Pezhead

Sorry Mate, I posted the coupon in the NSW forum when it was up on www.scoopon.com.au - but was only available for 24 hrs. Pricing is $24/10 min $46/20 min on Go Karts. Also have "Skid Cars" for $19/10 min or $36/20 min Also $9 for a "License" good for 12 months.

You've got to be kidding - This is fun indoor karting folks! Get off the lazy stick and post that you're com'n along!

Ah, July in Goulburn - no need for a pool or spa. Beside, I have a spa at home - about to go have a dip now. 38 degrees

Hey I'm planning on driving down the 16th and staying the night too. How does this place look? Alpine Heritage Motel $63 for a budget single Rm

Thanks - yeah, I've been like glowing happy about how it turned out. Not perfect, but great overall effect on the car.

Ah, thanks Anna. Sometimes when I drive the GTR my right foot thinks it's 11

Good to hear that it turned out alright, but I'm always a little bit wary of shops that don't give you the full details first go round. And I thought that we have Cam angle sensors (CAS) not crank angle sensor - that is unless your car has has the ignition trigger modified. I hope that they found the dodgy work and didn't do it themselves. Hard to know unless you find it before you take it to them. That's why I say +1 for doing small maintenance yourself. You'll be surprised what you find and you can spot check some of the shop's work.

Ok I can't ever figure out facebook. How to I "subscribe" to the page - clicked "LIKE" but doesn't seem to show up anywhere. Help me I'm old and feeble!

What - He's right is need a "cabron firber" one. Can someone please point me to where I can buy cabron firber?

Nice one Anna How bout this one for the Wakie pic - last time Cass, Liz, Phil and I went out to Wakie. How did Mr. Cass get in front of me?

Ok so put the lip on the car. Still a few little things to do, but this is how it looks.

So I was in a hurry today on a schedule so no build pictures. Basically, I had to wet sand, polish and clear coat the lip. Had to clear coat because the epoxy resin got a bunch of tiny air bubbles in it that made it haze up every time I tried to polish it - seemed like the tiny pits from the air bubbles fill up with polish making spots everywhere. So hours of wet sanding to get it all smooth and then a single coat of clear paint. All up, it didn't turn out too bad. There are a few things I learned that will definitely make the next project turn out better. I plan to use a vacuum bag technique on the next project that should really improve the finish. Then I had to break the part free of the mold. Good think I used that PVA cause was harder than I thought to remove the fibreglass that exactly fits on top of the model. Also glad I used wood cause foam would have just broken apart. I could pry against the wood with a putty scraper and didn't damage the wood at all. Last was mounting it on the car. It turned out exactly the shape I wanted. Before someone asks the obvious - I meant it to have lots of clearance as I still only have about 20 mm clearance when I pull out of my driveway. This lip was meant to be a full road driven part. One good hit on a curb or bottoming out and then it's all over. Also very happy with the fitment as it fits the lines and shape (in my opinion) of the aggressive GTR bar. The finish is only ok - but I know what I need to fix for next time. What do you folks think?

Sorry both sold. Thanks.

Since the weather has turned - it's time to go indoor kart racing at Kartatak Indoor Raceway Some of us got a deal on scoopon.com.au so this is the chance to use those scoopons or just come and have a good time. Plan is to meet up at Kartatak on the 20th June around 1 PM. Are people interested in having a small cruise before or after maybe to a local Maccas or something? Also, once numbers are in, I'll call them and let them know we're coming. Post up if you're in.

I was spotted in Hornsby by guy in a white van [motioned to roll down window] said he owns a 34 NUR - and also my wheel alignment sucked! Also spotted a really clean black 31 GTS-R with silver rims drive pass the rail side of Hornsby mall.

I've been there too. Spouses don't really understand our need to spend such big bucks on the car. Of course then I don't understand the need to spend 4k on a set of window blinds for only two rooms. On the topic of shops, well I find even the best of them will have off days. Goes with the hassle of owning a performance car. See if someone on the forums can "lend" you their AFM's for a check. Since it works ok after the car warms up is it just a cold idle thing? I noticed even my car is running differently since the ambient temps have dropped here in Sydney. The computer does a lot of changes before the car warms up to temp. I do hope you get is sorted out ok. I had a very rough first year with my car too, but now is all good and the investments are going into improvements rather than fixes.

Wow, nice effects - really gives it that "TRON" look.

If this is a go, I'd be interested - IN.

In America, studies have found that people's perception on the quality of a car is directly proportional to the number of cup holders - YANKS! I own a 33 GTR and my sentiment is exactly the same as those posted here. The lines of the 33 just flow. While the 32 and 34 are much more aggressive looking, the 33 is the perfect blend of style and aggression. In my Opinion at least.

