Pezhead

Yup, mine is topped up. Was just reading on the UK forum that the activator solenoid can get stuck so going to try taking that off but it requires me to drain the whole system. So will have to go get more ATF tomorrow to top it all back up.

So here is the really strange thing. I bled the system but fluid does just keep coming out without the system even on. And the weird bit is that the front shaft is engaged all the time. Seems like my transfer case is locked on. I had this problem when I first rebuilt it, but another shop determined that the case was put together incorrectly and fixed it. It was working fine immediately after the diff change cause I pulled the front drive shaft to drive it to the tuner immediately after. But when I was going to put the shaft back in after the tune was the first I noticed it. Any ideas?

Nice Idea. I've been thinking of doing that one myself. You might want to buy an extra long extension off ebay to get it down a bit, but not too far, the spot metering gets a bit confused if there is too much overglare from direct sunlight. I'll be doing something similar soon. Thanks for posting it up.

It's plugged in. So going to try bleeding the system again on Sunday.

OK I get you. Will check that.

Hmm, so do I bleed the system from the one bleed nipple off the back of the transmission? I've done it before with unplugging the bleed wire option. So I'll need to see how they blocked the A-LSD and see if I can somehow bleed the blocked line.

I haven't used Consult, I thought it was on the stock ECU. Now there isn't a bleed plug on the diff - since it is replaced with a non A-LSD R32 unit. The bleed for the Attessa is on the rear of the trans. What bleed plug are you referring? Is there an electronic bit there? I had Award diff do the work. Terry said that they've done a fair few of these conversions but never run into this issue. It has us both scratching our heads a bit.

I'm running an Autronic computer so no ODBII fault diagnostic. Where is the "light" on the Attesa computer under the parcel shelf. I looked for it but didn't see any LED lights.

That's part of what I wanted to know. Do I have to find a R33 non-vspec Attesa computer? The only wiring on the rear diff was the ABS sensors and we left those in place. I thought that the Attesa computer would just send signals to the pump (that's blocked off) and that would be it. The sensors in the diff are the same. So it is just the mechanical A-LSD is shunt off.

Hi guys, I'm having a problem after switching the diff on my R33 GTR v-spec to an r32 GTR non-vspec diff with carbonetic LSD center. The preload stays on for too long after an initial start. Then after a few seconds the ABS/4wd/LSD light comes on. The A-LSD lines from the pump have been blocked off. The system has been bled. The shop has checked all 4 wheel sensors and they are sending pulses. Diff ratios checked and number of "cogs" on the rear ABS same between old and new stud shafts. Has anyone had a similar issue when swapping the diff and center? Do I need to swap to a non-vspec Attesa computer? I'm stumped.

My building let us go so on my way home now. Very long short day.

I'm in the CBD. As are Matt, Aggro and Lizbert. Time will tell if the level of activity is appropriate or not. In cases like these, I think there is no clear appropriate response level while the event is unfolding. Personally, I just can wait to go home.

These are pretty raw cause I have no time to edit anything since I'm taking care of these guys. Probably going to inundate the thread but I think these guys are pretty photogenic.

Mine are run parallel. That's the way the Autronic 500R manual and SMC say to wire it up for wasted spark. Parallel charges each coil independently and when the field collapses that's what triggers the secondary coil and spark. For CDI the unit controls both positive and negative coil wires running like a hundred volts rather than just 12v (14.4v). The result is bigger field but with less amps. So it really depends on the application. Heat is still a consideration. The coils by their nature create heat and while epoxy bonded they are still metal with thin layer of insulation. I want to measure the heat in there on a track day. I'm sure it is an oven. If too hot, I might put some PC cooling fans in for air cooling.

I've just paired up some splitfires with my 500R CDI unit. Mine is only 4 channel so I'm running 3 channel wasted spark. Mercury Motorsport posted about a similar set up a few years back. About to turn up the boost so will let you know how it goes.

Lov dem getto mods Pete. I was thinking of doing some hinges for my tomei baffle but didn't get round to it. Hope to test my set up soon

Thanks Adam. That's pretty much what I took out as well. Additionally: The rating for an RB is SH or SJ grade oil (I think that's right). Most newer cars are rating SN. The metallurgy and coatings actually dictate the type of oil that should be used. Newer engines will have special requirements that need to be considered. The best place to start is with the OEM recommended viscosity and then move up if needed due to heat. Contamination is what really determines oil life span. That's why oils in transmissions and diffs last longer. Being sealed there is less contamination.

When I had the transfer case rebuilt on my car they re-assembled it wrong and it was locked all the time. Not sure if you had any work like that done.

I should be in, either Rupret the tuner wanna be or Godzilla.

Nice! Go team Handley!

I'll buy the nismo shifter knob. How much shipped to 2074?

Thanks so much guys! Excellent tech and practical information. And lots of tips to help us that track our cars. Excellent all around. Here are a few snaps I took. Well, Tez helped me out with one

Just updated the video and added throttle position and manifold pressure. hehe toys galore! Replay it again as I replaced the original video with the new one.

Three data sources going into this video. Sony Actioncam video, QStarz GPS logger and DashDaq ECU Logging.

Awesome pics! Thanks so much.