gtst4d

i might have a set of sedan seats in good nick pm me how much you would want with the trade

you have pm

will it be complyed and ready for rego.

Found this and it sounds like a better version than the GTT. http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/compare/?show_compare_list

I was thinking the same thing but was assured that it was factory turbo. I did find a site that had two different turbo models from nissan, but this site had different letters describeing there 34 lineup, the GGT turbo and the GGX turbo it was a U.K. based site i dont know if that would have anything to with it.

can anyone help me out with this please, getting kind of desperate and dont want to buy some povo pack model

Hi all, I am looking at buying a R34 sedan and have found a GTX turbo sedan auto, but i havent heard of one of these in a turbo before and was wondering what the differance between the GTt and the GTXt is. I have found a site that listed all the 34 models but i could not find the same model letters that we use in Aus. Any help with this matter would be great. Thanks Andrew

I will be in for shore.

I am down in nowra can someone call me and tell me what is happening on 0413389021 cheers.

is this thing still going to be on or should you postpone it.

I second HRthirtyone, get it on the dyno to check the air fuel ratio, if anything just to be safe because if they are bad all the money you spent on the rebuild will be wasted. ps forget the weels and get a computer for the car.

I might be keen if it is still on but wont be able to stay for to long, will be my daugter I, my wife might have to do some work tomorrow. We will be coming from Nowra I might call Chessa in the morning to find out what is happening or I will check back here to see what is happening.

If you have done a new timming belt it could be that, mine did the same and it turns out it was to tight and we just backed it of a little and the noise went away, and some belts are noiser than others.

what are they out of cheers

I had the same problem on my 25, just one day on startup it it blew a puff of smoke and was a little bit rattly as well, thought it was a cracked piston, but it was the valve guides that were flogged out and that in turn allowed the valves to move around and stuff the valve stem seals thus the oil getting in to the cylinder. Cost me about $750.00 at the engineers for a full head service which included guides and seals and valves seat grind (24 of each DAM) then the gasket kit i think was around $300.00 and i did my own labour at a mates workshop. But i would look at getting a leak down test done first, because i had my motor out and apart before this was found, so two mounths and four and a half grand later with rb26 rods and fordged pistons its all good mate. Hope that helps. ps my motor didnt blow smoke every start after that just some of the time.

17inch rimms will give you a nicer ride and a better selection of tyres at a better price mind you i have 18s and love them untill i have to buy tyres for them, $250 each for the most crappy tyre you can get in 265x35x18 Thumbs up Andrew

I noticed that you are from Launceston and was wondering if you can get your hands on 98 ron fuel because i have read that in some places guys in tassie could not get it and it really limited there power, just some food for thought

Hello I would like to know the size of the piping on the r33 kit thanks

Put it on a dyno for a quick check should only cost about 50-60 bucks that way you know what is realy happening.

If it is a type of ticking noise it could be flogged out valve guides, thats if it sounds up high in the motor, as for the thrust bearing does it change sound if you put the clutch in.

do you still think this is a good upgrade sk or have things changed over time

they are to be done up between 27 and 31nm there is an order but i will have to work out how to scan it for you.

Any other ideas or ways to find out where my oil is going, is there some checks i could be doing. And does anyone have any ideas on the waste gate problem and i forgot to say that i have a turbo smart 2 stage bleed valve. thanks for the input.

All the clearances where good the machine work was done in a good machine shop and i did most of the asembly in a mate mahcanic workshop, I made sure the the ring gaps where in the right position and that every thing was checked befor it went in. As far as run in went this is what i did: started engin up and run it for 10 minutes with mineral oil then dumped the oil and filter then put mineral oil back in and did 500 kms with that then changed to motul 4100 turbolight. I then did 5000 kms with that then changed the oil and filter i did notice a little oil useage in that first 5000 kms and i am about 3000kms into the next one. My concern is that mabey i babyed it to much in that first 500 kms. Is there any whey to check if the turbo seal is going? thanks for the in put.

Hi all, i have 2 questions, the first one is that after i did the rebuild on the rb25 it seems to be using oil, about 1 litre per 3000kms and i am starting to think that i have not bedded the rings properly and have glazed the bore. If this is the case is it possable to deglazed the bore by going back to mineral oil for 5000km or so. The second problem is that the waste gate on my r33 rb25 turbo gets stuck open. Every time I stand on it, it comes on boost and goes great but once i have boosted it a couple of time quickly the wastegate stays open and it wont build boost, then if i give it a couple of minutes of cruising it it will close and then will build boost again. Is my wastegate actuator stuffed and if so will the standard r33 computer handle the one of a r32. Any help would be great, thanks Andrew.