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ITS A COMMON FAULT , THERE IS A TINY PIN THAT MIGRATES OUT OF THE ODOMETER ASSY, VERY HARD TO GET TO WITHOUT STUFFING THE SPEEDO, BEST TO GET A INSTRUMENT TECH TO FIX IT , TAKE IT OUT OF THE DASH & GIVE IT TO THE TECH TO FIX , COST AROUND $100. TRY RICHMOND-TWEED INSTRUMENTS, THEY DO MAIL IN REPAIRS TOO.

I reckon you have a bad earth. Dont forget you have mounted the sender in a rubber hose , so you need to run an earth wire to the engine block or to the car body . You may have already run this earth wire but its not earthing properly. !!!!!

Hi - Mine broke too (R33 GTS-T Auto) at about 96000klm , apparently its a common fault , there is a little bracket that breaks inside the speedo , VERY difficult to get to without buggering the whole speedo assembly , I mailed my assembly to Richmond-Tweed instruments who fixed it for $100. He guarantees his fix will NEVER break again!!!!!!!

GOOD WORK WOrp.!!!! I just added my name to the list , they have 20 on the list already , I reckon they will get 150 when word gets around , the price isnt too bad either , about $100Aus. I paid $120 a few months ago just for the wiring diagram chapter of the WH Statesman manual set... COME ON ALL YOU R33 JOCKEYS- LETS GET THIS HAPPENING , EVERYONES BEEN PEED OFF AT NOT BEING ABLE TO ACCESS AN ENGLISH VERSION, ALL OUR TROUBLES COULD BE OVER!!!!!!!!

You will have to use the speedo out of the R34 Donor car , or get the speedo internals altered to suit the new donks gearbox sender . There is a great mob that do Nissan speedos , Richmond -Tweed instruments, they do mail orders too.

Hi - I have even been to Japan , no luck , I did hear though that there is a full master chassis manual held in Nissan HQ in Tokyo, but apparently it would take forever to translate & Nissan refuse to hand it over to anyone to try.

Do you have a Car Alarm that flashes the Parkers on/off when its triggered??? That could be why the interior light problems occurring when door is opened??? If so Theres a fault in your car alarm???

Actually , I reused the old gaskets even!!!! , I carefully separated them from the rocker covers & cleaned them with Kero, cleaned the mating metal surfaces of the heads & rocker covers, took the haf-moon thingys off the rear of the heads & cleaned & recoated them with the sealant , then used a hitemp silicone grey colour stuff ($14.00odd) from repco, both sides of the gaskets, then whacked them back on!!!!! Drove round the block to warm up the heads to cure the sealant & its stuck like SxxT to a blanket!!!!! Good for another 100,000 klm I reckon!!!!!!!!

Just finished re-sealing the rocker cover gaskets on my R33 GTS-T 4 Door. Did it as per the thread in the DIY forum, everything worked out perfectly & NO MORE OIL LEAKS YEEEEAAAHHHH!!!!!!!! Many thanks to the guys who post these DIY threads , it sure makes it easy for us mere mortals!!!!!!

You should find access covers for the bulb replacement on the rear cases of each headlight. If you need to totally remove the headlights you need to remove the whole front bumper assembly which isnt an easy job!!!!!!!

There is an excellent thread on the STAGEA forum. Covers all the steps to change the timing belt on a RB26 motor , Yes , the crank pulley nut is the hardest thing to undo , its done up to 650ft/lb torque , you may need to make up a pulley lock tool to hold the pulley still while you crack the nut.

If you mean the Radiator fan doesnt come on when you turn the A/C on - thats normal!!!! It will only come on if the radiator water temp is past a certain temp via a thermo switch. Its similar to when A/C isnt selected on , the fan only operates by temp thermo switch. Hope that helps. You can check the fan operates by bridging the 2 wires in the connector thats just down the left side of the radiator (looking towards the rear of the car), that will bypass the thermo switch.

Hey Mate!!!! There is an excellent Thread on the "STAGEA" Forum of Skylines Australia , its topic number 73824 has several pages of top info on the process. Hardest bit is getting the nut undone on the crankshaft pulley... its a real Pxxck of a thing to crack. You may have to make up a flywheel locking tool to undo the nut . I believe its done up at the factory to 650ft/lbs of torque!!!!! Way too tight!!!!!!!! Good Luck...........

Try Caloundra City Autos , wwwcaloundracityautos.com.au , send an email from the website , attn Steve in Spare Parts .

There are also some tricky little plastic clips under each headlight glass between them & the top of the bumper . You need to slide in a thin piece of metal or a thin screwdriver to get the clip to release.

They are the same on all RB nissan motors . Even the VL Commodore (RB30) so try a Holden Dealer-Try GMH www.holden.com.au website for a Contact Us email address or phone number. Or somedealer in USA who is selling the Monaros???

I had a similar problem on a RB30 Nissan motor (same timing gear) In the end I had to split it open using a cold chisel along its length. Drastic but at least I got it off!!!! It was severely corroded onto the crankshaft. Apparently its a common problem with Nissan RB motors. Not too dear to buy a new one either - go to a Holden Dealer & get one , about $30 exactly the same as all RB motors size & tooth wise. Make sure you grease it up before you bang it onto the crankshaft.....

Neither- You will have to take it to an instrument repairer for recalibration electronically. Try Richmond- Tweed Instruments....

They are the same .......

Try Ebay (do a search "R33") You will get Engine ones on CD Rom quite cheap but I have yet to see a Body or Electrical one for a GTS-T in English!!!!! I did hear that the Japs NEVER released English versions of Body or Electrics , Best of Luck ,

Hi - I reckon its the left rear Shocker/strut top mount loose or the strut has failed internally. Its a bugger to get to to undo the top mount nuts (under the rear parcel shelf , but I had a similar noise & it was my strut internals stuffed!!!!!.

Try any Auto Electrical/Air Conditioning outfit - very common on Air Cond Plumbing lines under the bonnet near hot exhaust manifolds etc.......

Forget all the rest - try 32 front /30 rear.........Guaranteed best pressures for tyre life & moderate ride/ handling compromise. These the sphincter of the universes running 40psi must have shares in tyre companies because that will wear down the centre tread quicker than Alan Moffat's GTHO !!!!!!!!!

It depends what model speedo u r plugging in & whether its an automatic or manual vehicle - odds are it will not read correctly & will have to be recalibrated to suit the different sender on the new vehicle, it will have to go to a speedo shop together with the model info of the vehicle u r putting it in to........cost around $100 to get recalibrated......

You fail to realise the R33 has been built by astute Japanese , who have delicate little Japanese hands & fingers!!!!! They have no trouble with this simple job. However for us ham fisted, yobbo, gorillas- its very hard to get your mitts into the puny little gap to release the bulb holder. I changed mine by having my girlfriend stand a couple of metres from the wrong end of a pair of binoculars, I looked thru the binoculars & picked her up with a pair of tweezers & dropped her into the gap & she had no trouble changing the bulb!!!!!! EASY!!!!!!!!