Brazen

Found the Abflug online shop http://www.ab-flug.co.jp/indexf.htm and noticed as well as kits they have Stagea specific parts from PentRoof... one of which I think I know: = PentRoof Bilstein coilovers!! $3650 plus cost of getting em here!! But what exactly are these goodies Im looking at???? - please tell me they're not only for 260RS - they say WGNC34!!: 1. = ? = ~73,000 yen ($900) 2. = ? = ~64,000 yen ($800) 3. = ? = ~137,000 yen ($1700) 4. = ? = ~29,000 yen ($370) 5. = ? = ~13,000 yen ($170) And I like this Ablug Stagea bonnet vent to get ambient air to your pod (scoops are allowed in WA ) 6. = Bonnet vent = 9240 yen = ~$110 Do I feel some group-buys coming up??? Adam

I think with some movements as SK said, and trialling taking temp sensor readings from different applications of the thermal foam you'll find a good path to run your aluminium end-product. But as for getting more ambient air into the sectioned off pod... Here's another option... dunno if its allowed in QLD - I know some states dont allow cutting into the bonnet - but WA does so check QLD rules and throw in the Abflug Stagea specific vent that is meant exactly for Pod application... And at only 9,240yen (about $100) I'll be ordering mine soon http://www.ab-flug.co.jp/indexf.htm The WA rules will let me do this to get direct ambient air to my intake (woohoo) - this is from the WA rules... Oh and check all the nice PentRoof parts for Stageas on that site too... PentRoof WGNC34 Bilstein coilovers!!! :drool: Only $3650

Yep - but only as wide as the placard also says - is it 8.5" on the placard?? I am actually pretty sure the tyre width is only recommended... you are bound by the ADRs for the width rim shown on your placard... if your placard says 8" wide rims the ADRs will allow only 245s - so your entire placard is wrong for WA laws - see what i mean by how stupid the system is! ... but if the palcard allows 8.5 or 9" then u can go the 255s.... BUT according to the rules you MUST have the same profile tyres back and front (unless specified to have different front/rear combos on your placard - usually only for GTRs/300zx/350Z that came with factory option of diff front rear widths)... so ud need to have 255s on the front as well! Heres the approved tyre fitments allowed for 18" rims... TYRE SIZE... APPROVED RIM SIZES(inches) 235/40R18... 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5 245/40R18... 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5 255/40R18... 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10 265/40R18... 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5 225/35R18... 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9 235/35R18... 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5 245/35R18... 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5 255/35R18... 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10 265/35R18... 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5

Hmm interesting - never been to the WA DPI site before - we must be a lot more relaxed than eastern states guys on some rules. The one that really jumped out at me was how low our cars can theoretically be to the ground!... For exhausts: And for the body kit / lowest part of body its the same: So for 18x7" rims allowed under the "without approval list" on a skyline (or 19's on a GTR or 350Z etc) with low profile tyres that theoretically lets us get the car WAY down low - not the 10cm Ive heard thrown around about the eastern states min clearance and referred to here in the West. Even better if you are a GTR owner with 18" specced on your tyre placard you can throw on fat 20" rims with about 3cm of rubber - and have your kit and/or exhaust slung as low as 3.1cm Maybe loads of you already know this stuff - so sorry - but interesting for me and maybe anyone else that hasnt seen the rules. Another one people commonly refer to is to a need to get an "Engineering Certificate" for any mods you do for them to be 100% legal - but in WA it is also wrong - DPI have a list of modifications that you can be down WITHOUT approval, and then a simple "apply before you do it" form to fill out for any other mods that gives you an approval certificate to flash to the cops - as long as you apply before you mod. Might be less hassle than I thought doing mods. The worst deal though is for those of us without GTRs - that have tyre placards at a max reommended width of 7" rims. The legal maximum rim WIDTH in WA is 7" - unless you're car is tyre placarded as having came fitted with wider rims (eg GTR) - but even then u cant go any wider again than factory. That is pretty ridiculous coz they allow you to go up 2 sizes in diamater (eg 16" stock to 18" aftermarket) - but no wider in width - and i aint even heard of a 18" rim thats only 7" wide. However - of course you probably wont ever get defected for that one coz its hard to tell the rim width if they are stamped on the inside coz the width of the tyres is all they can see with a visual inspection. BUT on that note - keep your 18" tyres no wider than 245s - coz that is the widest legally allowed on a 7" rim - so any wider eg 265s on the rear and its easy to tell for a cop = reads the tyre and checks your tyre placard - so a GTST would get a canary coz the cop can see u are allowed only a 7" rim on your placard and read 265 or 255 on the tyre which is illegal to fit to a 7"... weird system. More details for anyone else in WA who's never checked it out... http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/licensing/myvehic...s/approval.html is a bugger though - cant go wider than 7" unless the stock specs (tyre placard) allows it.

