Luciano

My horn sounds like absolute shit. Similar to something you'd find on one of those four wheeled electric buggys that senior citizens drive around in on footpaths... it must have been a Japanese trend in the 90s to have a piss weak sounding aftermarket horn in your vehicle. or you = fail. i'm looking for a good alternative also. When i try and give someone this big 'F*&^ OFF' raged BEEEEEEEEEEEEP for cutting me off, they dont even hear it... then as i pass all they see is me waving a fist or finger out the window.

SOLD

I've got one of him doing a solo run in the right lane from the old JMS site, runs a 9.51

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wi...tr-t235927.html

you'll probably have to get piping fabricated, as aftermarket cooler piping is to suit an aftermarket core with different end tanks to the GTR coolers

rob the bank

well done mate, congratulations!

lol if you say explosive diarreah you boss might tell you to piss off home tomorrow so noone else catches it

I'd definitely get rid of the timer Jay, it sounds like more trouble than its worth. An auto electrician having a look at the electrics wouldnt hurt either, just to get a better opinion

lol, a lot of my mates crank flashdance a fair bit, and they love it. I've never been once

The window relays are a pretty common problem, but actually not too hard to fix (providing you have soldering gear). There is a thread on fixing them in the DIY forum

Item: 5Zigen / JASMA cannon ball muffler Item Condition: Used To suit: any car Extra Info: 3" inlet, 5" tip. Has a few nicks and scratches, but still a nice & clean looking muffler. Made a great exhaust note on the R33. Contact: PM Price: $100 located in NE suburbs on car:

your onevia looks f*&^ awesome Ted!

definitely notbad Mike. U/L is a little average, but as you can see further up the page, there is worse!

same goes here, i have cable at home, u/l speeds very average i just did a test here at work;!!! notbad!

ahh k, gotchya! thanks Ryan

hey guys, i just had my old shitty cat convertor removed (same cat back from when my 33 was complied) and replaced with a second hand 3 incher that i picked up off a forum member. When we were removing the old one, we noticed that the sensor wasnt even screwed into the cat and was tucked away above the heat shield, and the housing for the sensor was welded shut... the car ran pretty good however... didnt miss a beat, making nice power. So after getting the new bigger cat installed, we welded the sensor hole shut, as the last cat had. Anybody else have this? Is it a disadvantage not having that sensor in (supposedly doing its job)?

hey Adz, why dont you try giving Dzign FX a call - that company that sponsor Miss-R34s car company profile says: they should be able to sort ya out

same goes here, i achieved quite a boost increase after installing FMIC. Around 12psi. no aftermarket boost controller, and what appears to be the standard ECU. Same other mods that IZZMO mentioned - pod, turbo back exhaust. She's running pretty nice. Next thing i'll be adding is better coil packs - my oem ones are pretty fried.

Thats terrible mate, very sorry to hear! I cant believe the nerve of these punks out there, putting bins and shit out onto the roads for thrills.

HQ is shit. pubs, bars, and small clubs ftw!

looks bloody tough. i've never seen that one in the flesh

lol, congratulations Reuben

in SA its not illegal to remove them, its only mandatory to be able to access the holes that the restraints bolt in to my parcel shelf sat over the top of the two restraint bolting points - must be an aftermarket/forge - as i have a strut brace above parcel shelf. When i bought the car through the pits for a defect inspection they didnt clear it because the restraint points werent accessible. All i did was open the boot, drilled through both the holes into the parcel shelf, vaccumed the dust and placed two little caps > car passed

fantastic. glad i installed one that returns through the standard piping