boston

i think you will find that nylon is 10 times harder than polyurethane.. so i would not reccomend them..

that would chop out the outside of the tyres.. not the inside

there are allot of factors.. mark is running with a newer aero package, which has proven to not be as good as the older one.. his team mate flat out refused to run with it but mark is doing the right thing trying to develop the car long term.. the team is not as strong as it has been in the past and they are having problems keeping bmw on side.. has to have an effect on everyone at the team.. mark has never flat out dominated in any class of racing.. from karts to F1 he has always been up the front but you wouldnt put him in the same class as senna, prost or ms my $0.02

the next one will be: my friend of a friends cousins brothers somthing or other has an external waistgate on his NA S13 and reccons its really good should i get one fitted?

Sounds like your castor is uneven left to right.. if you are running more castor on the right side than the left the car will have a tendancy to pull to the left.. but it will turn in a little better to the right.. hope you got adjustable castor bushes.. all that needs to be done is wind a little more onto the left one.. or if its maxed out on the left you might take some off of the right.. there is more to it than this but in a nutshell this is it hope this helps

i think that they should have put a bit more thought into it.. consider this.. i know 2 people who have the same type of car.. one of them would stop after using 52L in the tank, the other after only 47L. Reason: the fuel pickup was mounted slightly differant.. from the factory.. the fact that they pumped out the tank completely tells me that the test was not well done.. it would have been better to drain the tanks completely, add a little fuel and drive the cars around till they stop.. this would be the true empty point of the car.. there may still be some fuel in the tank but the pickup wont get it.. then with both cars at this point conduct the rest of the test as they did.. my $0.02

by the looks of it your car does not have a MAF sensor either.. you running aftermarket ecu?

to rob82 you are 50% correct in your statement.. the car does not tune the afr in open loop but it does muck around with the timing a little.. ie. if the car is detonating it will pull timing a little.. thats why the cars go that little bit harder after you have had the battery disconected for a bit to clear all of the long term trims.. also it would be fair to say that if you were getting the car dyno tuned you have a MAF modifier on the car.. all skylines run very ritch up high in the rpm and a bit can be gained by leaning it off.. just my $0.02

The hardest part is to get the pump back in correctly because the tank is very deep.. i myself am putting my pump back in today.. will try to keep you posted with photos and more details..

It is not very hard.. for a mechanic but then again it would be near impossible to teach my sister to do it... in an r33 gts the fuel pump is situated in the boot to the right of where your battery is.. under a grey cover that is located by 4 screws.. you have to undo three fuel lines and 2 electical connecters.. then you have to un screw a big plastic nut in order to get the pump out of the tank....

rb25de r33 auto.. spank silvias on a daily basis.. can level peg it with an ef xr6 falcon (manual) off the lights.. cos first gear is really short with the 5 speed auto so it gets off the line reasonable

as far as na motors go the s2000 honda is about as good as you can get and that only makes a bit over 180kw at the fly.. give it up never going to happen.. you need cubes or forced induction..

If you do not want attention from the police stick away from the angled cannon style.. i had on and got pulled over weeky.. and the cannons always sound droany.. i got sick of mine and changed it for a 2 1/2 with twin tips.. looks closer to stock and sounds better.. i agree with SRW-1 that you need a muffler half way down the car (an offset one with a centre chamber helps the droanyness even more).. stick away from cheap fiberglass packed mufflers here.. they melk the internals of them and then they rattle when you sit at the lights.. very annoying..

there are 2 parts to the set.. the uppers which have a slot cut in them and the lowers (smaller without the slot) you need to do them in sets.. ie. both front or both back ones. so for example both front ones. undo the nut all the way on one side and then loosen the nut on the other side.. this will allow your sub frame to drop at the front. slide the slotted one in.. flat side up.. then the lower one goes in the bottom.. tighten the nut on the other side first to raise the cradle up.. yes that bit of rubber you mentioned does seem to get in the way but it is desighned to wedge into the spacer.. if you need any photos i can post them tomorrow

step 1: hook up a SAFC or similar, i am not running on of these but i heard they are good. the standard ecu runs very lean down low at wot afr 15.4:1 on mine and works its way to about 11.1:1 at close to redline.. so gains can be made everywhere by aiming fore somewhere around the 13.5:1 mark step 2: if you are feeling a bit shonky wind more timing into it by rotating your sensor on the front of your cam cover. i did so using a timing light. gave it an extra 5 deg. worked a charm.