Brazen

U can get manuals in normal Stageas Series 2 (1998 onwards) - just will pay a few thousand more than auto - and Ive found none yet in Oz, so might have to ask a yard to find u one or go through a broker like geoff risbey from prestigemotorsport to find one in japan for you. A Tiptronic series 2 is other option (no normal auto was ever done in series 2 stageas) and these are available now. But yeah otherwise conversion, and some of the fellas here would know about that probably but not me sorry. Adam

Hence why I said "if you can afford it"... if you have the $$ - then always advisable to get latest model,lowest kms + highest specs your money can buy. Everyones purchase motivations are different - I aint gonna be engine modding mine that much - and very unlikely to go a bodykit - so for me it is the extra stock power, newer engine and its stock tuning/mapping capability, better stock look, better resale (as u said - series 1 ALREADY dropping to $16,000 while s2 is being quickly realised as a way to get a R34 Neo engine and 4WD for $5000 less than an R34 skyline RWD). No way id go series 1 the way prices dropping unless u cant afford a series 2 - so just my opinion - go the series 2. Its like someone saying buy a stock commodore and whack heaps of mods on it rather than buy an SS... good luck with the resale comparison!

Thanksfor thule numbers! Can any1 confirm that Series 1 and Series 2 roof rails are exactly the same???

If you can afford it get a Series 2... Neo6 engine and tiptronic auto and much nicer facelift. I have test driven a couple of both types and the ride and cornering of the Series 2 is supremely better than the Series1 - apparently they really tightened it up with the extra 30 or whatever stock kW from the Neo engine and introduction of manuals and tiptronic options. I took at right turn at a T-intersection on a test drive at just over 60km an hour and got hardly any body roll - justglued the whole way through the corner. Go the Series2!

Yeah mate as the others said that is way too much - I am getting my 1998 Stagea with the Neo6 R34 engine (205kW from factory) and tiptronic auto (steering wheel controls) for $28,000, negotiated before they gave me a dam good price on my trade in as well. 2000 models are just starting to come through for low $30k's as well. Prices over here for a 96 model with that low kms is about $24,000. Oh and was speaking to a couple of RAWS who said they will be looking at the first 2001 35 model Stageas (current shape) in about 18 months or so - so might be some nice trade-in possibilities for those of yas looking to have owned your Stageas for a couple of years by then and wanting an update!

Thanks Arkon and Tang0... good info... Ive been mulling it over heaps, and even phoned some tune shops etc today and I think I will go for the 4WD 1998... it is the best deal I can find at the moment by far in a Series 2 Stagea with the Neo6 - so should all be good - cant wait for all the paper-work to be finished with and to get the car in my driveway! Cheers for taking the time to respond! Adam PS The series 2 Stagea 26dett conversion shouldnt have probs with auto gearbox coz the spec2 has the tiptronic auto same as the R34 skylines (not the standard auto of the series 1 stageas). An couple of stagea owners already converting the footbrack to handbrakes - so should be ok - but thats years away anyway when Ive had my fun with the Neo

Just phoned a couple of the bigger import wheel and tyre companies that do skyline fittings for a straight plain english answer and all concurred with the info i found above that those wheel manufacturers had posted... TO AVOID WEAR AND DAMAGE TO SUSPENSION/JOINTS/ETC STAY WITHIN 7mm ABSOLUTE MAX VARIATION (6mm and under better)... so assuming you guys are right and the stock 16" rim offset is +33 (does it say on the rims - can anyone double check?)... that means BETWEEN +26 and +40... and the LESS positive (towards +26) the wider out the wheel will sit; the MORE positive (towards +40) the further in the wheel will sit from the guard. So if you are running narrower rims (eg 17x7s) but want the look to be wider out near the guard - get your 17x7s with a lower offset (+26). They said that 8" to 8.5" wide rims SHOULD fit easily within that offset range, but with 18x9s you can get them in but its starts to get more and more precise as to what offset you need as to whether they need to move more positive (away from gaurd) or less positive (out toward the gaurd) to avoid either inside or guard rubbing depending which side there's more room. Which is why itd be nice to know exactly what offset your 18x9s are Gary so we know for sure what offset doesnt rub!?? They also confirmed that they advise NOT to fit different width rims front and back on 4WD Atezza system as the system will misinterpret that slight difference in traction (however on this point id still like some more opinions from tuning specialists).