Ahh well - looks like you'll have to sacrifice your R34 for a few weeks to get it sorted

Yeah - but whatever mods you have - at the point you install a FMIC you will get an increase in lag over what u had before the FMIC... did u have a FMIC before and just swapped to a Blitz system - or go from stock sidemount to FMIC?

Umm I am definitely no expert... but it just sounds like the bit of extra lag you get from fitting a FMIC and all that piping compared to the stockie???? Normal I thought - hence why u normally combine the FMIC with mods like a full turbo back 3" exhaust and a bit of extra boost etc to balance out the lag... the FMIC istself doesnt do much for performance - but creates a cooler environment to allow you to fit more mods and up the boost with less risk Personally I wouldnt do a FMIC if you werent modding up - but then again thats just base on other reading in here - so i could have it completely wrong

Hey Mcnamg I actually dug up this old thread to post some frustrating new info I found ou - and coincidently it is also exactly related to your last posted question that no-one ever replied to! Just confirmed with DPI here in Perth about approved rim sizes and got an aweful shock which means my current 18x8s are defective. Dunno about in other states, but in WA this is the technical speil that if it got down to it they could defect you on: So... Stagea stock max width as per tyre placard is 7JJ... 7 inches... which mean NOTHING wider than 7" can legally be fitted. The ridiculous thing is point "k"... you can go up "plus two" sizes (max 18" as per stagea stock max of 16") - but you still have to adhere to points a->j (excluding f) which mean they only approve 18 x 7 rims... joke - anyone know a rim thats made to 18x7 ???? They are mostly min 8" for 18s - and Ive found a few 18x17.5, but no 18x7s so far. The theres the "all tyres and rims fitted to the vehicle are of the same size and profile "... so not allowed to have different width rims front and rear, or different width tyres front and rear... so no wider tyres on the back allowed! What a load of crap... phoned Bob Jane and enquired - along the lines "yeah the govt has no idea - allowing to go up two sizes to 18" but no wider than 7" - go figure. We basically say unless you buy a rim with the width stamped on the outside - how can they tell because visually on inspection they only see the TYRE width - not the rim width" So their advice was to not fit tyres to 18s wider than allowed on 7" rims by the ADR rules. Now just gotta find out what that widest width would be?? Stupid regulators

