mr_rbman

327km/h down conrod was delicious to watch

so i went for a drive this arvo.. set the laptop up and waited til the oil temp was above 80 degrees and then did multiple second and third gear pulls to ~7000rpm with no cut.. I think i'm still going to add another 3-500mm of oil taking up to close on 6L and see how things go.. I do realise inevitably i'm going to need a bigger sump sooner rather than later..

ye it is overfilled by half a litre. I'm going to take it for a drive tomorrow once it's above 80 degrees and log it to see what happens.. If it still cuts i'll put another half a litre in and if still no good i'll have to look into extended sumps once the bank account shows some signs of life again 🙃

I believe he's referring to the fact that with colder oil it will take longer to get back to the sump?!? I had been idling for over 10 minutes and drove sedately for five minutes before giving it that pull... Not having an aftermarket oil temp gauge obviously failed me here cause I honestly assumed it would have been up to temp by then...

yep, definitely causing a low fuel pressure issue...

Cheers Ben.. The cut is from low oil pressure... Wish I could say I was surprised but was kinda expecting it running standard sump with only a Tomei baffle... I did the pull with the oil only being at ~45 degrees so my tuner (Ampl) is saying that won't be helping things (50w oil) and suggested i try a pull and log it again once oil temp is 80 degrees + So the log above is showing when the voltage drop happens fuel pressure drops and my duty cycle is getting up around 92-93% (1250cc Bosch Injectors), hence why he didn't want to wind more boost in until the voltage issue is sorted... Coilpacks are 35 GTR (Hitachi) Fuel system is very simple, Aeroflow intank pump (460LPH from memory), standard fuel lines, pump wiring had a direct 12v feed but I can't recall what gauge wring (was done 6/7 years ago...)

so i tried a log, no idea if this will upload but here goes... second to third it appears as though voltage drop to 12.7v roughly... also hitting a cut now, maybe low oil pressure seeing how well it hooks up with the good rubber... tried viewing the safety cut for oil pressure but can't seem to find it... second to third pull - 07022023.llgx

So first test drive on good rubber resulted in me destroying a brand new RE71RS The front brake duct decided to dislodge itself from the bumper, get stuck between my tyre and brakes resulting in a 4mm gouge. The white smoke it made had me very concerned so certainly could've been a lot worse... IMG_6087.MOV

Cheers!

Tried searching for this locally but it appears you can only source from the likes of RHDJapn etc?!?

OK cool. So exactly the same as the LS upgrade through CWC, a quick search shows a few people using both without too many dramas?!?

So I've priced up the LS alternator @ $500 + postage... Any other recommendations? I see Frenchy's has released one but it's getting closer towards $700...

cheers. Link G4X so yes you're right, i'll plug the laptop in and have a squiz (not used to a car with logging capabilities 🙃

so what should i do (from home) to eliminate other issues or potentially confirm that the alternator isn't up to the task?

mmmm, interesting... This side of things (electrical) goes over my head so I just took him at his word... I'll have a chat to him next week to get a clearer understanding...

Ended up making 430rwkws on E85 at just 20 psi. Having alternator issues (not the limiting factor I was expecting).. Tuner says it's still got more in it with a new alternator so looking into the LS1 conversion... ...Not heaps though as the small rear wheel is just beginning to restrict things and potentially my small pod filter too....

Had an update call from the tuner today. 98 tune is all complete... Made 378rwkws on wastegate pressure (16-17psi from memory) not bhed...

New battery sourced, thank @BK and @Dose Pipe Sutututu On special at Autobarn too so win win... The guy at Autobarn saw that I was replacing my Optima with this and said I was nuts going from an Optima to a Supercharge, haha

tis already gone, just the one wideband roughly 1000mm from turbo..

Clear as now, cheers Ben

ye that was my initial thinking... just so I wrap my head around this, both a narrow band and wide band sensor are essentially both just o2 sensors correct!?!

when u say o2 are you referring to the wideband? same same...?!? as that's just cable tied in that position now til we workout where it will enter the car... excuse my dumbness, these are the sides of cars that I fail at...

So the radiator is back in now, apart from the battery she's done in my hands. Dropping to the mechanic / tuner on the 23rd...

sweet, i should be home... south is where it's at