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The Power Steering variable speed signals come from the main ECU of the vehicle- located behind driver side kick panel. These signals are modified to the Hicas (if fitted) via the Hicas ECU under rear parcel shelf. There is no separate ECU alone for the Power Steering. Another thing controled by the Main vehicle ECU is the timer for the rear window demister ( which often stuffs up ) the only cure is to replace the Main ECU of the vehicle. My advice is lock out your Hicas (nothing but trouble) by removing the plug from the Hicas ECU & fitting a HICAS bar to the rear wheels. Have you cleared the fault memory from the Main ECU lately!!!!! (Disconnect battery for about 30 secs then reconnect) Should clear any fault codes & may fix your problem...

I just did my r33 4 door belt & I bought one off ebay!!!! Its a Mitsubushi (spelling!!) brand but looks fine to me, cost $75 all up with postage......there is a great link with step by step instructions on how to change the belt on the STAGEA links pages in this Skylines Aust site too.......the hardest thing is how to get the bloody tight bolt undone holding the crankshaft balancer pulley on........

I did my belts on my 4 door R33 a few weeks ago & had a bugger of a time trying to undo that bolt!!!! I had to make up a steel bar that had a nut & bolt in one end long enough to slot into one of the balancer cut out webs , then the other end went across to one of the mount bolts for the power steering pump where it bolts onto the block . The steel was about a quarter inch thick by about an inch wide & about 10 inches long with a bend in it to match the balancer sticking out from the block. That effectively locked the balancer & crankshaft in place to stop it turning. Then I got the correct sized socket (half inch drive) & a breaker bar about 15 inches long , I positioned the bar vertically above the engine & had 2 people, one either side of the car, one pulling , one pushing on the bar. On the count of 3 we both gave an almighty pull/push & the bolt gave with a pronounced noise!!!!!! Hope that helps, just dont do it back up that tight!!!!!! (Another tip- dont do the idler tensioner pulley up too much tension or your new belt will make a awful grinding noise- just use thumb & forefinger to be able to wobble new belt back & forth about half an inch at its mid point between pulleys- thats enough tension. Also make dead sure that all the timing marks on the cam sprockets line up - they can be deceiving unless you look at them exactly from front on - easy when engine is out of car but very hard when engine is in the car...... Good luck - My email [email protected] if you need more help .

I have 2 possibles- 1- has your car got a car alarm on it??? It could be the anti theft relay not de-energising , 2- Could be the crank angle sensor (on the front of the timing belt cover r/h/s). Did you replace it or bump it when installing engine???? They are very sensitive to voltage spikes or wrong wiring connection (full of transistors that stuff up if not wired up right).....

Hi , yesterday I backed my boat propeller into the plastic bootlid garnish on my r33 4 door skyline , put a nice neat little 3 inch hole in it!!!! After crying for 20 mins , I now need a replacement garnish, you know the filler panel on the bootlid with the word SKYLINE on it!!!! Anyone know where I can get one?????????

Well, I have just changed my Cam Belt & I would like to say its not as straight forward as one thinks , Firstly , just about every bolt on my engine was done up SUPER tight!!!! So make sure you have good quality spanners, sockets etc. My biggest problem was trying to undo the HUGE bolt that holds the crankshaft Pulley/Harmonic Balancer on... I couldnt figure out how to stop the crank from rotating whilst trying to get the bolt undone (auto transmission,so couldnt lock the car en gine in gear)- ended up making a steel lock plate up out of 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide by about 9 inches long with a couple of holes either end & bent to go between the pulley front face & a bolt on the power steering mount assy , I screwed a nut/bolt thru the plate ,sticking out far enough to protrude into one of the cutout holes on the crank pulley, & bolted at the other end of the plate to the power steer bracket. That effectively locked the crankshaft enough to undo the crank bolt which must have been torqued up to about 300ft/lbs!!!!!!! I used a 15 inch breaker bar to undo it!!!!!!!! I couldnt use the hammer /rattle gun as it wont fit between the engine & air cond condenser radiator!!!! Also , be prepared to have to change your fan/power steer/air cond belts too as mine were all well worn & cracked on the inner sides of the belts. They arent easy to get either, not sold over counter & have to be ordered from Repco. Also my bottom radiator hose was stuffed & had to be replaced , again not easy to get......So there you go- other than that the new cam belt went on quite easily, dont forget there is an adjustable pulley to tension the new belt , its the left-hand one looking at the engine from the front rearwards- its loosened by undoing its front nut & there is a little allen key hole below the nut to wind it tighter/looser as required then tighten the nut again, DONT do it up too tight as you will get a lot of belt noise when the engine is running , allow plus/minus 5mm flex on longest run of the belt using one finger pressure only. My old belt was quite loose on the pulleys so was a good time to change it (car had done genuine 90000klms , ) so dont delay changing it !!!!!!