Oh and got some more input in favour of the 4WD - IF by any chance several years down the track I want to do a 26DETT conversion... drop straight in with 4WD atezza - but dam sight harder to do with a RWD... hmmm really starting to lean towards the 1998 4WD... but still tell me if theres other factors I am missing!!!

Hmmm thanks Arkon... The occasional bit of "fun" would be nice... but was told i can shift the 4WD to RWD by simply plugging and unplugging a fuse or more reliably getting a new computer to make it a programmable torque switch for the occasional bit of rear wheel fun ... although carrying 150kg more weight - but then again maybe weight could be offset by $1500 extra performance mods with the savings on the 4WD sale price... Plus with the Atezza 4WD i have a much easier option IF like years down the track I went to drop in a RB26DETT .... argghh brain strain!! ...Thanks Arkon - others want to help me out a bit too please

Thanks Tigerleo ... Hmm yeah ur right - it is a lot of what makes the difference to me too... Im obviously buying a stagea and not an R34 Skyline for some family/ safety/ practicality issues... so makes sense to stay with 4WD but I dunno - resale on 2000 model?? hmm. For most uses RWD only would be fine wouldnt it (just rain etc) - still TRC and ABS... plus would have more off the line with 170-odd less kgs seeings I aint going to mod heaps maybe that would be good for a bit ofextra GO... aargh... more input please!! Ohh - and are u dead set serious about being able to get RWD by pulling a fuse?? So if I want a bit of fun when its just me out and about with no kids I could pull a fuse and get the torque shift etc to get the rears spinning?????? Then plug it back in again???? Edit - phoned tune shop here and said while possible not recommended - better to get a new computer to program a changeable set-up for RWD only torque...

OK - question about towbars and going over the pits for vehicles first rego since compliance... Buying a Stagea in QLD - so be nice before its transported to get that tow-bar from Alan Huish at Huish Fabrications fitted... however - when I go for its inspection over the pits here in WA for first rego (not got QLD rego) - are they gonna be concerned about the towbar???

Hi guys - new here - lookin to buy my first RB25DET, but a family man so going for a series2 Neo6 tiptronic Stagea.... a bit of a car noob,and I posted the following request for advice in the Stagea section but hoping some Skyline owners can help me with the pros and cons of 4WD vs RWD... -------- Just about to finalise stuff for buying my 1998 Stagea... but just seen advertised today 2 newly complied 2000 year Stageas - but they are RWD (2000 year ones starting to come through yay)... Now I am fairly lost when it comes to cars - so would love your thoughts on pros and cons, and an opinion on what ud buy if u were me out of the following choices... ALL under 50,000kms and pristine condition... 1. 1998 Stagea 4WD stock standard 2. 2000 Stagea RWD with 18inch Nissan 5-spoke 350Z rims and only 15,000kms... EXTRA $4000 purchase price probably over 1998 one 3. 2000 Stagea RWD stock standard with factory electric leather seats/woodgrain etc ... prob extra $4000 over the 1998 I can obviously see the differences not related to RWD / 4WD ... eg for the price of Option 1 + $3000 for a good set of rims/tyres/lowering I could just buy the newer one with 350Z rims already there, or the electric leather seats one and wait a year to afford rims (and always be a year behind on affording other mods)... so thats more a personal choice (but would still love to know your preference) - but I am most wanting input on the 4WD vs RWD and year of manufacture/kms pros and cons... Feedback over weekend before its too late on the current deal Iam doing on the 1998 would be MUCH appreciated... what are the pros and cons u can come up with 4 me to mull over - weight / performance / parts & servicing / safety / future resale / etc etc????? My intended applications are for a moderately modded engine daily city driver - kids in the back - with the (very) occasional towing of a small box trailer or MAYBE (not a decisive factor) a small boat in and out of boat ramps and of course SAU cruises! Thanks!! Adam

