Pezhead

I went last year but only ran a couple of times as my transfer case was shot. There wasn't any parking on the skid pan when I went as that was the pre-stage area for the cruise sessions - and it gets seriously booked up. I waited for like 2 hours for a 10 minute cruise session. The garages are definately worth it if you're into cruising. The straight up racing was alright, but with a 2wd GTR no fun. Last year weren't that many imports - mainly big blown v8's everywhere. but they were really nice machinery. Also, watch out for hoons that put their cars into the walls. The day I went 2-3 got totalled. These guys in big muscle don't realise that their cars don't turn that well - esp when doing a burn out. DOH! It was fun for me, but not nearly as good as real track time where you can really put the foot down into a corner.

Use the search for "ATTESSA": http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/At...l=attessa+codes Good hints in there. Best to check the error code and fill the resevoir with fluid - but you have to do that with the car running to get the level right.

I'm another R33 GTR V-Spec owner that drives mine to work every day. I adjust my travel times to miss peak traffic as I have a dual plate clutch and that's no fun crawling in traffic. I went downtown (sydney) the other day and was stuck in 15 km of 1-2 gear traffic all the way for 1 1/2 hours. That was a pain! So the question really is what kind of daily communiting will you do? If it is sitting in traffic all day, then I'd heed the recommendation and get a daily commuter sh!t box. If your commute isn't that bad then go for a GTR - but have plans for alternate transportation when you need to work on it. The reality is that the GTR can be a daily commuter, esp if you leave it stock. But how many of us do that. Mine was pretty modified when I bought it and I've done further mods (not to the engine but drive train and suspension). When you do those mods you will want to take your time and get it right. Each time I do a major upgrade, it seems my car is off the road for at least 2-3 weeks. I bought my car just over a year ago and it is a very clean and tidy example with a moderate amount of modification (266kw). In this last year, I've invested (that's what I tell my wife) 7.5k in drive train fixes, about 1k in tuning and its still not right, another 2k in suspension upgrade, and then 1.5k in tyres, oil cooler, gauges, and maintenance. Oh, and also about 1+k on stereo upgrade but that was "want" not so much needed upgrade. So I share this just so that you know some of the potential costs. So, if you are going to get a basically a stock GTR and leave it that way and can put up with the minor stuff such as heat in the cabin and such then go for it. I guess the other question that I have to ask, is why you want a GTR? They are fantastic cars and a real showpiece of technology given their age. But in stock form, you will not be as fast as a modern Evo or maybe even an STI. I know that is heresy coming from a Skyline owner on a skyline board, but lets face it our cars are at least 10 years old. You will have the wear and tear from 10 years, and although the GTR is a great feat of engineering it is still 10 years old. Also, nobody - NOBODY buys a GTR to go easy on it. Expect there to be real wear from a high performance car - even in stock form. The chassis of the GTR is proven strong as, but expect parts such as engine, drive train and suspension to show signs of age - and budget accordingly. Food for thought. I'm happy to share more if you like. I love my car and take great pride that I'm making it custom built for my needs and the way I want things done.

My GTR is outputting about 266KW and my advice is to find one that you like - don't try to run without it. I have a just jap unit that is like the giant alum coke can across the top of the valve cover. The first time I took my car out to the track, I didn't have one. After about 5 minutes of full on track time where the boost is above 1 bar I started to see smoke coming from the engine bay. It was the blow by from my breather. Above 1 Bar RB's will get oil spray mixed in with the breather so you really need the catch can if you are going to do any track work. If you are just going to do 1/4's and street driving, maybe you don't need it so much.

I bought the replacement parts through Nissan. They had to send it from Japan and the parts were pretty dear! It was $500 for the replacement plates, clutch disks and ends. It might be cheaper if you have a local shop re-pad the plates if they are in good shape. Then you have the cost of pulling the transmission too. I ended up having to do a clutch too (my unit had stress fractures throughout) as well as having the internals of the transfer case be shot. They had gotten so hot that they were blue. Now, my experience was worst than most as mine gtr was broken from the day I bought it. But like any big job expect to find more stuff that needs to be done while you are in there.

Count me in too. Please PM me the details and I'll send you my shipping address.

The shop confirmed today that I seem to have 4.30 rear and 4.11 front - wow that's bad! So going to have to decide which route to go. I'd like to go the 4.30 in front but a) they have to find a source for the gears as they are rare for the GTR's and b) costs twice as much. hmmm.... Well, wanted to let you fellas know what's up with the drivetrain issue.

Camber isn't adjustable on the stock suspension. You can get adjustable bushes and arms as after market parts, but then technically you'd need to get it engineered to be fully road legal. The R33's really don't seem to have many good options for front camber adjustment. At least not as many options as the 32's. I found that if you have too much camber, then it is probably the ride height makeing the camber go too much. It does seem odd that the camber is so differient right to left.