Thank You for an absolutely superb post!!!!!! It took me 2 hours to find it in the website but now I have bookmarked it as I am about to "Have a go" at replacing my belt on my r33 gts-t 4 door. A million thanks , you must be helping heaps of diy's on this subject. Regards.....Col...

I had a similar rattle over bumpy roads from the parcel shelf area of the rear of my r33 gts-t , turned out it was loose top mounts of the rear suspension struts , which mount in the parcel shelf area (a bugger to get to as well!!!!!).....easy to tighten up once you get to them....

I can only suggest your battery terminals , remove both & give a good clean with wire brush & the battery posts. Ck your -ve earth lead from the battery to body mount point is secure , another cause could be your voltage regulator which is inside the back of the alternator, can be replaced separately though. Have you washed down your engine bay lately- could be water in the main wiring loom/box area???? Good Luck....

Best of luck!!!! I have been trying to find a readable english wiring diagram for my 96 4 door GTS-T to no avail!!!!! Someone on an old post about a year ago reckoned they dont exist!!!!!!! So out with the old circuit lamp & ohmeter & go for it !!!!!!!!

THATS FUNNY-MY 96 R33 GTS-T 4 DOOR SUNROOF HAD THE SAME PROBLEM!!! I FIXED IT BY CAREFULLY BENDING BOTH SIDE TRACKS UP. I DID IT BY LYING ON THE BACK SEAT & USED MY LEGS & FEET TO PUSH UPWARDS ON EACH SIDE TRACK AT THE MOUNT POINTS WHERE ITS WELDED TO THE ROOF FRAME. I GOT ABOUT 20MIL UP MOVEMENT. WHICH WAS ENOUGH TO MAKE THE SEALS WATERTIGHT. I WONDER WHY THEY ARE LIKE THAT???????

you will find that the sealed boot mounted batterys in r33s are of a type that have high voltage charge from alternator when first started from cold but as they warm up it will drop down below 15v. In short its normal for these small sealed unit batteries...........

Try your local Repco shop-they have Helicoil Kits, very easy to use , if you dont want to do it yourself then they will know someone who can do the job,

definite leak in the line to the boost gauge somewhere may be the t piece connection???

you could try a fibreglass repair , as the ends are cast alloy they are very hard to weld- impossible to get a good weld , any good fibreglass shop will bind it up & resin it good as gold , cheapest way I reckon.....

its actually the power steering control module-nothing to do with hicas ........

shouldnt need new gaskets as they are rubber ones & generally stay on the covers as they come off the head. have some rag handy as oil may dribble out at rear of engine & run down behind firewall. make sure you remember plug lead positions & any wires you undo. wont have to drain oil or water at all, good luck......

I actually rang Nissan Aust who emailed Japan & guess what- its the power steering computer module which modifies steering feel as speed increases!!!!! Nothing to do with hicas or demister or amp for radio.......

i fitted one to my r33 4 door & it took over a week to fit !!!!! Bugger of a job too...& I had an instruction fitting sheet!!!!!!!

Does anyone know where i can get a electronic timer box for the rear window demister for a r33 4 door gts-t , also where is the little bugger located on the car??????

actually I have the box & my car doesnt have hicas at all???? So I reckon its the timer box for the rear screen electric demister?????? Any more theories????

HI- THE M SPEC ONES WONT FIT!!! THEY WILL IF YOU HANG THEM OUT ABOUT 40MM FROM THE BUMPER. THE PROBLEM IS THEY HIT ON THE INTERCOOLER INLET/OUTLET PIPES. YOU HAVE TO MAKE UP NEW MOUNT BRACKETS TO EXTEND THEM FORWARDS .THEY LOOK A BIT VULNERABLE BUT IF YOURE CAREFUL THEY WILL BE OK.

WHAT A WASTE OF TIME ,EFFORT & MONEY- I HAVE A LS1 STATESMAN & A 96 R33 GTS-t SKYLINE & I CAN TELL YOU RIGHT NOW THAT THE SKYLINE WINS HANDS DOWN FOR INSTANT PERFORMANCE & HANDLING & THRILL FACTOR. THE LS1 WOULD HAVE TO BE THE MOST DOUGHY , WEAK V8 I HAVE EVER DRIVEN , & UNTIL YOU WIND IT UP OVER 5000RPM ITS AS WEAK AS P.SS. STICK TO THE BEST 6 CYLINDER DONK EVER MADE IN THE HISTORY OF THE MOTOR VEHICLE I SAY!!!!!!!!!!

ITS A BLACK BOX WITH ABOUT 20 WIRES GOING TO IT RIGHT BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX WHICH YOU HAVE TO REMOVE ALONG WITH THE SURROUND PANEL. ITS MARKED WITH A SMARTLOCK MOTIF ON THE OUTSIDE. ITS ABOUT 3INCHES BY 3 INCHES by 2INCHES. Cant Miss It!!!!!!