Hi guys - thanks for being so helpful so far! Just about to finalise stuff for buying my new Stagea... but just seen advertised today 2 newly complied 2000 year Stageas - but they are RWD (2000 year ones starting to come through yay)... Now as Ive said before I am fairly lost when it comes to cars - so would love your thoughts on pros and cons, and an opinion on what ud buy if u were me out of the following choices... ALL under 50,000kms and pristine condition... 1. 1998 Stagea 4WD stock standard 2. 2000 Stagea RWD with 18inch Nissan 5-spoke 350Z rims and only 15,000kms... EXTRA $4000 purchase price probably over 1998 one 3. 2000 Stagea RWD stock standard with factory electric leather seats/woodgrain etc ... prob extra $4000 over the 1998 I can obviously see the differences not related to RWD / 4WD ... for the price of Option 1 + $3000 for a good set of rims/tyres/lowering I could just buy the newer one with 350Z rims, or the electric leather seats one and wait a year to afford rims (and always be a year behind on affording other mods)... so thats more a personal choice (but would still love to know your preference) - but I am most wanting input on the 4WD vs RWD and year of manufacture pros and cons... Feedback over weekend before its too late on the current deal would be MUCH appreciated... what are the pros and cons u can come up with 4 me to mull over - weight / performance / parts & servicing / safety / future resale / etc etc????? My intended applications are for moderately modded engine daily city driver - kids in the back - with the (very) occasional towing of a small box trailer or MAYBE (not a decisive factor) a small boat in and out of boat ramps and of course SAU cruises! Thanks!! Adam

Hi guys New in these forums - a few posts in the Stagea section... about to (hopefully) take delivery of my Neo6 "family wagon" in a few weeks I am buying mine from an eastern states import yard - never been registered (newly complied) - so will come off the transporter at my door - then off to the pits for inspection... anyone know if this first time registration will be any different to a transfer from another state that uve said in this thread not to worry too much about??? Its important coz I have the option of getting some parts (rims, lowering, tow-bar) fitted at the yard before it comes over - but wont do the mods til after rego if anyone knows it will be under a closer or different type of inspection coz its the first time???? Thanks Adam PS Also thining of getting a custom towball fitted in QLD - would the pits guys worry about it if it looked done right? Or do they need load-rating stickers etc on them legally?

Thanks guys Gary you run 18x9s up front as well? What offset are those rims mate - LOVE to know so I can look for that offset???? (as long as they are within +27 to +39) I have been trying to research this offset shite all day and think Ive finally worked it out... There are lots of car owners out there that are able to FIT just about anything... but the common conclusion by wheel people (found some posts by aussie rim manufacturersand others) is that you should wherever possible stick within about 6mm of stock rim offset either way as that is the general range within which the suspension structure and everything is manufactured as being able to balance and run properly. Outside of that you really start to experience unusual and uneven loading and wear on joints, suspension, etc etc because too great a proportion of the rim width and weight is outside of the intended line and all the angles and suspension tuning and design is put out. This is in line with the previous posts in this thread that had offsets between that range from the stock offset of +33 (+27 to +39). Manufacturers or wheel manfacurers recommend the varying offsets when there is more room on either the inside or outside of the rim of a particular car make when fitting wider rims (and also why spacrs are used sometimes when people score a cheap wide rim that has an incorrect offset rubbing in the INSIDE structure or suspension but theyhaveroom on the outside - the spaer push the rim away from inside). So yeah the other guy from SWAT running +45 offset is either happy risking added wear/damage, or has had his entire suspension and joints etc modded to deal with the new load shift. So while you might be able to fit 17x7 +16s, or 18x9 +45s on the car - be ready for possibly weird handling and unusual wear and damage. Thats basically what I gathered from an entire days reading!! So while it would have been nice to whack on the second hand Volk F-Zero 18x9+45s that I found on there - Id be compromising the car (and possible legality) by doing so But then again its late - and I could have comprehended it all wrong :Oops:

OK - found the right thread to post my wheel question - thanks for patience while i find my feet in these forums... My question - is there any offset that will allow 18x9s to fit at the front of Stagea RS Four without rolling guards?? I dunno much about offsets - but found some nice rims 18x9 +45offset 5x114.3... any of u fellas in the know able to confirm if any chance with 18x9s at front on Stageas?? Thanks, Adam

Good info - thanks Glenn! And just to confirm though - only pods make that sucking sound - not panel filters?

Thanks fellas - will look into the legal stuff myself in WA (unless a few of the WA guys in here can help me out)...but about one of the questions (found the thread with rim offsets etc)... Are HKS one of the noisier brand exhausts going around or quite reasonable with the resonator in? Thanks!

Thanks SK Well if not illegal - maybe I am meaning what stuff I am NOT going to be able to get over the pits and an engineers sign-off on to show the cops and insurance company??! What things are even outside those bounds maybe is what I mean? What is max rim width/size I should stay under to be ok? What little mods should i not do coz they are insurance voiders (versus ones that are ok if declared) etc etc

Hmm Ive been reading a lot of different opinions throughout the various skyline forums about POD vs HKS panel filter kit... Again being the mod noob - more questions sorry Could someone please tell me best option if I am only aiming for decent (not strip racing) performance improvement... Ive heard panel filter kit is around $100... whats the price difference for everything for a good pod set-up sealed off? whats involved in sealing off from engine bay and will it be legal? Whats the diff between just a pod VS a power air filter thingo - and are they the ones that produce the nice acceleration sucking sound that turns heads (not BOV - i know that sound and dont like it). And then again whats a cold-intake kit-different again??? If price difference is not unreasonable, and power thingo does do that sweet sound and up the performance,then I am envisaging a Abflug bonnet vent feeding air to a power pod thingo set-up (if legal) - but I obviously need more info on seeings i dont even know the terminology or difference!!! Please explain

Thanks for all this help guys... 2 follow up questions ifyou will indulge me please ... 1. Has anyone heard an HKS hi power 409 exhaust doing its thing? Is that likely to be a legal noise?? It has a resonator plug thing to whack in if need be... want to keep it legal 2. Widest rims anyone has got under their front gaurd?... found a good deal on here for a set of Kakimoto 18"x9.5" rims Seller says defintely dont fit GTS-T - but dofit GTR - does same go for Stageas - 9.5" too wide at the front?? 3. What else is "Illegal" - things like bleed valves and bonnet vents and powerFcs... all greek to me - so please someone do a quick list for me of things i shouldnt do if I want ot be 100% legal ...

Hi - new to these forums - but "as the topic says" ??? What exactly are you selling ... sunshine? ppl (people)? please elaborate for a newbie what this all means... Thanks

Causeway Auto Wholesale in Perth has one with 90,000kms on it - the one I am looking at Ill let u know about if i dont end up going ahead with purchase If I do get it and you are off-loading good value goodies let me know by PM!

Ahhh I see - plastic and crappy ... wont bother then - I am thinking with my budget may just stick with stock body with maybe the Abflug bonnet air vent/scoop at 11,000 yen... hmmm Will check out the guys in Malaga - thanks Brad... and will PM you bout the ones you dont recommend... cheers. As a side note bout exhausts - found in-stock in Perth 1 x new Stagea specific cat back HKS Hi-Power 409 Exhaust WGNC34 for $700 (not fitted) - I dont know anything bout exhaust brands and prices - does this sound an alright price and exhaust?? Really enjoying this forum - very active for just a few Stagea owners!

They have Japanese characters in the address line - so make sure your PC has Jap character readability enabled... will try and work out another way to link them or they can be clicked to from the SWAT site i linked in the other thread