Does your gearbox vibrate under stress or just high revs? When you go up a big hill without reving it up but put it under load does it do it then? If your GTR is built up or the clutch is getting old you could be feeling the clutch slip under full power conditions. Remember that your car makes peak power at high revs so could be that your clutch is on the way out. It could also be that you are getting something in the drivetrain or motor transferring through the transmission. If it is a really bad vibration, I'd take it into a good shop or find someone on the boards here that can advise you. You'd hate to have something let go at those high revs. Not too sure about the clunk sound. Before I changed the suspension on my 33 GTR it would lift a tyre on a violent hard turn - but that isn't bouncing. Could be a combination of worn pinapples, on power and hard turn - the rear diff cradle would bounce due to the pinapples and doing this while on power and hard turning would cause it to bounce as the power / traction works. Again, if you plan to do any performance driving with the car, I'd have a shop look at it. rds

UPDATE: The shop had an interesting thought. Are my diff's the same ratio? I know my motor has been replaced so could the front diff be a differient ratio? If they were then maybe that's why the box was stuffed in the first place. They are going to do a test @ 50/50 on the Dyno to see if the ratios are the same. God I hope they are. Also I took it for a drive for about 80 k's sunday. It drives fine at speed - no significant vibration. There is a little vibration at 60 kph cruise but that's the only spot it seems to do it on cruise. Had it up to 110 yesterday and was smooth as at that speed. It seems to have dissapated to about 1/2 as bad as when I first picked up the car. So maybe it is just a stiff front drive shaft getting worked in with power for the first time. Anyways, hopefully the shop can check it out and tell me if it is OK. Thanks for the input guys.

Dash gauge works fine, reads just a little of the bottom when you take off. If you take off hard it does give a but more, but never above 1/2 way. The front diff previously was found to be dry. I opened it up but found that it wasn't worn too bad. I didn't find any noticeable scratches or anything in the teeth. Maybe there was an odd wear pattern put on it and now that there is power going to the front it could be causing a vibration. I'm going to take it for a bit of a cruise now and see how it goes. thanks guys, keep the ideas coming.

yeah, the transfer has never been right. The plates were stuffed and the housing and shaft. Got blue hot. Ended up replacing all the inners. drove it to the mall just now and the rear diff is so stiff it is acting like a locked diff. Around tight full lock turn the car lurches as the rears lock up. It's never done that before.

Hey guys, I just had some work done on my R33 GTR. I had the transfer case totally rebuilt and ended up having to replace the clutch and flywheel as the old ones were stuffed. Both pressure plate and flywheel had stress fracture cracks throughout so it was unsafe. I replaced them with an OS Giken Twin plate and on their recommendation do the pull to push conversion which gives the pedal a much more progressive engagement feel. I must say it's pretty good for an 800 ps rated clutch! ( I went with the "C" model). Anyways, I got the car back last night. When I accellerate hard there is a vibration somewhere on the car as you can feel it throughout the whole car. It is only a slight vibration but definately noticable. It is worst up to about 60 kph where it then smooths out. It primarily does it on acceleration as I can cruise all the way up to freeway speeds without noticing it. The shop did notice that my front shafts were very stiff as I don't think the front Atessa has been working for quite some time. This is the first time it has worked since I've owned the car (about 1 year). The shop and I agreed I'll drive it today and tomorrow and see if it is just the drive train needing to loosen up. Any ideas of what else I should check? Appreciate the input!

Thanks folks. Great cars, great cruise (exc being pulled over for the RBT and loosing my way cause I've never been to one of these), great pizza, great people. There were 4 R33 GTR's last night. I've only seen that many together at a car show! Too bad next week operation transfer case begins so the GTR will be off the road for a bit. Hopefully be ready in time for the next hills gt. cyas.

Yeah, well I spoke to the blokes with the TommyK and the Nur:II. The Nur was a NurNOT as it was just badges put on a V-SpecII. The TommyK was real though. All the detail on it was amazing! It is too bad that they can't save the foot mashing for the track. Agreed, most of us can do a big burn out too - so what is the point. When I told them I save the tyre spinning for the track in GD2ILA and they couldn't believe me. What's the point if you loose your license or worse if the police use the hoon law to take your car for 3 months!

Oh yeah, almost forgot to upload that picture. I call it "Lonely Lancer"

Here's a few more photos from today. Great to see and meet all ya folks!

2nd post yeah was an excellent run. Hey Doof, maybe we can just run a line from my exhaust into your petrol tank - like a mid-air refueling rig. Hehe lol!

Hey there folks, I'm planning on joining up now too. See ya in a couple of hours.

Hey folks Thanks for the great day! 266.6 KW GTR stuck in GTST mode! (can't wait for the weather to warm up so I can fix my xfer case).

Hey folks, should see you there some time after about 9 am. Hmm, photos aye, I guess I better stop by the car wash on the way.

I might be coming and I have Greddy Type S in my 33 GTR. Happy to give you a ride in it.

I think the name of the pie shop on Macquarie pass is Robertson Pies - nice place!

Boy, I'm going to have to wash the car before I go out again. It's so dirty and I didn't expect to be spotted just catching lunch at maccas!

Do you have the splash/dust guard that goes under the front of the car underneath in front of the engine?