Unfortunately in WA they apply the plus 1 plus 2 rule to diametre not width - which cant go wider than 7" unless the tyre placard says stock widths are wider than that (eg GTRs)... I'm gonna dig up the old wheel thread and post a longer detail of it there coz its related to the last reply there in January... so we'll have two similar threads - SK u got admin to close 1 of em?... Here's a cut and paste of what i put in that one: ------------------------------------- Hey Mcnamg I actually dug up this old thread to post some frustrating new info I found ou - and coincidently it is also exactly related to your last posted question that no-one ever replied to! Just confirmed with DPI here in Perth about approved rim sizes and got an aweful shock which means my current 18x8s are defective. Dunno about in other states, but in WA this is the technical speil that if it got down to it they could defect you on: So... Stagea stock max width as per tyre placard is 7JJ... 7 inches... which mean NOTHING wider than 7" can legally be fitted. The ridiculous thing is point "k"... you can go up "plus two" sizes (max 18" as per stagea stock max of 16") - but you still have to adhere to points a->j (excluding f) which mean they only approve 18 x 7 rims... joke - anyone know a rim thats made to 18x7 ???? They are mostly min 8" for 18s - and Ive found a few 18x17.5, but no 18x7s so far. The theres the "all tyres and rims fitted to the vehicle are of the same size and profile "... so not allowed to have different width rims front and rear, or different width tyres front and rear... so no wider tyres on the back allowed! What a load of crap... phoned Bob Jane and enquired - along the lines "yeah the govt has no idea - allowing to go up two sizes to 18" but no wider than 7" - go figure. We basically say unless you buy a rim with the width stamped on the outside - how can they tell because visually on inspection they only see the TYRE width - not the rim width" So their advice was to not fit tyres to 18s wider than allowed on 7" rims by the ADR rules. Now just gotta find out what that widest width would be?? Stupid regulators

Thanks Also just found out for WA - dunno about other States - that for cars that had stock rims 7" wide or less - it is illegal to have any aftermarket rim wider than 7" fitted. If your car comes standard with rims wider than 7" (eg GTRs) you cannot go any wider than that factory width. So yeah - guess my 18s are defectable

I just transferred qld plates to wa a cpl months ago on the car i bought... the first reply above ^^^ has it right... but just in case the car wasnt already in your name (ie. u bought it from someone and it has tassie plates) then a couple of extra bits of info... as well as all the $ mentioned above you will also need to pay the Stamp Duty before they'll give you new plates. Also, they dont tell you this and most people end up throwing away the receipt... but you'll also be entitled to a refund from Tassie Licensing of the proportion of Rego left on the Tassie rego. When you hand in your tassie plates you'll get a receipt for them, and the refund will be from that date forward - you need to fill out some forms from Tassie Licensing and attach the receipt and post it off. As for mods etc - what I did was book an inspection but a few days before went to the inspection centre and just walked in and spoke to the inspector for a couple of mins inbetween inspections. I just said "Hi, getting my plates changed over and doing a first registration in WA inspection on Thursday. It has some mods that were OK in tassie and just wanted to quickly ask what I'll need to take off. Are dash mount gauges etc ok, and what about....." Easy way to avoid them not passing you and paying another fee and re-booking again.

Hey Bass - these sound good Ill give you $50 for one BAHAHA - just kidding - a light hearted reference to your thread regarding people making offers pissing u off :wassup: Anyways - put me down for an R34 for my Neo6 Stagea if they're gonna be around the same $100 mark as the R33's... but lol where's your priorities - doin R33 model before your own R34 ones!? Cheers mate Adam

More often u change the oil the better - 5000km definitely the way to go - and dont skimp on the brand of oil. Fuel also aint worth the risk - even for a stockie throw in the the 98RON fuel and have peace of mind... but especially if you take it away from stock with a few mods :wassup: ps. another perth Stag... see u on a cruise anytime soon?

Blitz LM Intercooler Kit WGNC34 Part number 12331 $1093 + delivery from Nengun http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/31

Once again - immensely helpful. That seems to hit my target kilowatts of 210 - 220 right on the money... and I suppose if I get any hassles when I finally get around to hi-flowing the turbo I can look at a FMIC then - but for now the ARC cooler brand new for $600 delivered to WA seems to be the deal - coz there's no extra expense (no piping and can fit myself) - and the spare change over a FMIC will pay for some of the other mods to actually edge towards those kW... savings will probably go on split dump/front pipe, hiflow cat and the R34 daughterboard groupbuy (if they ever get around to it). Thanks SK!

