Pezhead

Thanks Fellas, I really didn't know how I was going to do the video until a few days ago. I took lots of footage but having a "static" car isn't nearly as exciting as my usual video footage at track days or Texi. So good thing I took all those stills, the montage effect really made the video come to life with a few moving video bits for diversity. Thanks for the positive comments.

Ok guys, Here is the video from the Show -n- Shine. Thanks to everybody for doing such a great job on the event and detailing their cars. They look fantastic.

Finished the first video - RC Drifting. Up on YouTube now. Might try to upload a higher quality version somewhere else later.

I had a similar problem but one of the adjuster mounting points broke. Here is the thread on how I fixed it with some 5 minute epoxy and a screw. Headlight Fix

Thanks for the video Terry - I just got it in the mail. Good thing too as my video of the Skaif Richards car didn't turn out.

Wow, I can't believe how many people are really upset about the trophies. I mean come on, there were so many nice cars there at the event. I couldn't believe the build quality of some of the cars. Maybe we should do a people's choice system at the next one - where ballots are passed out on entry or something. It's a shame because I think that anyone that puts the effort we all do into our cars should be able to win an award and not have all of the banter about shoulda, woulda, coulda. I thought that the whole quality of all the cars was impressive. I know I spent a few days cleaning things up, polishing, waxing, etc. We should all just be proud of our club.

Top Day Guys! All the folks that put their heart and soul into this - thanks! I'm still downloading the media to the computer so going to take a while to sort through it all.

loading the cameras in the car now - see you fellas soon.

The Jinx is spreading - wife was reading in the front room last night and I go in to give her a goodnight kiss. What suddenly shoots across the floor by my right foot - Huntsman! CURSE! Jinx! Darn you guys!

I'll be there and can help out while I video and stuff. Let me know what I can to do assist.

Will do, I've got a few spare.

Daniel did the alarm work on my GTR. Even came to my work place to do the install. Top guy.

Hmm, trying to decide if I can do Video and participate... will be in one way or another. Go to a tyre shop sometimes they'll sell you just one. Otherwise auto parts store but I'm pretty sure the only sell in sets of 4/5.

Stop driving the car - right now! This has been covered a lot in previously. You cannot put differient diameter tyres on a GTR. The rotation sensors think the tyres are slipping and tries to put power to the fronts. Since front and rear are spinning at different speeds, the lock up of the transfercase has to absorb the difference. Wouldn't take long to burn out your clutch packs. Take one set of tyres off and get them replaced with the same size. Since your's is a 32 you may be able to pull the fuse to disable the 4wd system until you can get the correct sized tyres on. (can't do that on an r33 or r34 due to the 4wd system preload).

So I went to change a bulb and found the headlamp inside could move freely. Thought I'd post some pics here incase anyone else has to open their sealed headlamps for a fix. I found a youtube video that talked about how to use a heat gun to soften up the glue and open the sealed unit. Use the heat gun around 3-4 slow passes over an area and slowly work it open with a putty knife. The glue is very stiff like black tar so just work it slowly over the area and work your way around the lamp. I had to set the heat gun pretty high heat so a hair dryer won't do the trick - needs a fair bit of heat. I could see the glue that was exposed melt up when the heat hits it. It took a fair bit of time to get it open - probably 1.5 hours. My heat gun broke so I had to get another today to finish the "opening ceremony". Inside I found that one of the plastic mounts had split and broken. I've repaired by putting a screw across it and epoxy to "weld" the crack up. Have to let the epoxy set 24 hrs so won't be going back on until tomorrow night. How'd a 5 minute lamp bulb change turn into a full weekender!

I posted a checklist in this thread - post #87 on page 5. OP SAU TrackDay

I'm considering doing some parts too. Covering looks simple enough. Search Google for vacuum bagging carbon fibre technique. You use plastic to vacuum hold your object to the shape. This forces the carbon weave to sit flush without as many ripples. Of course you need something small enough to cover in plastic and hold vacuum while it cures.

Have a small Bar Fridge for sale - Sydney Pick-up Only. Old unit but works well and reliable. $40 - you come pick it up. Samsung unit - has small area for ice tray (no tray included, sorry). PICS: PM or SMS me (0419468835)

Hi Son, Most of what you've asked has been covered in the forums. Might try a search on most of it. Esp the NGK plug numbers. As long as you run stock boost you should be able to leave them gapped as they come. Only need to regap for higher boost levels. For Oil ditch the Pennzoil. In fact Pennzoil uses a waxy additive that builds up in the engine over time - very bad! Thick oil is one of the worst things for the RB26. Make sure you stay under 10 cold (first number) and 30-40 hot (second number) - the OEM on them is 0w30 weight oil which you can get in Chrono 300v. I get mine from Unique Auto Sports in seven hills as do a number of members here. You won't find the Chrono in most auto parts stores. And it isn't cheap - about $100 for 4 litres / 50 for 2. Oh, also Just Jap stocks it too. For the street I use Mobile 1 Full Syn as street temps and driving shouldn't be that hard on oil. I use Chrono for track work. When does your boost come on? The RB is a rev motor so doesn't have a lot of torque (in stock form) down low. In fact I was very surprised when I got mine that under low RPM's it just doesn't seem to perform like I had imagined (mainly from video games and all the GTR banter). You have to rev it up and keep it on boost to make Godzilla come alive - very normal. Mine wasn't stock when I bought it so not exactly sure on when the boost should come on but I think for stock level should be on "full boost" by 3500 rpms. Oh, and I would plan that 100k service. Engines do bad things when timing belts break, replacing the belt and tensioners is the big part of the 100k service.

Well, since it seems that I am fast becoming the self appointed NSW SAU Videographer I do plan to enter my car and spend the day shooting footage of all of the cars. Are there going to be any "special events"? Also, are the "winners" going to be announced on the day? Would be nice if I could get special footage of their cars and do a small "feature" on each with the owner. Any chance of that?

I say make it a R/C car! Wouldn't be that hard for a guy that cast his own heads and made his own valves and springs! In this video he talks about the build. I've see another video on it... 312 model video (english)

Thank Weevil, first outing was on Toyo street tires and stuffed transfer case.

Nice project. I really love how 33's look when the get that wide low stance (hence why I got an R33 GTR). Keep the project photos com'n.

spotted a yellow r33 GTST 400R Front bar - with dual exhaust (? - since when do RB's sport dual exhaust?) on Pennent Hill rd by the maccas/bunnings. Didn't catch the rego - but you were talk'n on your iphone as I passed in the right lane - for shame!

Hey Tenchi Just wanted to thank you again for the "extra" package of photos. I've used some as backdrops on my computer - they look Great! Going to have to make a couple into framed photos for the workshop. Cheers mate!