RC pilots have been experimenting with this for a while - known as first person viewing flying (FPV). FPV Video Pilot Home Have a look around there. In order to set up a rig, I'd imagine you'd need to build a custom lens (for the optical zoom) and perhaps a remote platform so you can control x-y coordinate tracking of the picture. I think you'd be better off transmitting the analog video signal rather than trying to convert it to digital. It is easier to modulate and receive analog than digital unless you are willing to invest big bucks in the hardware. Good luck with the project - post your results if you can.

The wood model isn't going to stay in the finish product. will separate the fibreglass from the wood model. Will probably put some more FG layers inside for strength. The main reason I didn't create a mold is that you can see the part is very slender at the end. I wasn't sure I would be able to keep the profile in a mold.

Hey folks, I've been working on a custom Carbon lip for my GTR for a couple of months. I'm almost done so decided to post a thread in the fabrication forum. Check it out Here Here are a couple of pics from that topic: I'll be posting pictures of it on the car when fully completed (hopefully in a week or two).

Are we ready for Carbon yet? ... YES! OK, so now the part is nice and smooth and all ready for carbon coating. I mixed some black dye into the resin for the first coat. This creates a dark coating under the carbon just in case you can see the layer under through the weave. Just like before allow this layer of epoxy to set up to thick and sticky. Black dye epoxy coat I used this time to cut the carbon cloth. I bought this fabric from the US. Was cheaper by the yard over there and I needed 3 continuous yards, the cost savings paid for the shipping and still had some savings. But this stuff is still not cheap! I ended up paying about $200 for 5 yards of fabric (bought some additional for other projects too). So, like before use the masking tape to keep the fabric from fraying. This is even more important on the Carbon as the weave is much coarser. It is very easy for the fabric to come undone. Cutting the Carbon Cloth (at this point I just had to sit and stare at how gorgeous the carbon looks) When the epoxy was ready I carefully laid on the carbon cloth. The trick is to take your time. Work a small area at a time so you don't get wrinkles in it. Oh, and this is very sticky! The rubber gloves get covered with epoxy that seeps through the fabric weave. Before long your fingers stick to everything. I found that I had to lay down the carbon, but then switch to a new pair of gloves so that I didn't get epoxy all over everything I was working with. Carbon - even at this stage looks so good I then put a coat of epoxy over the top and make sure that it impregnates the Carbon Fabric. Epoxy impregnation Once that coat set up, on for two more full coats. Gloss over the top really starts to look good. Flow Coats This is pretty much how it looks now - finishing to come

Prepping for Carbon - aka even more Smoothing At this point I decided I better start trimming it up so that the edges are nice and clean. Mainly I had to trim off the excess bits. Most were only 1 layer or so as I tried to do most of the trimming while the glass was still wet. Trimmed Part With three layers of fibreglass there bound to be some small waves or areas where the glass lifted. On the areas that did, I used some very rough sandpaper to cut down the high spots. BIG TIP: Fibreglass filings are just like little needles. When you sand they get stuck in your skin and itch like crazy. So, I used some disposable gloves (got a box of 100 from bunnings cheap) and wet sand down the fibreglass. The water turns milky because it catches all the fibreglass bits. Then just dump out the water. After days and days of fibreglass work I can say my skin hasn't been irritated at all. So, now apply bog to low spots are areas that need it and smooth out some more (get the picture, I've used almost an entire container of bog on this one project!). More Smoothing

Finally - Laying fibreglass To prep the surface I applied some release wax and several coats of the liquid PVA. This creates a layer that should release between the model and the layers of fibreglass over the top. Need to cut some fibreglass cloth. A trick I learned from another site is to use masking tape on the cloth. This gives you a mark to cut on but more importantly keeps the cloth ends from coming undone. Be sure to leave enough extra width to lay over the boundaries of your part. Cutting cloth with a straight edge razor Next, put the first coat of resin directly on top of the PVA that has now dried. All this to cure until it is sticky and thick (Sorry, no pics of this). Laying cloth After the cloth is laid down on the resin, and is flat with no wrinkles or pulls start applying epoxy over the top with a brush. It will turn a bit translucent when the resin permeates the cloth. Some times a dabbing motion is better than brush stroke for getting the resin pushed into the cloth. I then allowed this to cure for a bit. While it was curing, I used a straight edge razor to trim the excess. This is great on a couple of counts. First anything you trim now is something you don't have to cut or sand later. Anyone that has worked fibreglass will tell you it is messy and itchy. Much better to work it while it is still cloth before it turns hard. Second, it is really easy to trim the part to the desired shape. I found that trimming is best after the resin has set up quite a bit. First Coat of Fibreglass done Another layer going on