismo fuel pump and that's it for any sort of performance mods. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.