Yeah - congrats on the new pad guys! Was in there on Friday for a sticky-beak and it looks awesome - more hoists, seperate engine building room, dyno room, show room and office and still room to spare - much nicer than the old spot! Although my fav part was the BNR34 parked inside! :drool: See you in there soon to fit my HKS EVC-5 :wassup: Adam

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Yeah a few more details would help... rim width front/rear; tyre size front/rear; offset. ?????

So we are waiting on the actual makers of the board? I suppose this wait is unknown?? Grrrr this is very frustrating... I'll keep checking back for that new thread with everything ready to go Ed hehe Thanks fellas working on this - I'm sure this'll all pay off soon with an awesome group buy... CANT WAIT though lol!!

Good thread... been looking at the LM Intercooler kit for my Stagea and wondered how the pipework went and what cutting etc is required. Looking at your install - Id say you've found an interesting alternative install height than intended by Blitz - good in that it doesnt mean cutting the front bar, but less good I guess because it protrudes below the front bar. Its definitely meant to be a few inches higher - the bolt holes you used for the piping mounts were wrong I think... the one you attached goes on the next hole up, and the one you didnt bolt on goes on that one instead... Thatd give the correct height to not have the return piping lower than the front bar. But I think with the Stagea LM intercooler kit I wont even have either hassle - no front bar cutting and for some reason the piping on the Stagea Blitz kit is different and returns back behind the radiator - this is a pic of the Blitz kit installed in a Stagea: Unfortunately the different/extra piping in this Blitz kit also gives it an extra $200 on the Nengun price tag over the price of the skyline equivalent kits

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Enjoy reading your projects SK... you not only help with all this factual/opinion stuff... you express it in a way that makes someone like me with no previous know-how turn into someone now reading and reading and tinkering and becoming really excited about my car and what I can do to it... you should be an author or something! Anyway - enough of the butter-up... looking at your first post here I cant work out how to calculate the core's airflow... you concluded a 23% (i think) increase in flow for the GTT cooler core over the Stagea stockie and cant work out how to do the same calculations on cores I'm looking at - well one particular core. As you've probably picked up from this and other threads I'm pretty close to finalising my decision on intercooler, and I think it'll be a choice between the Blitz front-mount for around $1400, or the ARC sidemount I mentioned before for maybe $700. * How do I work out the improvement in flow of the ARC unit over my R34gtt stockie? The ARC specs are 250x220x110. Everybody keeps telling me "FRONT MOUNT FRONT MOUNT"... but just thinking - if the flow numbers are up enough with the ARC unit - theres alot more I could do with the $700 less it costs than the Blitz FMIC. Cheers (AGAIN) SK

Woohoo - thanks Burns and SK... finally know where that dam piping goes ... doesnt go directly back along the bottom of the core like others - but from your pics heads backwards and comes along behind the core...CHEERS !! Hey Burns - so this looks like it could be a relatively easy Do It Yourselfer??? Thanks guys - most helpful! :headspin:

Hey SK or anyone else of course lol - one last piping question... Ive spent 2 days searching as you suggested, which has turned up loads of extra info - but not found out the exact answer I am looking for about these Blitz kits. Know anything about where these Blitz kits (made specifically for the Neo6 set-up in the stags, and the equivalent kit for the R34GTT) run their pipework? Has any1 ever seen one or a pic of one hooked up to an R34 GTT?. I think it joins up to the stock pipework, but cant be sure... if it doesn then if it doesnt return UNDER the cooler - where does it go - behind? Does that still give a 180 deg bend??. But yeah - I cant work out exactly where it'll run... up and behind radiator or all up the passenger side existing pipes etc. I am only heading towards this kit because the enquiries i've made with workshops over here about custom piping would mean cutting into the plastic Neo6 engine cover, fan baldes, removing stock air-box etc. If the Blitz kit works around everything in the engine bay without doing a straight 180 deg bend out of the FMIC outlet then I might just go with that...